Sarumatix

Massive thread Necro but.. I am working on putting an R34 RB25de + T into an R32. I have a high mount T67 and just realised (ouch big fail) that due to the de throttle setup there is no clearance. If I went with a turbo manifold setup I would be fine. My thought was to split the plenum bottom half from the top, hoping (probably wishful thinking), that the runners expand? Even if they don't maybe it would be possible to port the bottom half to match a turbo top half and a damn sight cheaper than porting the head. Damn you nissan and your smaller runners on the RB25de NEO!

Actually, there is surprisingly little information about sparkplugs on this forum, I have found more useful threads on our UK counter parts. Most threads on this forum end with: "search there are plenty of threads asking this question" . Mind you, this thread isn't on the right sub-forum so yeah off to a bad start.

Could you post the glovebox to victoria?

I tested with a set of splitfires from one of my other skylines that is currently driving around just fine. Not sure you can get a better test of coilpacks? Not only that but these coilpacks are literally new genuine nissan units... really hard to believe it is the coilpacks.

Yeah i'm not trying to be difficult and be obscure, there is another thread (although i'm open to more ideas tbh this is killing me). It's a misfire at 4000rpm under load when hot. Boost is 14psi. Car has been running fine, misfire appeared towards end of 5000km service interval so I assumed it was just old plugs which were 1.1 gapped. After replacing with 0.8mm gap it hasn't gone away. It definitely isn't coilpacks, igniter. I am confident it isn't the loom it's new and not old and shitty like many I have owned that I had troubles with. Gap, can try going back to 1.1 except everyone is certain that 0.8 should reduce misfire problems... So that leaves me with fuel pressure (I have an 044 intank which could have packed up and given up, they arent' meant to be mounted intank). My workshop has recommended i check the pressure at idle. Charge air measurement (haven't had any issues with these AFM yet but it could be one of them being a prick). I can check this with consult. if it isn't those two things, i'm scared, and out of ideas . Thanks for your all your suggestions.

Took them out of my rb20.. it isn't the coilpacks .

Process of elimination: - Borrow a known working AFM. If the AFM swap fixes the problem, then look at cleaning your AFM with a proper AFM cleaner and also resolder the cold solder joints in the AFM. 2 afms, big pain in the arse, easier to check with Consult (which i'll do) - Borrow a known working CAS good idea although i've never heard of a cas leading to 4k misfire - Check timing with a timing light, the belt might have skipped a tooth or 2. dun have, will have to get mechanic to check - Check fuel pressure. If the original pump is still in there, it's 18-23 years old and it's probably starting to struggle and needs replacing anyway. Walbro 255 or Bosch 040 are popular cheap pumps (just make sure to get a genuine one, forum sponsors are the best bet). bosch 044 which has been in for 7 years, guess it might be worth checking now. - Compression test mechanic. - Replace fuel filter did recently. - Try unplugging the O2 sensor, it could be faulty but it's a long shot. Never heard of o2 sensor fixing or breaking anything ps. is it a bad idea to pull the plugs (bcpr6es) out and chuck them in another car? they have done about 20kms but i'm not sure if the washer is single use?

Tried a set of known working coilpacks, exactly the same symptoms. I guess next step is to buy a couple of different sets of sparkplugs and try them out. So I have tested alternate Coilpacks Igniter I will try different sparkplugs - gapped back to 1.1 - bcpr7es What else is left? injectors AFM Loom - I find this extremely hard to believe as the one I have is very new without any dodgy clips etc

I'm in a bit of a bind, I have new coilpacks and a miss fire at 4000rpm that screams coilpacks. Does anybody SE have a spare set of known to be working r32 coils I could chuck in to test? *sigh*

mine Matt.

Yeah I tried another ignitor, same missfiring.

Only missfires above around 4000rpm (urgh surely not coilpacks >.<) haven't taken it past 4000 on cold to confirm but definitely does it while it's hot. No missfire at idle

Tested alternate igniter that is definitely working fine and didn't clear it.

Is there a dodgy batch of BCPR6ES's atm? I am experiencing exactly the same thing (except mine doesn't fully clear when warm)

I have an RB26 that started missfiring recently at the end of the 5000km of the current BCPR6ES11 (gapped to 1.1). I assumed the plugs were tired and pulled them out but bought BCPR6ES (these come factory gapped at 0.8mm according to repco). After changing the plugs the car has continued to missfire. The coilpacks are brand new genuine nissan units bought last year. Inspecting the old plugs there is definitely a slight fuel/oil residue on all of them although #5 and #6 appear a bit leaner (as is usual on RB26 plenum). What should I check next? buy some 1.1 gapped plugs and try them?

OK that is freaken cool. Can't wait! I have ECUtalk but it's a bugger dragging the laptop around, would much rather just be able to bluetooth in from S3 .

The daily 4-door is in the carpark atm gl finding it . Happy to meet up anytime (I work at Monash so.. yea no biggy). We used to have a club that would meet tuesday evenings, but then we all graduated .

Ahh yeah i've seen your car a few times .

What colour is your 34? There are couple at Monash that I see semi regularly. There is also a silver 33 4-door whose owner I work with and a purple (same purple as my car!) S14 S1 whose owner I also work with .

I'll take the broken one off you if you want to get rid of it. Otherwise happy to solder it up for you if you want (for a slab or something).

you can also get some models factory coilpacks brand new very cheaply (like I bought a set for around 400 from memory for r32).

yeah i'm SE but the best thing to do would be to buy consult and log AFM voltage during a journey with a laptop. As soon as you have the stall occur pull over and save data file. Very easy to check if it is infact your AFM.

I have re soldered one myself and it fixed exactly that problem. The pins on the plug seem to be very prone to dry joints, 20 seconds with a soldering iron, voila.

Specs on these are I believe: Front 17 x 7.5 +30 Offset Rear 17 x 8 +33 Offset

I'll take the IACV and AAC valves posted to melbourne. Was the car idling well that they came out of?