GeeTR

Yah, I have pondered this as well. Drivers side has BOV's in the way, passengers side vents into my CAI. On top of all that, i don't really like the idea of all the hot air washing around inside my front wheel wells. I also don't really want to massacre my stock inner wheel liners. I'm tempted to place between AC condenser and radiator, to aid when heating the oil up, (don't have to run a oil stat) and also to act as a decent heat sink; surely a 120 cooler will still transfer heat to a 100 radiator. Hrmmm sacrifices....

Seems like the story of the hardworking monkey with the massive tree house, that got perturbed when the the other monkeys said a similarly homey, comfy tree house could be made, a lot smaller, much easier ...it just had to be lived in differently Dude, its all in the tune / use / boost I wouldn't recommend tracking it. Just use it as a fun ( read: handicapped) street car, till you get the cash. If it pops, catch a bus and take a loan LoL

Checked it out. Dyno was playing silly buggers, adding 100kw to some estimates. I think it was ESP's nutbag widebody 3L BNR32 that killed it while getting tuned a weeks ago Saw a certain red, kitted S14a drive past, saw some 380 and 404kw Supra's, Skyline or two. Missed most of it. Surely more people from here checked it out?

Beh, i wouldnt call 90 clicks on a quiet road in a skyline, excessive nor necessarally dangerous, specially from someone that's driven so many quick cars. Wrong speed on the wrong road maybe, but it wouldn't effect my choice to use them in the slightest. Actually driving the car on the road, loads a motor in a totally different way then does a dyno. If your shop cant check and cure your detonation condition at 6000rpm WOT then who can Shitty scenario man, hope you sort it out

Hey Sindre, Get your digi camera in Macro mode onto the seals and let us have a look! Technically, i still had a lot of options with mine. I could have ground out the little press tabs, and pulled the sealed bearing from the unit. In the end, replacing the outside dust seal worked. Cheers

Sorry man, I didn't mean not to acknowledged what you wrote. It explained, in a very clear manor how split pulse design work, and helped immensely in an understanding. How you explain modern designs are far more superior, makes me really think, anything else would be a waste of time... like a carby suck through setup I didn't know other OS AM companies are working on split designs of current popular turbine sections!!??!! ... i need to look around before picking up a non split GT35 Legend

Same as yourself Dale, only my current understanding till corrected. Knock, I believe is a lot like the “flash point” of a material, and is solely heat related. The higher the mean temperature of the turbulent combustion mix, the higher the chance of an uncontrolled, unregulated ignition, from either a hot source like a incorrect spark plug, hot exhaust valve, carbon deposit etc. The fact its unregulated in itself mean shite, the real issue is that the spark plug is STILL going fire as well… So it’s the resultant collision of the two pressure differential fronts that causes the massive spike. Proper knock events cause quiet severe spiking in cylinder pressures, nothing like the almost linear rise that adding more fuel brings ( through boost, better efficiency etc) This is why, im a big believer that as long as a motor doesn’t det, you can take a particular combo a LONG way. You better believe the BIG power stock motors you see around have very good tuning, and never det. Its why I believe, all things being equal, Mafia’s motor will live for ever in this state, and will not bend a rod. ( slong as that lecky water pump never dies) Det being an “explosion” is an interesting term. What’s classed as an “explosion” any way. When is a super rapid burn (and resultant increase in pressure from expansion) an explosion? I would think its purely a pressure difference over an area or time .. hrmm. Where I would disagree with the “water is purely a cooling agent” blurb, is when its injected pre turbo. In this case, its agreed compression is occurring at almost isothermal levels, that is, with out temp increase. As the state change is occurring here (fine droplets turning into gas) in the compressor covers its self… how could that steam move into the combustion chamber and THEN cool components down? True, it could be overall the air moving past the inlet valve is cooler then without WI, but… its something I cant get my head around. The state change, the occurrence that’s actually absorbing heat, is occurring a long way out from the combustion chamber… What I believe is going on, is that the fuel/water/air charge is proving harder to det due to the distance the water puts the fuel molecules apart. The definition of chain reaction, is just that, a reaction in a 3 dimensional pattern. The water stops a super hot point from pre igniting the mixture. Proof? Proof is that most proper 30% WI setups require hardcore CDI to even have a chance of igniting the mixtures in a controller fashion. As for WI being an “add on” as Dale and Disco have mentioned, its like saying a correctly shaped head design (that tries to prevent hot spots) being a tacked on design consideration! Disco talks like WI is there to cure a det issue only, and that really, something like split pulse m.fold should net better over results. I would like to think one could use ALL of these things in an effort to make power, as they are all effecting very different parts of the combustion or fuel -> torque process. Me thinks, you spend all this cash on good components, to help you rev, move air and make power.. but for fear of detonation, you strengthen components to crazy levels (copper head gaskets?!?) and then retard ignition and over fuel up top to stop it from exploding… People use’d to turbo carby OR EFI a rotary.. not both for a while, thinking EFI comparable to forced induction…. Now look at things. What im saying, is why cant you do EVERYTHING you know to make power, turbo’s EFI, tricky cams, split pulse m.fold, good fuel, silly CAI’s.. and then in the end, use water to allow one to wait till that slug almost goes TDC until you fire the spark plug in a mixture bordering on NA ratio worthy I'm not shy to admit, this thread is giving me a automotive Tech hard on, keep the intelligent thoughts coming! - M

I wondered what you were leading up to.... Nice write up!

