dazmo

Hey guys. As mentioned in an earlier post My car has run a 58.9 on the sprint circuit at QR on my first shake down as I only got to do 8 laps before the stnd balancer broke (I know i should not have taken it to the track with the stnd balancer but could not resist and my ATI was on back order). Have not had time to get my car back together been to busy working on other peoples cars . Will have my car sorted for next yaer and will be hopeing to get straight into the 57 sec bracket with the ultimate goal of 55 sec just need to get some time in the seat and learn how to drive . But one of the other cars that I have built Mathew Gallea's R32GTR (26R32) has run a 56.9 and the engine has been in the car for around 3 years now it makes just under 375awkw @ 21psi and is still going strong. I could not tell you exactly how many klm's it has done but it would be plenty. It has done Super lap for the last 2 years with two drivers, Drive bathurst for the last two years and will be back at bathurst next month, Gatton sprints, Pittsworth sprints, Indy rally 2006-2007, A heap of Pauls Time attack days, quite a few sat afternoon sprints at QR and a trip just recently to lakeside ( wont be back due to the noise restrictions ). The dry sump is definatly the key to keeping the engine together and reliable for so long. Just my opinion and not having a dig at anyone but I believe that the key to good lap times is not more power but how the power is made and I personally believe that you will always struggle while running a larger single turbo as opposed to a pair of twins. I believe this is proven by that fact that all the quickest GTR's (track cars) not only on Pauls holy grail list but from down south as well all run twin low mounts. If you guys doubt my theory just have a chat with Mark Berry as he origanally tested a single turbo on his R34 3lt RB30 and quickly switched back to a pair of low mounts.

I have dry sump kits available for anyone that is interested Check out the for sale section (use search function rb26 dry sump kit) I have a post in there with some pics and what is included in the kit. It is a complete kit minus hose and fittings and has been tested for over 18 months now on several GTRs. The kit I have developed mounts the pump on the laft hand passenger side of the engine and does use a 5 stage pump. As far as buying the peterson stuff directly from the states i think you will find that on a one off purchase buy the time you add freight and duty you will not save a great deal. As i have researched fairly extensively on the supply of parts and as i have been buying quite a few pumps tanks etc I have negotiated a good price on supply from one of the australian distributors. If anyone would like pricing please feel free to pm me. wrxkilla from this forum can attest to the quality of my kit as he has just recently purchased one for his engine build. And just to give you the heads up unuique1 you will not be able to run a 5 stage pump and mount it on the drivers side of the engine as there is physiclly not enough room as you will find that the pump will foul on the post for the engine mount. 4 stage will be the largest pump that you will be able to use and the clearance with a 4 stage pump will be quite tight.

DRY SUMP FOR THE WIN

And reducing the size of your balls as well as the added bonus of future impotence. Sound like a great idea especially while asking to purchase class one illicit drugs on a public forum (obviously a thinker). when you have sifted thru the abundance of PM's you will no doubt recieve regarding your inquiry and negotiated the best price maybe you can keep us all informed and organize a group buy.

BUMP. This kit is a must have for anyone building a big power track GTR that wants total reliability and to be able to run lap after lap with peice of mind. I and a mate of mine have personally done 70 laps non stop at QLD raceway only pitting for a driver change in one of the cars i have built thast runs this kit.

I agree with Paul. I have done many timeing belts on GTR's of all power levels useing new factory bolts and have never had a problem. I would say that the bolt breaking in this case is just pure bad luck. And as Dan stated this is not a common problem so lets not all get paranoid.

HEY GUYS I HAVE A STANDARD NISSAN 5 SPEED GEARBOX OUT OF MY R33GTR. BOX WAS REMOVED FROM CAR WHILE THE CAR WAS STILL 100% STANDARD IS IN PERFECT CONDITION WILL OBVIOUSLY SUIT A PULL TYPE CLUTCH BUT CAN BE CONVERTED TO PUSH HAS HAD THE HOLES FOR THE SLAVE CYLINDER DRILLED AND TAPPED SO WOULD JUST BE A MATTER OF BUYING THE PARTS REQUIRED FOR THE CONVERSION FROM NISSAN. PRICE $1000.00 (pics available on request we all know what a gearbox looks like!!!) PLEASE PM OR PH 0417305401 DAZ.

