ausdrift

Any other comments or ideas out there?

Yeah, I kinda thought that's probably for when you have a serious clutch on big power.

Thanks all, sorry for the slow follow up; other car related issues have jumped the queue for this. The braided line is just a straight line and that big loop piping is gone (I was surprised to see it when they pulled it out, to be honest) of which the shop annoyingly chose red when the WHOLE engine bay is black. When they did the clutch I got them to fit a Nismo pivot ball also which I bought for $10, 5 years ago. I have fit a Nismo Clutch pedal bracket about 6 months ago as I was getting a squeak that wouldn't quit, so that part of the set up should be ok. The little plastic U on the pedal which I had to keep had split in half and isn't something you can buy, so now part of the mechanism is metal on metal. So, moving forward... * The fluid level is still high (slightly over the high mark) 6 weeks after the clutch being fit, so although I will give it a visual check later, I don't think there is a leak. * I will get under and inspect the rod and mechanisms for wear and anything obvious * I don't think I will have a go bleeding the line. While I've done for brakes before I'm parked up a hill in a carport and cant afford to f**k something up where I cant limp to a workshop. * Assuming nothing is obviously wrong I might just bite the bullet and have a shop replace the slave and master. This way everything along the line is new and there should be no reason for any malfunction. Don't want to but I'm getting tired of the age related issues I'm getting with this car. Just lastly though, a crack in the pivot socket; this would be inside the clutch housing isn't it, and therefore not something that can be easily looked at, right? Lets hope its not that. Hoping to get to that over Easter

OK, so I'm thinking of replacing my 20 year old slave on my ECR33 and while I was planning to just go the standard Nissan part. I did wonder about any possible benefits of getting a big bore unit fit instead though. The shop that fit my clutch said that while it would reduce pedal strength needed to use the clutch, they are hard to adjust and so not worth it (I only get a heavy duty upgrade of clutch at the time). What's your experience? Worth it or don't bother?

Wow, what way to get panties in twists. We're not reporting to NASA on this, so getting ballpark kms per tank figures isn't going to set the world on fire

Nice Disney pics. I lived about a 10 minute drive from there so have been to both parks many times. A few details in the pics I've never noticed though, so that's cool. Pity they area both permanently crowded.

The tuner did say that although he put in numbers for cold start he said should be fine (it was a heatwave at the time and he wasn't able to do a cold start), that I could contact him in colder months if there was an issue. That said, I don't think this is it as it happened suddenly last week and has persisted, which suggests its something failing. And thanks for the link Sklyn, that's the air regulator I was talking about, so this will be an Easter task for me, regardless of whether this is the cure. Thanks. And bingo, ECR33 Series 2 running a Power FC

Ok, so as of Tuesday last week I've now got an idle issue and despite searching the forums I'm not quite sure the cause, so am hoping for some imput and ideas. The Problem What will happen is when I start the car (typically from cold) it will be ok for a minute or so, then anytime I'm in neutral the idle will be hunting, going down as low as 200 and up to around 800, like a pendulum. If I'm driving with higher revs when I get into neutral the drop and swing of revs will be harder and it will be on the verge of stalling. It will eventually close the range of revs until it gets to the 800 idle the car is set at. The longer I drive it the less it will hunt until eventually, say after 10 mins of city driving it will idle normally. Also, using AC or brakes doesn't appear to affect this issue. Some specs R33 GTST bigger turbo, 740cc injector, FMIC, exhaust, Z32 AFM, Walbro fuel pump and a Tune in December. All of these parts were bought and fitted new within the last year. In addition here are some common things to check regarding a poor idle that I've already considered. - AFM poor soldering (unlikely as is a new unit) - Vacuum/ IC piping - checked and were ok, and many have been replaced with silicon anyway - ACC clean - done - Fuel filter - replaced - Plugs - 1 month old - O2 sensor - 9 months old - Coil packs - original, but are in good condition (and I don't think this issue relates to them anyway) - Water temp sensor - original What I think It might be Seeing as my problem seems to be the regulation of air while the throttle body is closed, I'm thinking it could well be part of the Idle Air Control Valve system that is causing this. From what I can see there are two main parts, the popular one that people seem to talk about being the ACC valve. While I have cleaned the IAA unit (That's the wad hanging off the inlet manifold that contains the ACC, the cylinder hanging off the side) has anyone heard of that ACC unit being faulty or failing? Could it be a case of swapping this out? The other suspicion I have is that it might have to do with the Air Regulator, which is the unit located below the IAA unit and connected by a vacuum hose (which continues back into the inlet plenum). According to the manual the air regulator is fully open below 20 degrees, half closed above 20 degrees and fully closed at above 60 degrees of water temp. This would seem to correspond to the times in operation that I will typically have this problem. Has anyone had this unit fail at all, or could it be cleaned back to good health? And aside from this, is there anything that I may have missed which fits the symptoms of my idle problem? Ok, thanks all

Jeeeeeeeeeeezzzz, that's good

I ended up checking all the various connection points on the wiring, resoldering/crimping and now it works fine.

I guess ill just F around with the nozzle then...