Well kids, newest installment. Iv used some 800 wet&dry and sanded the seal down 3mm, iv then wrapped a rod ( the same diam as the spindle) in W&D and sanded the inside contact surface to relieve the tightness on the inside. Lubed it all, pressed it in and manually moving the throttle plates gives the same amount of tension as the un modified ones! Dummied it all up, and Bingo, a lot less throttle peddle tension. Side Note: There still was a lot of tension, and i found one of the rose jointed ends on the rods connecting to each spindle was seized. Carby cleaner and soaking in automotive mineral oil for 48h did little. Tonight i played with the movement a little and noticed the socket was only grabbing the sphere in one plane of movement... like it was "oval" shaped A dozen gentle smacks with a hammer has the sphere moving fine again! So Note to rem, if your rose joint is grabbing, make sure the socket hasn't distorted out of shape Once my POS Datsun has fired back up, i will finally know if this has curred my leak Hope this helps someone else Mods: Maybe move this to the Maintenance section

Buy my stock GTR top feed rail and reg

Hahah, zactly the elite engineering speak im after hahah Cheers

Yah nah fair nuff man. Thing is, you could inadvertently hurt output I know a few ppl who have "race prepped" their car, only to have it fudge out on the day. Wire tidying, ECU resetting etc hehehe. Most things one would check, AFM, O2 sensor, ECU reset etc, might richen it; and you cant really know without a wide band up its arse. Just rock up, and spit a figure Hope theres some cool machines at Autotech this w/e

Dyno day eh? yah man, ill try and get along. They always good. Though last streeet Cruise one was mostly stock falcons and commo's

What im trying to say, is that trying a few tricks that could hurt your motor, for a few KW's seems weird. Wouldn't you rather just rock up, spit out a number, then be able to compare your "seat of the pants" feeling with a real KW number, rather then temporarily juicing the figures? Toluene in the tank, adjusted CAS, more pressure in your tyres, frozen ice packs on your intake plumbing, a forced "boost spike", a 50 note to the dyno operator to tweak the ambient values, could all help you make some more power.

Slike asking your Doctor to dodgey your cholesterol test results... or swap the blood sample with the Sven standing next to you... ... they might be good on the day, buh your still going to die in a sweaty heap on the 400 sidewalk one day

Mappassi's are well known to pulsate the pressure a little.. or a lot >> http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...998&hl=SARD Rofl - nice. Hey are you using the 040 or 044. As with TO4GTR's comment below..... Are yall saying its just the 040 that gets noisy when hot? As I thought both models were quiet similar bar, mesh and one way valve? I thought the noise was a direct result of cavitation when the fuel gets hot. I figured the bubbles found it easier to make their way to the intake from the return, or maybe just the extreme vacuum and turbulence over the rough threaded fitting caused it. If the 044 doesn’t get as noisy as the 040, read: doesn’t cavitate as much, there must be a reason. Are more people fitting the stock sock to 044’s? *ponders*

*Drooools*

Put the crack pipe down Magine a box welded around a normal air->air IC, and then water pumped through that box, through and around the fins, and then to a radiator(s) [ Separate to the engine radiator clearly] Your just replacing the air that was moving through the air->air cooler fins, absorbing heat, with water... which then releases its heat to the air, when it gets to the little radiators

hence

Hey there, Are you sure its leaning out? I would stick a fuel pressure gauge on a T piece and check base pressure, and that its indeedally dropping up top. Cheers

Older Liberty's have em, many AM companies sell em. Popular in rota drag circles, and with horsepower dyno queens. Why you say stupid? They have their place for sure. Can keep intake tracks a lot shorter; improve throttle response etc, then mount the radiators for it where ever you want. The setup has a buffer too, so you don't get the same level of heat soak, that air->air IC has in stand still traffic. Happy BirthDay Shell

Bump Bump, in the night, i dropped my prices, my still tight???

Course, but I find Skyline's are engineered in such a way, rarely do we have to Often you'll find the buzzNuts, are FORCED to use alternatives to keep those things in high states of tune Bloody Rota's Correct, the term evades me ATM, if i get some time, might dig up old posts from AusRotary, US RX7, and Mustang forums. Maybe not more "efficient", as you don't get the complete state change from mist to vapor occurring in the combustion chamber, but the added compressor flow and safety, of not needing a electric pump, off sets this. (Theres a huge amount of information out there, one must just look) Not a wives tale, people have seen pitting of the compressor wheel... but on setups that consist of the fore mentioned, "Washed bottle and a garden sprayer nozzle" The examples i gave above use proper stainless, adjustable flow rate, misters, that use boost pressure in one side, and a water feed in the other. The water hits a metal cone at speed and gets atomized by the surrounding boost pressure, 8µm is the desired water droplet size (80's F1 teams somehow managed to decrease the size of the droplet by surrounding it in a skin of race fuel) Iv heard about many pre turbo setups run for 6 years with no wheel damage. People will have undoubtedly heard how the steaming effect almost nullifies seal / bore wear, and prevents carbon deposits, which themselves can glow red and cause detonation. Long live WI! Michael

Iv seen manifolds and turbines that are bright pink almost every time they see WOT (and no, not overally rich tune) It takes 600c to make mild steel dull red i believe. Read up on the types of temps people see when tunning via EGT, you'll be amazed. - M