HI ALL AS STATED IN THE TITAL I HAVE DRY SUMP KIT FOR RB26DETT FOR SALE THE KIT IS BRAND NEW BUT I HAVE TESTED THE SAME KIT ON TWO GTR'S ONE WITH 380AWKW AND THE OTHER WITH 450AWKW FOR 18MONTHS - 2 YEARS WITHOUT ANY ISSUES. The kit consists of. 1 x Peterson 5 stage oil pump. 1 x billit oil pump mounting bracket. 1 x Peterson 3 gallon oil tank. 1 x oil tank mount. 1 x Breather tank (for the main oil tank) 1 x billit drive spindle to suite either ATI 1000HP/ATI600HP balancer. 1 x billit oil block (replaces factory heat exchanger oil filter mount). 1 x remote oil filter mount. 1 x Custom internally baffled RB26 sump with 3 oil pick ups. (front diff not included). All oil pump drive pullys and belt. All bolts required. All the billit bits in the kit are machined from 7075 T6 aircraft grade alluminium and anodised black. The only thing required to fit the kit are braided hose and fittings. Wich are just not practicle to sell in a kit form as most people will have a different idea of where they will want to mount their tank and how they will run their lines. THE PRICE FOR THE KIT IS $7000.00 FIRM NO OFFERS WILL BE ACCEPTED. INTERESTED PARTIES PLEASE PM OR CALL ME ON MOB PH 0417305401. DAZ.

Where are you located? If you can supply/soarce some titanium pipe and are local i can have it done for you.

Mate your insistance on the car having a back seat is ridiculous as in Australia you can not run any quicker than a 10.99 without ANDRA requiring that you have an approved roll cage. And if you have a roll cage (any decent and safe cage) then it is not possible to keep the rear seat. And if you have a roll cage then it would add a lot more weight than the removal of the rear seat. Rear seat weighs approx 8kg while a roll cage adds around 60kg so by my maths that would be be an increase of 52kg. And as stated Pauls car is engineered as a two seat car and is legally registered and does get driven on the street so if you think that this car does not qualify for your list then i think that makes your list fairly irrelivent mate. I think you will find most people would agree as the insistance on having a rear seat just seems overly padantic. Is it that you would personally prefer to see another car at the top of the list ?.

Awome build mate is a credit to yourself and race pace. Is always good to see cars built to such a high quality satndard (parts and workmanship included). Would no doubt be one of the best road cars doing the rounds. As richard (beerbaron) said I cant fault the combo you have gone for. I can only wish the budget would allow for a v cam set up for my own car as an RB28 with Vcam and set of HKS 25/30 or GTRS would be the ultimate combo in my personal opinion.

No doubt just jap are going to say they are good as they sell them so they are hardly going to say anything else!!. Dont get me wrong I am not saying that they are not good as I have no personal experiance with them though I would agree with the above post about the upper controll arms as that design is known to be flawed and will definatly break is not a matter of if but when. I personally would go for IKEA FORMULAR suspension gear but the cost is prohibitive for a lot of people but in my opinion the IKEA stuff is by far the best on the market. Personally if I was not useing the ikea stuff i would have custom fabricated arms in chrome molly and sourced the spherical joints locally as this could be done by any good fabricator or by yourselves if you have the right equipment and necessary fabrication skills and would give peice of mind in regards to quality of materials and workmanship. In my opinion you should never make a decision on parts that have a direct bearing on saftey based on price that is just my 2c worth. And as i stated i am by no means saying that the Just Jap stuff is no good as I stated I have had no personal experiance with them but must say I am always suspect on china parts.

Are the JJR suspension arms made in china?? If so i would personally steer clear just as i would the chinese brakes when it comes to components that are a safty issue I would personally steer clear of anything from china. Not saying that thay are a bad thing as I have no personal experiance with them but dont take chances with anything suspension or brake related. Good luck with the build mate is coming along nicely.

No offence intended but those power figures quoted would make me think that that would be a pretty terrible combo to drive to go from 165rwhp @4000 to 557rwhp @ 6500 to me it would just suggest that it would be fairly difficult to put the power to the ground and unless he is useing mega revs would end up with a fairly narrow power band. I personally just dont understand why people would go for this sort of combo especcially when the peak power output quoted would be achieved with ease with a pair of low mounts and would be making at least 100 - 150 rwhp more at 4k and the same sort of top end power figure and that would without a shadow of a doubt be a much quicker car and a much nicer combo to drive than the above combo based on the figures quoted. just my 2c .

Enzed or Hydrulink stock the teflon line and the push in joiners to suit mate in various sizes you should have no problem getting some from either place.