The tuner I used is very reputable, and I did emphasis the fact that its a daily and I wanted a smooth reliable driving experience, so I assumed he would have made it good down low too. On the daily work grind there is little opportunity to get on boost, so I'm almost always driving relatively conservatively. Hence my confusion...

If you were to state your vehicle, then using "per tank" is fine as its consistent. But ok, lets simplify this then by doing L/100 Which in my case is a shocking 18L/100kms and that's largely putting to and from work. I think I have to have a word with my tuner as although I have Nismo 740cc injectors, Z32 AFM etc, economy should be much better than that...

So having got a respectable amount of engine work done I've now noticed that my previously poor fuel economy has managed to get even worse. And I naively thought it would get better with a tune... So, I thought I'd put it out there to find out if others enjoy just as poor economy as a result of daily driving your modified Skyline. Car - ECR33 Skyline Power - 235rwkw, 430 N/m Kms to a tank - 300 max Go!

I've had this issue on and off for a while now, so I thought I would throw it out there to see if its a common Skyline issue or if its just my R33 Often when filling up with fuel I will have the nozzle click and stop flowing fuel when the tank is not full. I will then have to endure either constant clicking and stopping of fuel flow, or Ill have to fill the tank with such low fuel flow/pressure that it takes a long time to complete. Does this happen to you? Anyone know how to fix it?

Same problem, I could smell strongly fuel after filling the tank up (after stopping). I did what others above did. I reopened the tank up and carefully this time screwed it on being sure not to force it (my new rubber ring had a small tear in it, no doubt due to my first attempt). I also opened the fuel cap this time and yes, managed to screw it on with firm hand pressure and only using a hammer to tighten the last bit. Now there is no fuel smell and I get that pressure release noise when I open the fuel cap after driving. Before I had lost that, so a good indication that everything is sealed now.

Been continuing my splits install today and it has taken a long time. A few tips that I have learned the hard way... Don't bother trying to make thicker speakers fit in the original location; just make new mounts out of MDF Sound deaden while you have the doors apart. It takes time but the improved sound quality is worth the time/cost The thread size for the screws which hold the speaker in place are 12G For the door wiring plugs, Yes, they are a bitch to thread new wires through, but not impossible, so persevere with it. The plug is made up of a male and female part, the female part hangs onto the body of the car while the male will pull out. Use the correct size spanner (10?) to undo the single bolt and if you have on a racheting spanner makes this much faster. Keep undoing until finally you can pull out the male part of the plug. It is a little awkward to reach, but when you get in there not so hard as the plastic surround is mated to a rubber backing, so there is some flexibility and movement to it all. Then you can go ahead and drill out the space inside to thread the new wire through and install.

It did have a braided line installed and new fluid at the time of installation, and the clutch action itself is otherwise fine... And yep, very little more thread left on the rod so soon I would run out of rod to adjust the nut onto

In what situations would you need to replace the clutch master cylinder? I just ask this as I have a few imperfections in my clutch use/pedal that I'm hoping to iron out. I had the clutch replaced recently for a heavy duty one and while the clutch works fine, I've had to adjust the nut on the master cylinder rod out to almost nothing left now to get it to work without sticking. It almost feels like it slowly, over the month its been in, had needed to be adjusted more and more, little by little (ive adjusted it numerous times to get it acceptable) to keep it in the sweet zone (the clutch maker suggested only 1 turn would do it) Also recently the clutch pedal sometimes gets a strange feel to it. Hard to describe, almost like it wants to stick to my foot when I release it. Im probably going to have a quick look on the WE as ill be installing other stuff, but was hoping for any heads up o my situation, and could it be related to the master cylinder itself? thanks

Should get around to checking this tomorrow. Hopefully its all obvious

Ahh Tokyo, my Turf. Odaiba is quite a place, really different than the 'mainland'

Oh, and just for context T-revs, how long were you over there for?

Yeah, roads are pretty safe and predictable to drive on, although the elevated freeways are a confusing mess unless you know where you are going. Even with a navigation unit on the bike it would be pretty hairy; kinda like a fast moving video game. I would usually write down the various exits/turns clearly on paper and have it stuck to my tank bag. Usually I would get where I wanted to. Overall Japan has fantastic mountain roads for riding, so I like to rent a bike and head out for a couple of days when I travel back there and have the chance. Great fun. When I drove past that amusement park I was off to an AE86 event at Okayama, covering it for Fast Fours magazine. It was good as without that excuse I probably wouldn't have bothered as it was a long (1450kms round trip, with the return trip being 8 hours of constant rain) ride and I was gone for 3 days. Swung by and checked out Suzuka Circuit while I was out there. Back on your pics, I remember that Nagoya train station/bus station (cant remember) from the tower view shot. Its that weird circle built into the ground. Looks far more exciting from outside than in, but another weird and wonderful Japan moment.

I remember riding my motorbike past Nagashima Spaland (from Tokyo to Aida Circuit/Okayama International Circuit) and thinking "WTF is that place" but not having the chance to stop

If anyone here loves rock and is visiting Tokyo, I highly recommend visiting Bauhaus in Roppongi. Its in the background of pic 12