hrd-hr30

they look like motorbike style slide throttle carbs in the pic. Triple sidedraughts would be a cheaper option, but probably not legal on a factory EFI car. I would leave the multiple throttle bodies for last on the list - by themselves they won't make much difference on an otherwise standard engine. The L24 would respond well to a camshaft and sensible porting - there are some areas that can really use some attention on these heads.

where did you try to discredit me? the sarcasim is obvious, and given that you go on to talk about how much more experience you have and how fast you were, the obvious implication is I know nothing compared to you. You don't think that's an attempt to discredit?The point I was making, and that was apparently totally lost on you, is your experience with cross ply tyres on production 180Bs over 30 years ago is totally irrelevant to today's radial DOT tyres. As is your mates experience with cross ply slicks on sport sedans with widely disparite suspension designs which require totally different geometry and double the spring rates of strut suspensions. Setup experience from these cars are totally irrelevant to setting up a strut front end club car to run on radial DOT tyres. I was not suggesting that struts are more advanced than other suspension systems or that IPRA cars are better than sport sedans. Just commenting on the relevance of your experience - we were after all talking about your mates 700lb sprung club car... I'll take your word for what is in the 98 manual of motorsport, because I have to purchase a copy of that every year as a requirement of my CAMS licence. I guess current information isn't terribly relevant to bench racers. But Club Cars/Imp Prod have always been a 3rd catergory class since its inception. Group 2 is for sports cars. Assuming you meant 3E which is Series Production, a totally diferent category to Improved Production. What are you talking about? oh, so from just the total weight of the car you can choose appropriate spring rates for front and rear hey? aren't you clever... And if you go to Pedders or Whiteline for advice on springs for a race car, then good luck to you! I choose spring rates primarily through experience - knowing what ballpark sort of figures will work, and then tweaking from there with feedback gained from seat of the pants feel. I'm still using the first set of springs I chose, and they are on the stiff end of the spectrum, but still well and truly under half the rate your mate is apparently running. Its not rocket science, but if you think the ball park set of figures for DOT radials on cars about the weight of a 200B is anywhere up to 700lb, I can understand why you think it is so difficult. it was in particular reference to club level motorsport, and in direct response to you suggesting road cars should be put on scales to select their spring rates. Your V8 Supercar reference is just a smokescreen, there is simply no response required to that. unlike you, I never made any claims about how fast I am. But since you mention it, my lap times at Morgan Park, which is reknowned as a handling circuit, are faster than the best Nc Mini in the country running on vastly superior modern radials, so pardon me if the thought of minis and lotus cortinas on 60's or 70's technology cross-plies does not set my legs atremble... btw, the lotus powered escorts and cortinas are seconds off that pace.

well you can't argue with "facts" like that! I give up - you're right, I'm wrong! Clearly my lack of experience with prehistoric sport sedans running on conventional (ie cross ply) slicks and double wishbone suspension, or fwd minis on crossply greenspots and no real suspension, or series production 180Bs on god knows what kind of crap tyres, makes me not worthy to question your omnipotent motorsport knowledge! I've only built, setup, and competed with an Improved Production (they haven't been called "club cars" for about a decade!) 2L Datsun 1200 with strut front end and Yokohama A032R tyres, and have a couple of mates who've done the same with 1200's and 180B's. Clearly that's not relevant! ah, hang on - that's what your mate with the 700lb front springs is "gunna" do, isn't it? in future, have the respect to respond specifically to what you claim is wrong and why, rather than trying to tottaly discredit the person you're talking to with crap like "I've been doing this since you were in nappies" and you'll get treated with the same respect in turn. You're not talking to some pimply faced teenager, and frankly I'm not terribly impressed if one lap time set over 30 years ago is the best you can find to brag about in your long and illustrious mortorsport career... later, Harry

I didn't look because it was a 31. it's hard to tell with those wheels being black, but they could very well turn out to look like this... (lets see if I got the manage attachments thing right!)

