GeeTR

I think my browsers farked... All i get from OP is... If that, in fact is your thread then all I say is.... Hey dood! How are you? Fantastic, hows Jane? Serious? Phhfft, she'll come round.. Oh REALLY? Well f_ck that, she'll GET OK with that, you just gota work on her. You reckon? Hrrrm,,, *thinks* yah, i was thinking the same thing. You better let it cool off.. then try again... Be-archs love that.. gota be slow though. Speaking of slow, hows your Gramp's?.. bullSh_te, i thought he was over that? *shuffle* dood, im feeling for you, serious. Still? havent they tried telling him that thats just a function of his desease?.. oh rly? hrrm.. well dood, what ever he says about me is false. WHAT? You better be kidding, how possibally could i be a time traveler?..tru, tru but seriou.... u aint telling ne one.. *BANG* *RIP, TEAAR, SLIDE, MUFFLE, SHUT* Hahaha, didnt put up much of a fight eh, wots GrandPop going to do now... sluzza, to the landfill for you Hookie. *STARTLED* wait.. how long have you been listening?... SAU? wtf is that?, recording??? ILL FIX YOU TOO *SLAM _ DARKNESS*

Hey Dood, I have no real world experience, but think i could cut down the possibilities. Not sure bout any device like a coil pack having a life time warranty, but I know many people with Split Fires, non have had them fail. Having more then one fail in such a short time span would indicate an issue other then the coil itself. All you've mentioned is the Wolf, are you running 7bar boost? 95% water injection?... anything else that would load a charging device? At the mo, all i can think of, is the dwell settings in your Wolf is killing them. Im aware ppl dick with dwell when using SF's. PS: How are they failing? Do they simple stop firing, and cause a dropped cylinder, or is one being sporadic at certain RPM's? Theres my 2 cents, take it n barter, trade, sell, exploit - what have you cheers

Taken from [ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...69#entry3683469 ] Not that i get off on qouting myself but... (ok.. juzt a little bit) Hey dood, Nature always tries to equalize, from one extreme to another, be it heat or particulates suspended in liquid. So osmosis, or equalization of a concentration through a semi permeable membrane... (tea through a tea bag into hot water, or water through your kidneys, 02 and C02 through aveoli in your lungs) or hot air from one room to another etc. When the cylinder charge burns, some gas leaks past the piston rings into the crankcase, that's called blow by. Clearly engines work cus the pressure in the cylinder is higher above the piston then below is, so the piston moves down. Having pressure from blow by below the piston, in the crankcase then lowers the pressure differential, decreasing performance and causing issues with blowing out seals, dip stick etc etc. The factory setup has a pipe from the cam cover to the intake pipe, then when under boost ingests the blow by, creates a little vacuum under the piston, increasing performance slightly. On the over run, or when you back off the accelerator and the revs are dropping, a small one way valve opens and suck the blow by from the crank case as well. The one way is there, so when on boost, pressurized air doesn't go back into the crank case. People remove the cam cover to intake pipe connection, as older cars have more blow by, and ingesting and burning these "already burnt oily gases" lowers the quality of the in cylinder combustion. This why you see ppl use filters on the cam covers (V8's) and just bleed that blow by to the atmosphere. This is illegal though, as the blow by is technically combustion gases that haven't gone through the cat. Aftermarket, people use a container (oil/air separator) full of stainless steel wool, and route the gases through that, and then have a filter on the oil/air separator (which technically isn't legal either) Keep in mind that in the stock setup, when on the over run, the PCV valve opens and wants to ingest air from the crankcase AND from the stock pipe to the intake pipe. Seeing as there's already vacuum in front of the turbo, and the pipe is "behind" the AFM, the PCV is ingesting air that's ALREADY BEEN METERED by the AFM… so AFR's stay the same, the ECU doesn't get confused. The issue is when people leave pipes open, or what not and the PCV pulls air from effectively a "leak" Hope this makes sense. Search SAU, been covered many times, with lots of pictures and theory how people setup after market setups. Once you know what's going on, make sure your setup, is setup correctly otherwise you'll be stalling etc. Rough outline, hope it helps Michael

