AnimalGarage

It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag. I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility 3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack.

I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set. Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps

According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that fancy rear core Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car.

Some of the east coast US Stagea got together this past weekend at Lime Rock Park in CT for Grid Life Circuit Legends. This is probably my favorite pic of the shoot with @Morgan.Mundahl on IG. Hope we get more stags out next year! i think I spotted 5 other than my own at the event.

Hi Cody, If you are looking for a simple "bolt in bolt out" solution, I may be able to help via trade. I'm swapping my auto RS4V from stock subframe to a reinforced S14 Rear subframe specifically for track duty. I was looking into different rear core options while the car was in air and I found your thread. My VLSD rear is freshly changed fluid/inspected. I will say even with Redline diff fluid it is still not as aggressive as I would like with the "sports" viscous core, and coming from a heavily modded evo with full drivetrain I'm looking for a bit more rotation with the throttle. I second this, the polyurethane bushings are pretty aggressive as is. If you're interested in the trade, I am driving out to Chicago in September for a time attack event. I could swing by and make the trade somewhere Sept 12-13th or 15-16th if you are interested and you have not already solved this issue yourself.