I had a SIII R31 until last year. It was a good car. They are known for diff whine, but that's not a huge problem. A rebuild and they are good for many more years. Or look through the wreckers for an LSD out of a silhouete. the ride and handling were very good - mine was sensibly lowered. I ran as sweep vehicle for the Coastal Classic road rally a few years ago, which runs in conjunction with the QRC. And I got to run through the Hella Hillclimb stage (the only tarmac stage of the QRC) and get an official time. It would have put me in equal 4th out of the QRC cars on that stage, and one second behind Possum Bourne! lol! like I said it was a few years ago! but not bad for a dead standard auto RB30 on simex tyres and open diff! I did turn the air con off and shift it manually though! lol And the rally guys got to recce and pacenote the stage, although they had to run the forest tyres which would have slowed them down a bit. anyway, moral of the story is they can handle very well with the live axle for very little effort or money. that car had perfect brake balance too - just enough towards the rear so you could trail-brake into the turns nicely... front brakes faded a little too quickly with standard pads. They are a very underrated car I reckon.

that's because triangles are strong structures :lol you know, wedge shape...triangles...ah, forget it...

There are some Nissan dealers around who will go the extra mile and help get oddball parts in from Japan. But why not look at upgrading to a locally available, larger capacity L series six while you are rebuilding? That's what I'll be doing. Shouldn't require much (if any) mods to the engine management or fuel system if you just go with an L24.

a club car? as in Improved Production? the thing would never turn in on the Yokohama A032R's! Those kind of rates are for racing slicks only! It depends what your talking about. For road cars, this method will work adequately and keep a more comfortable ride, but for track work its totally the wrong way to go about it. Springs should be used as the primary tool for getting the balance right. Swaybars should only be used for fine tuning or adjusting the balance. Big swaybars can create big problems for track cars. If its for the road, I don't really know why you'd want (let alone need) to increase the spring rates - my HR30 is very firm as it is with standard suspension (even still has the standard 'adjustable' shocks! set on hard) and handles surprisingly well at standard height. most club level race cars are built, setup and raced without ever being corner weighted. Corner weighting is about setting cross weights, which can make the last little 1% in becoming a genuine outright contender on the race track after everything else is sorted. It's not used for selecting spring rates. For a road car its a total waste of time. As is adjustable suspension. It's useful for a race car, IF you know what effects a change in roll centre height, or bump/rebound adjustments will make, but for the road its a total wank. On a well setup race car, a 5mm change in front ride height can make a significant enough difference to the rollcentre and axis that it can totally change the on-limit balance of the car. A street car will be far less sensitive to the same change due to a range of reasons such as the much more conservative geometry and significantly lower mechanical grip. Besides, 90% of street cars have the ride height dictated by aesthetics rather than function, and most just see camber as a way of getting bigger rims under the gaurds!

Autopics have quite a few shots of various skylines raced in Australia over the years going back to the Prince Skyline GTB. I bought a couple of pictures off them a few years ago. www.autopics.com.au

is it an ex race car? here's the Gibson Motorsport Group A tourng car DR30. They ran the 4 stud pattern back then, but that's not to say all the cars of the era did, or that they weren't changed by a subsequent owner.

ah, interesting. you're saying that emissivty properties of the material/surface are only relevant to radiation, and not to conduction or convection? The latter two are obviously the primary methods of heat transfer in an air to air intercooler - convection on either side of the tubes, and conduction through the material. But it is convection I agree that we are talking about here on the outside of the 'cooler. I'm going to have to think about this one on the train ride home. I disagree about the insulating property of paint argument, given that high emissivity black paints (and other forms of coatings) are regularly used in industrial heat exchangers. A thin coating of paint is the only thing I'd ever recommend.

its about heat emissivity of the surface, ie how quickly heat can be emitted. a thin coating of matt black will increase the heat emissivity of an alloy surface. polished alloy is on the other end of the scale and has terrible heat emmission properties, so never polish something unless you want it to retain heat (or lack thereof).

