silviaz

Dunno how I messed this up but my steering wheel drives crooked now lol. I thought these things were supposed to be clumsy proof haha.

Guess so it doesn't have play / move around.

Am I reading this correctly? It's showing the steering wheel nut is only 39nm, which seems quite low. i thought it would be tighter. The sump plug max torque is 39nm which isn't tight.

Nvm, I misread the post.

Ah ok, no worries. I'll take the risk and hopefully if I need to reset it that it's not a pain in the ass.

Ah right, thanks for that. What about the above, whether the airbag light will likely show after i put the steering wheel on, if the airbag has previously been is disconnected and the battery is connected but the ignition is off? I guess an easier way to frame the question is, if I do the whole procedure with my battery connected but the ignition off the whole time whether it should show the airabag light?

Do you know if I have my steering wheel disconnected or a week (airbag light will show if I put ignition on) or so if the airbag reset procedure will be harder to do? I did a search on the forum, and seems to be the case. At least with mine since I have an immobiliser I noticed the other day if I put the key on the on position in a short amount of time the alarm chirp, which also might cause me issues. Lastly, will the airbag light show if I connect the battery terminal with the steering wheel disconnected but don't turn on the ignition? Obviously I won't see it if the ignition is off but my question is when I go to put the steering wheel back on if the light will show because I've had my battery connected.

Ah interesting, good to know. Is series 2 the 1999 model and onwards not 1998?

Ah right, cheers.

Correct me if I'm wrong but one thing you didn't take into account was the clockspring as it's not meant to be turned. Or is the idea if the wheel is already turned, we just put the nut back on, and then straighten out the wheel to feed the clockspring wires through? If that's the case, I'm not sure if the clockspring spins as you turn the wheel. I imagine not otherwise all the copper wires would have ripped off the first time the very first time the wheel is turned, but at the same time I don't see it moving because the connectors stay in one place. I'm probably overthinking.

Ah ok, i think i get what you mean. thanks

I guess it doesn't. To confirm, if my steering wheel moves to the left for example, even when i go to put the steering wheel back on it's fine as long as it all lines up, then I don't need to straighten it? I'm having a bit of a hard time visualising it.

But the question is, do we need to release the steering column, wouldn't be easier just to lock it? Yeah I was going to use a paint pen to mark stuff but my concern was when the steering wheel moves, won't my tyres move as well?

Does anyone know for this tutorial why the steering column was released? Shouldn't the steering wheel be locked so when you take the nut off it doesn't move and remains straight?

lol, I get ya.

I heard from multiple people to avoid Carbonetics as the fitment is terrible.

Ah ok, thanks for that. All my jacking points are bent from the previous owners so my main concern wasn't about bending it further, but making sure it doesn't slip like @GTSBoy mentioned, as it is bent.

I've seen 2 post lifts that usually have something like this, not an adapter. Most people don't use adapters from what I've seen (non skylines I guess), would that image below be suitable in your opinion? Otherwise I might have to see an adapter that I can buy. Something like this seems like a good option? https://classiclift.com.au/product/square-shape-rubber-pad-part201106/

A potentially stupid question but if I'm using a hoist I assume for skylines it's fine to put the hoist arms (from a 2 post lift) under the jacking point sills yeah? I looked at some google images but people tend to put it on the edge of the chassis rail and put a block of wood, which is interesting, considering the sills seem to be a popular spot.

First time, he tightened the wrong belt. He didn't check all the belts from memory just checked one and tightened it and still had the same problem. Second time, he fixed "most" of the issue, he tightened the right belt but not enough it seems, it would only squeal for half a second maybe, then I went the third time and he said it was all good and he didn't want to tightened it anymore to not overtighten it. Then it started getting worse again and it went back to squealing for around 5- 10 seconds or so. 4th time I went to a new mechanic who told me that my last mechanic didn't tighten it enough and he fixed it and I haven't had the problem since.

I'm looking to change the led on my cluster, does anyone know why the fuel gauge would stop working? I don't want to run into this issue and mess it up, I guess it's worth unplugging the battery? I wonder if the bulb can be changed without unplugging any of the cables.

I heard rb25 neo engines use a rb26 crank, is this true? I can't find any info on it and the part numbers are different. Makes me wonder for the neo engine since there are less parts, what do you do if the crank is completely stuffed.

Sorry mate I didn't see this. but issue is fixed, went to the local mechanic and turns out my regular mechanic that I visited multiple times didn't tighten the alternator enough. I went to double check and the tension now seems good, not overtight. Not sure how my mechanic missed that and said that it seemed all good to him lol.

Not even possible, unless you have another person but to be honest I thought doing it at the same time was the right idea because it was an even distribution haha

That's what I thought if you wanted the car up high when removing the gearbox for example, so I guess 2 trolley jacks would come in handy to make it easier.