CanberraR33

I haven't seen any R34s yet. Actually I havent seen any R33s on the road either! I saw a dude in a Supra cruising through Amersham this morning with the stereo up and the subs pumping! I wish I had my car here!!! :burnout:

Here's a few pics of them. I spoke to the dealer yesterday. Apparently they were stolen from Japan and got picked up by the Police here in England. The dealer bought them from a Police auction. They are stock as by the way! http://www.pbase.com/jredgrove/skylines_uk

That was my point! However in England there is a big difference between rich and poor, and I am told some fairly affluent people drive Skylines here! Thing is they are damn quick cars when you are racing 2 litre golfs off the lights!

I am staying in London at the moment and I saw a dealer that sells Skylines! He has two R33 GTRs in there for £20,000! I am waiting till they open to have a look at them! How anyone here could afford to drive one is beyond me. Petrol cost 80p a litre! Cheers, James.

Just like r31 chick, my car is 100% legal. Everytime I perform a modification I check first with Police traffic operations and Dickson Motor Registry (kinda like the RTA in Canberra). I also use the ADRs as a guide. You have to remember that the laws are there to protect you and others! You can still have an awesome car that is legal! If you do want to build a crazy "show car" then make it a "trailor bitch" and don't register it or drive it on the road. Simple as that.

I think it all comes back to how lazy you are! If you can you should always go easy on the car for the last 10 mins or so to let everything cool down. However, if you're like me and do a lot of stop/start driving a TT is good. After a track session I do a couple of cool down laps and then let the car idle for 10 to 15 mins with the bonnet open. Just my 2cents! Cheers, James.

I know it's been asked before, I did a search. But I couldn't find the answer I was looking for. My clutch is now slipping, and every time I go for a drive all I can smell is burning clutch! I have a stock R33. I want to get more power out of it over time, but for now it's stock. I want a clutch that allows me to drive normaly (not the whole "on/off" thing) but withstand a few more burnouts and draging then the standard clutch. Mine got stuffed the other night when a line lock went wrong and the clutch smoked instead of the tyres! Justjap are advertising a "performance clutch" for around $500. Does anyone know much about that?

I have a HKS type 1 that that. You can either set a time (up to 10 mins) or you can put it on auto and it works it out for you based on revs, speed and time of journey. It also has a shift light and a few g-tech type functions and a handy low battery warning. Good value for about $300 as a shift light costs around that anyway!

JimX: Nankangs I had them once on my last car, NEVER again! On my last car (2001 Astra (FWD)) I found the best all round tyre (particularly in the wet) were GoodYear Eagle F1s. The only problem is they won't come in your width (or mine!). I have Falken Ziex front and back on 18s and I think they are good in the dry but pretty average in the wet. I have 235s on the front and 265s on the back. Next time I'll try the Dunlop FM901s that Duncan mentioned.

Mine is leaking oil from around the face. I rang autobahn and got the number of the wholesaler. They told me it would cost too much to fix and just buy a new one. I'm not complaining too much, I bought it broken for $10 with bezel (spelling) and bracket. The bezel (spelling) and the mounting bracket are worth about $80! I'm just going to salvage those and get a new gauge!

I got told this on an AAMI defensive course a few years ago. I run my 18s at 40psi front and 38psi rear. I think my stockies (16s) were on about 35psi but they have been in my shed for a while!

It's a little box behind the dash that moves where the air goes to, i.e. floor, face or windscreen. I got mine replaced by an airconditioning place and it cost me $80. The box cost $20 from Nissan so if you can find it and do it yourself it wouldn't cost too much. It's bloody annoying and embarising every time people get in your car!!

I just tried taking a photo but the flash reflected too much! I'll try again in day light!

Not a good idea to remove an airbag wheel. It's there for your protection. Besides, removing it is a breach of the ADRs! I was always very anti ABS till I went to the BMW factory in Munich, Germany. ABS does take longer to stop... in a straight line. But if you are braking hard into a corner or whilst swerving ABS will mean you can keep control more easily and alow you to stop quicker. It can take a bit of getting use to. You need to to hit the brake pedal hard and then not back off or ABS cuts out and you will lock it up. It can be a bit disconcerting as the brake pedal "pulses" when ABS is working. My Skyline doesn't have ABS but my previous car did.

Jay: I still need you to take me for a spin in your car to see how it goes with a few mods! :burnout:

1991 N13 Pulsar "Sports" 2001 TS Holden Astra, 17s and King Springs. Handled well!

whatsisname: Yeah I want to get an Optima next time round. I have heard a lot of good things about them! Just need the $$$ to spend on a battery! Jay: The battery I got is an "AcDelco Sealed Maintenance Free" (430CCA, 45AH, 80RC)

I got a 100% sealed battery, maintainance free, which cost me $130. Jay, I'll check size etc. for you. I just went to the battery factory in Fyshwick and they changed the terminal connectors to larger ones for me. I needed a new battery because after 5 mins of stereo the car wouldn't start!

According to the ADRs they are illegal from memory. But then a lot of things are! I wouldn't want to have a set of wheels that didn't have an offset that would clear the callipers. But for that extra little bit of clearance it would be alright. I had spacers on the front wheels on my previous car (2001 Holden Astra). The back wheels (without spacers sat on the studs and the front sat nicely on the spacers. The spacers came with the wheels from Tempe Tyres.

I am sure a lot of you may already know this, but for the benefit of anyone who doesn't (I didn't till yesterday): As Skylines have batteries in the boot, they must either be a sealed battery or have an external vent out of the car. Apparently if you get a power surge the battery vents producing a highly flamable gas. I got a new battery yesterday and the guy in the battery shop was shocked that my car had an unsealed battery and no external vent! He said it is highly illegal. I have also spoken to someone else with a skyline (eliteR33) who told me that it has become one of the things the Police are cracking down on imports. I am fairly sure if you have a sealed battery it will say sealed on it. If in doubt I suggest you get someone who knows the difference to check it out. The benefit, my new battery is maintainance free, so I don't have to pull it out to check the water all the time!

My wheels clear my front calipers at the front by about 2 or 3 mm. I haven't had any problems, but I keep thinking I might give some spacers a go.

Are they still making the R34 or has that finished?

I guess it's because, to quote one of my mates "skylines stick out like dog's balls!"

has anyone got any links or pics of the currently released V35 GT? I wana know what they look like!