Rusty Nuts

I remember the 1977 one, I serviced the Subaru 4wd driven by Yoshi Takaoka and Nori Koseki when it arrived in Sydney, I also was Yoshi Takaoka's service crew for the 1977 and 1978 Southern Cross Rallies, we built the cars at the North Ryde Headquarters of Subaru Australia. The distance covered by this car was over 30,000km. From memory we came 19th in a field of 70 cars there was 25 DNF's. The only Australian built car to finish was a Torana in 26th. A Datto 180B SSS beat us by one place.

Although there are others who have done the conversion who have not used a restrictor. But I think they used a smaller diameter feed line. IMHO because I have tapped off a feed with a restrictor in the circuit above it the pressure would be right but perhaps the volume may be larger, which I figured wouldn't matter because there is restriction in the VCT valve itself.

Its not 1950 mate, this sort of logic went out with old flexible cast iron cranks, today's oil is thinner and far better, Fifty years ago, "loose is fast" was a common belief. A low-viscosity oil will be squeezed over a greater area of the bearing surface when there is a tighter clearance. I built my 30 with main clearance of 0.038 and conrods 0.025. I would not go any where near Nissans max oil clearance. I had my crank linished not ground so had less control over clearances.

I would attempt this method, vacuum doesn't need to be empty. just cut up a pair of the girlfriends/wifes pantyhose and use as a filter in the hose (vacuum hose not small hose)

Agree with GTSBoy ,Nizmo Man just got lucky I reckon. This is what I found in an engine that came in for repair.

All good, 13mm 12 point.

I'm having a rum induced brain fart, just got a call from a mate who asked " what size socket are the 12 point nuts that come with RB25 ARP head stud kits. My bad memory is saying 1/2" 12 point, or is it 13mm 12 point, somebody help me i'm standing here looking stupid.

BTW stick with metric measurements mixing in imperial conversions will do your head in (and mine)

I used genuine Nissan bearings figured out the correct size then installed and checked clearance with plastigage. also have nitto oil pump drive, N1 pump and great oil pressure.

I used clearances as stated by the factory (after all they built it first) here is RB30 manual page

All good mate happy to help.

Neo doesn't need restrictor so no for mine, but earlier models do need restrictor

1/16 NPT male-AN4 Turbosmart fitting used loctite to seal. Yes got the hose from ENZED can't remember how much but was less than $30.

Its been running for a year, works perfectly. This method over 6mm of aluminium to thread through, just had to buy a new slim tap holder as mine was old and gigantic. This method the oil is directed exactly where the gallery leads to anyway. See picture 2 I aimed the drill hole at the centre of the gallery plug.

apparently I am blowing smoke out of my arse, rbs30 started the post then lost interest. Hope it helps somebody out there

The external feed line is neat and tidy.

I did mine differently.Used a long jobbing drill, removed some of the deck for access. This way plenty of meat for the thread to grip

Plastic belt covers, prepare by polishing with fine steel wool soaked in thinner, then multiple thin coats of matt black auto rattle can paint

DO everything myself, the block is epoxy gloss black, multiple thin coats gives best finish.

No, the part numbers are all different, Nissan doesn't allocate different part numbers for matching parts.

After a very thorough degreasing, I scrub the valve covers with thinners using very fine steel wool and when dry apply a light coat of rattle can top coat and follow with two more light coats allowing about an hour between coats. Dulon auto paint used. Still unmarked after a year in the car.

I'm happy to help you mate, but I think Griffin is keen to sell his block so PM him and get a price. Any problems PM me and I will help you.

BTW a RB30 block weighs 70kg if you need a freight weight.

If you are running a 94mm crank throw what is the piston compression height and rod length. Asked a couple of mates and consensus was you can't remove 4mm from deck without hitting a cylinder parting. Apart from the proximity of the water gallery running just below the deck on exhaust side.

Absolutely. When I built my 30/25 I had the mains checked for line boring and my guy said not worth it the block was straight. The crank was also only linished and also checked out straight, the bores still showed the original hone marks top to bottom. The engine had travelled 150,000 km, and from talking to other builders this is not uncommon with these blocks. they were obviously very well cast and machined using excellent materials.