I was asking for a pic of the wheel because I thought it might help someone locate another, which is what you seem to be after. But it's a little unclear - what's "the centre wheel adapter" that's missing? there was no R30 GTR, and I know of no homologation special for the R30. There was a GTS-R homologation version of the R31 for GroupA touring car racing, however. The R30 L20ET models had GT-ES badges.

best I can figure out is its some sort of obscure reference to the size of the master cyl and caliper pistons, but like you I've never heard anyone refer to them this way. But what would I know?

sounds very interesting. I'm not up on all the models available in the R30 range, but I know there was no GTR in the Nissan line-up from 1973 (KPGC110) to whenever the R32 GTR was produced - 1989?. So definitely no GTR model in the R30 range. I would also very much doubt that your car was released with a single nut hub assembly as original equipment. Do you have a pic of one of these wheels?

The diameter has nothing to do with leverage, leverage is the ratio of the surface area of the primary and secondry piston tops. you Charade boys should stick to your own forum. obviously the laws of physics differ in that parellel dimension. Do you seriously believe a larger diametre disc does not give increased braking leverage? the size of the disc relative to the size of the tyre determines the mechanical leverage of that combination. Easiest example to give you here is to consider a 4WD that came standard with a 31" tyre. Monster truck man wants to fit 38" Super Swampers - what effect will that have on the car's braking performance? I'll give you a hint - its exactly the same effect it will have on the car's accelleration. that's mechanical advantage (or in this case, disadvantage) at work. I was going to go into some detail about the effects of a change in master cyl size, but you're obviously struggling to differentiate between the mechanical leverage advantage of a larger diametre disc and the hydraulic system anyway, and I don't want to jump too far ahead of you!

you're missing the point about bigger brakes. The larger diametre discs give increased leverage, and better stopping power. This is simple physics. Also that line of thought about "if you can lock your brakes already, bigger brakes won't help you stop any quicker" is BS. The larger the brake, the more progression exists close to the point of locking the wheels, so you have a larger window to operate in when threshold braking. And its easier to do it repeatedly. multiple spot calipers also provide better clamping force, and apply that pressure more evenly over the pad surface. They are also less prone to pad 'knock-off'. I reckon you're standard charade wouldn't have a hope of locking up the fronts in a straight line once the slicks were up to temp. It's easy to think cars like charades have good brakes, but the real reason they stop really quick is because they're going really slow!

I think you'll find the injected L24E from the R30 had higher CR than the earlier carb versions, but I'll have a look and take some measurements later. hey Adam, it should be painted this weekend. Not a show car job, but good enough for a hillclimb/sprint/road rally car. I've finally got around to doing it! Going with the red over black RS style paintjob. The 1200 is sitting there patiently waiting for an engine. I have a complete turbo setup for the old A series engines, so that's what it will get eventually. I have to find a gearbox that will hold up to the power first - aiming for at least 200bhp at the flywheel to match what i had last year with the loaned Stewart Wilkins L18. That was an awesome engine! Craig is getting my old L series for his 1200, but he doesn't seem particularaly interested at the moment. His car has been sitting at my place for longer than I care to remember, and has even started talking about selling the car. I'm not worried about using my 1200 this year, I want to have a play with the HR30 instead. It will probably be another couple of months before its on the road - finally!

are you sure the L24E is only 8.5:1? They have factory flat top pistons with valve reliefs cut into them. I could go downstairs and measure up the combustion chambers and deck height etc to calculate the CR, but that ain't going to happen tonight. I'm pretty much planning on doing the same thing - I have a HR30 L20ET which I'm currently painting, and have an L24E sitting under the bench. Just an educated guess from looking at it, I though the CR would be too high (over 9:1) and was thinking I'd have to look at some piston options. I probably will take that route anyway with a 2mm overbore to open up my options for pistons.

OK, looks like it could be the same for HRs too. Mine was L20E from factory according to manufacturer plate, but had the L20ET when I bought it.

check your manufacturers plate for diff ratio my manual HR30 is totally original (at the moment) and has a 4.11 R200