Dear OP, The device your referring to can cost as little as $50, plus as you own an RB25DET (This most common form of Skyline propulsion) should give weighting to the fact that quiet possibly, this question may have been answered before on a 6yo forum dealing with Skylines. Entering "oil catch can" into the "search" field, produced 32 pages of results. Sorting by "number of replies" theoretically would show the most popular topics first. SAU should be seen as a library, where you look for info, more so then a Q & A session. I hope I've been of assistance

fapidy fap, shlock shlock Hey Paul, Its called non dialectic grease I believe. Chemtron make a battery grease IE. Its not just electrically conductive property, but its preventing surface oxidization ability, that ppl use it for. Ppl use almost any petroleum product (really, they shouldn't be) looking for the effect. You only need a v.small amount between surfaces to fill micro pits in both surfaces (like heat sink compound) so there shouldn't be enough to run. If your concerned about getting the best connection possible, spend some time with some quality OFC speaker cable, bag of ring terminals. Crimp then solder. Sand all contact points, use vas on the alloy (around, not between surface's) to prevent corrosion and ground every coil pack bolt to the block & head. You'd want a decent grounding kit (not a $100 jap one, just make it all up yourself) - might as well do it all properally my 2 cents

"Electrical plugs are molded of aerospace grade material" Bonus!

Well I'm unfortunately not someone, but my hot tip is this... that if your not hearing the the repeated (from multiple sources) answer you want, then chances are, ppl's results vary, which does occur, life isn't plugNplay. If your tuner is careful (as he should be) a restriction in the return will show its head in a pretty linear and obvious fashion i would think (rail pressure rising over base+boost pressure) Hence.... So give it a go, and let us know

Best... thread... Evvaa! ...after reading that thread though, be sure to search too, as theres a smattering of good info out there.

So many threads bout pumps, im getting dizzy Its not that hard. If you don't want to fiddle, cant use hand tools and want a solution you prolly wont have to think about… ever again, then slap ½ a G on a Nismo bolt in – Done, so simple, you'll forget which pump you have when asked. If you live to tweak, can use hand tools, and don't mind playing around with things, then go the non bolt in option, and stick in your [iNSERT PUMP MODEL HERE] in tank. The pump has NOTHING to do with G forces, fuel gauge etc blah blah. Clearly one needs to mount the pick up sock in the same location as factory… to get the same factory result. This means not using 2nd hand hay twine to tie the pump half way up the cradle support. It means thinking about line flex, material, line runs etc, as to not impact other systems. /end rant haha

^ LoL, you beat me to it. Abu - Nah look, smaller T04's used to be popular on 2L 10+ years ago, exciting stuff. Not everyone wants track worthy response, we live only once, set it up, make some video's of the thing ramping up so we can all smile - ha

50% base increase - interesting

I agree, metal polishing is for monkeys. I spent 40+ hours on a RB26 plenum... never ever again Pictures taken from a post in Craved's Alloy Polishing thread.

Tinted perspex looks trick! Nice result man!

Good damm! And to think i been hacking at my filthy loom for years like a SUCKER!! Why I never even thought of looking for something like this before, I don't know. Thanks Paul!!

Hell yes, apart from having to remove the stench of Junki, seems like you came out Ok! Congrats

^^ Looks the same as a R32. I'll add some pictures of how the pipe runs under the IC dis'arvo, if i remember

Looks fairly spot on. If you had a wide band on it, plus liked to tinker, it could be 2-5 points leaner. (EDIT: by this, I'm not saying its not a good tune; its a great 'safe' tune for a customer. I'm saying if it was mine, or somone that can see live AFR's, then I'd run it closer to the edge, and be wary after filling up / Summer / towing a boat) What you have is pretty safe. Rem, your graph shows a WOT power run, so doesn't show other 'day to day' load cell results.

Could be many things. I would start making sure your TPS produces the correct voltage at idle (foot off throttle) The spec's in the workshop manual for your car, you'll need a multi meter obviously.

This is where someone pips up with "control b00st with the right foots size 13"

^^ Dood, its a done deal if it comes with the dash fitting. I'm 99% sure all AN fit with any other AN. I've used Aeroquips with Speedflows before.

Hydraulic fittings seem just as pricey as the AN stuff often. I would say its a standard BSP fitting, and that you can mo def get a AN adapter for it.

^^ I agree, its just a bearch to do in the first place I was thinking that, but it looked kinda funny. I thought maybe Steve was trying something fancy; so it clears something... or something - ha

Ur a F'n crazy man, your aware of that ya?

40KW is a fair bit - had you noticed the loss since last dyno? As in, has your 'seat of pants' picked up the loss? Was your last dyno sesh on the same dyno? Comparing is bout apples on apples. More info