ausdrift

Its worth whatever the market is willing to pay. Search for recent sales of similar cars

ok bit of an update. Rather embarrassingly, it appears the cause is a flat battery. Rather than eliminate the basics I panicked and jumped to higher conclusions. I actually had a year old battery fail 5 months ago and got it replaced for a new one. For this reason and because it failed differently (voltage didn't drop as low, so it still chugged but didn't start, as opposed to the engine not even attempting ignition this time) I discounted the battery as being the culprit, but some internet research later and a few things added up. Checked the voltage, charged it overnight and its not looking good, so I think I'm off the shop I bought it from to again get it tested/changed. I guess this is the best outcome, although I really wish my battery's would be a bit more set and forget.

I'm a bit limited in what I can do right at the moment, but I have gone out and checked all relevant fuses (should have been my first step, I know) and there are none blown. Battery has over 12V and that's after me cranking is a bunch during testing/diagnosis (but this im 100% isn't related to the problem). The diagnosis plan from BenC34 (thanks!) is something I will have to attempt over the weekend as I don't have time until then. To otherwise check that the fuel pump is working, I think it primes and makes a noise when you turn the key to ACC, right? Also I have a PowerFC; is there a way to check for any error codes or diagnosis on that? And any other magic bullet items that may have failed for it to die like it has? thanks all

coilpacks were replaced with new splitfires 2 months ago so it shouldnt be that, should it. And it would run rough with a dodgy coil, rather than have no ignition at all right?

Help; car wont start (and its not the starter) So I went to drive the R33 work last week and when I cranked the ignition the engine began to start as normal but then cut out. Further attempts so start only had the starter appearing to work but would not start the engine. I assumed that the starter was somehow spinning but not engaging and therefore was at fault (its 19 years old) so I bought a new one and painfully installed it. I went to start the car; no change. I still hear spinning of a starter but the engine doesn't even try to fire up. The car is modified and on the ignition side the fuel pump is about 2 years old, and the plugs 1, battery is fairly new and alternator also is about a year old. Generally the whole car is well looked after. So why wont my car start? Ideas? What died? Big thanks...

Just do the isakura 3 day trial: its literally a couple of bucks and you use paypal

Thats one hellofa question

99%?! Yeah, ok...

Come and get em

Great drive and route. Really enjoyed it

A year on an curiosity got the better of me. Thanks to t_revs I tried Isakura on android box. The website to get it from is https://japannettv.com and you can either buy an android box through them or download the app if you have one already (I think you can do for PC also). It was suggested I go for a 3 day trial for USD$4 to see if it worked for me and that the quality was acceptable. I was a little doubtful as I have poor luck with tech stuff working for me, but I gave it a shot and wouldnt-ya-know-it; it worked! 75 Channels of the normal free to air plus a bunch of pay TV channels and quite cost effective if you were to buy the longer packages.

Still available

Update, I had a poke around the front left suspension and found that the swaybar link OD is slightly smaller than the swaybar and car ID so I believe that's where the clunk was coming from. The swaybar is aftermarket and I've tried to fix it as best I can but I think I need a proper go at it in the future. Also the whole car squeaks like crazy, so a winter job might be to try take apart everything suspension related, inspect, clean, lube as needed and refit. Its driving me nuts; good thing I have a loud audio system.

Really? I did not know this... As mentioned the problem is that one tyre is rubbing against the front plastic inner guard while the other doesn't. and If I am to use Mr Hammer, where are you suggesting I use it?

At buyers cost, yes, but if you are in melb pick up is best, might get costly to send as they are heavy

I cant get the alignment i want as with that much caster the tyre scrubs on one side, hence the need for a fix

I did this maintenance about 5 years ago. From memory the whole tail light unit unbolts and pulls out, so no need for cutting anything while on the car. Then the real fun begins of heating and prising apart the 2 halves, scraping the old seal off and applying the new sealant, either genuine Nissan stuff or you could probably use some kind of silicon sealant. Then refit

One more I've read about and I'm sure people on here have had to deal with is the heater vent box? thing under the dash. Its fixable, according to threads on it but I hear the real pain is getting to it, often involving dash out. Lucky I don't have that one...yet

Ha ha, nah this has been an issue for a while. Yeah, its pretty sad when shops can't get the basic right

So I've gone to get an alignment and long story short they ballsed it. The only useful thing they could show me was that the amount of space between the front tyre and front bumper is different on the left to the right. So with the same caster setting I will have, eg, 3 fingers width from front tyre to front bumper on one side and 4 fingers on the other. Why is this? I haven't had any accident or big hits that I can remember. So the real questions it, what can I do to fix it so that its balanced each side. I believe it may have to do with the front subframe? But I don't know what could be out of balance or what to adjust so that this is equal. Note this isn't something which an alignment will fix, as it can be aligned equal on each side, but this condition will still occur.

Its like fighting a losing battle having an older car

Yeah, stuff like this is good as I would never think to chase it to something like that

To throw another one out there, I was getting a noise in my other car which sounded like a container ship groaning. By spraying WD40 on it to test (makes the noise temporarily go away) it appears its the rubber swaybar bush where the bar goes through which wears and causes that noise. I have new ones ready to install. Back on me now, the clunk is front left (I believe) and although the coilovers are new, they are designed more for comfort than drift harshness, so I'm going to assume it shouldn't be them. I have replaced the tie rod ends and swaybar links in the last 2 years, so they should be in good condition, but I will have to check that everything is bolted on property and tight. From the rear Im getting mostly squeeking noises. I have rear camber arms, a rear suspension brace kit, upper tower bar, aftermarket swaybar as well as metal subframe bushes. Ideas? Could it be else ware on the body even?

What causes did you find for body/suspension squeeks and clunks? My r33 is modified and it does make a variety of noises while driving. I've just gone and replaced my coilovers for new, replaced my caster rods and even replaced the passenger side front lower control arm ball joint and to my great shock; all the squeaks and noises I had before, I still have! I'm especially confused as, in particular, I'm running out of things to replace on the front left, but I still have a clunk noise. So it got me thinking, what parts of the car have you proven were the cause of squeaks, clunks or general body noise? What have you changed which has solved it? I love my car and want to get it as perfect as a 20 year old car can be, so lets share the ways to make it a more pleasant drive.

Any questions let me know