I would not personally use a billit turbo as I am suspect on there longevity. I do believe myself that there is a reason none of the worlds largest turbo manufactures go down this route and they do spend millions in R&D so there has to be a reason for it !!. I personally fail to see that the manufacturers of these turbos wich work out of a small shed in their back yard with an extremely limited budget to conduct any R&D know something that some of the worlds leading turbo manufacturers do not. I would suspect myself that the thermal loading that the core is subject to would no doubt cause the alluminium biilit to become brittle and fatauge long before the cast iron cores used for every other turbo charger and by every other manufaturer in the world.

I will have a dry sump kit available in a week or so just waiting on the last few bits to be anodised. The kit has been tested on two 500+HP GTR's for the last 18 months without a problem. For anyone interested PM me for details.

Congratulations to Paul DirtGarage he ran a pb last night of 9.54 @ 126mph (with a little bit of help from some inpromptu dazmo engineering). Still should have plenty more in it yet so bring on the jamboree Good luck mate.

Hey mate not to sure on how much experience you or your engine builder mates have but I would be a little concerned if you need to ask some of the questions you have. The cleaning is fairly straight forward and mostly commonsense and your mates with engine building experiance should be able to give you the run down. If your mates need to ask about the rings being installed right way up and positioning of ring gaps etc i would not have to much faith in their abilities do they own a ring file? and plan on setting ring end gaps correctly? as you can never just install them on the piston whack them in the bore and hey presto all is good. one of your main studs will need to be cut down to clear the front axel tube that runs thru the sump pan the torque rating on ARP2000 series studs is 60ft/lb with ARP moly lube. you should have no problem with useing the uprated valve springs but out of curiosity why would you want to upgrade valve springs with stnd cams as you will only ever run into a problem (valve float) if you are useing high rpm with larger lift cams and stnd valve springs so it just seems that that is money that could be spent elsewhere for greater gain. Please dont take this post as having a dig at you or your mates as I would just be a little concerned as some of the questions you have asked are pretty basic and anyone that has to ask these questions should probably just have the job done by an experienced engine builder or at least have someone experienced giving you a step by step guide thru that whole process. Hope it all works out well for you and you get good results and no problems Daz.

Was the old standard balancer mate I would have thought it would have been up for at least a full day being that it came off a reasonably low klm standard unmodded engine but it wasn't to be. Just means a few late nights in the shed and a little lighter in the hip pocket but hey thats cars for you.

Hey mate you are spot on there with the auto shutdown but not the safest option for a cuircuit car. But the as you stated the EM PRO2 has already paid for itself although I was unable to shut it down quick enough to save the bearings (not much you can do when you get a low oil pressure alarm mid corner when you are commited i guess) at least I managed to shut it off before any damage was done to big end or main journells. The drive for the oil pump i was useing was an insert that goes inside the balancer and is held in place with the same bolt that holds the balancer on and then has the mandrel with the drive gear bolted to the insert so there is no extra load on the balancer at all so I have to assume that it just could not handle the power or more so the torque being generated and just gave up the gohst.

Hey Richard /Paul is a bummer to have pull the thing apart so soon but what can you do Is my own fault though As I had an ATI balancer on back order wich I actually picked up on the friday 2 days after track day so only had the standard balancer on there and thought it would live thru the 1st shakedown but it wasn't to be. Let that be a lesson to anyone to be patient and not to track their fresh engine with a standard balancer. I have already got the crank and rods at my machine shop for a repair on the crank snout and to resize the rods at least i was lucky enough to shut it down (thanks to Ruzics EM PRO2 warning function) that it did not damage any of the journell's so at least there is some good news i guess. I plan on having it all sorted before the next track day so will post un update then. Some pics of the damaged balancer.

Just a quick update on the cars 1st track shakedown. The car was going well without any drama's in the first session pullling hard needs some work on the wheel alaignment and will need a brake upgrade as soon as the bank account allows. Off the trailer I managed to lap around the 1.00min for the first few laps than managed a couple of .59 sec laps with my fastest being a 58.9 sec lap wich I was happy with but in the 2nd session coming out of turn 1 I had a low oil pressure warning and shut the engine down as sooon as possible and towed back to the pits to find it had thrown all the belts off. Turns out it has broken the balancer thrue the middle thrown the belts and has damaged the front of the crank and due to the drop in oil pressure need a new set of bearings.

I will be taking the car out for its first track day (shakedown) this wednesday at mountain runners Time attack day will be out there for the afternoon session and will also have one of the other cars that I have built 26R32 out there. Should be a good day. This track day is fully booked with some pretty serious cars heading out. I am really looking forward to getting out there and for a few laps after all the work to get the car to this stage. So anyone that can make there way out there for a look I would say it should be well worth the effort. And anyone that has been following my build thread come and say hi.

If you have only managed an 11.1 than your a long way off Dirt Garages time buddy. Best not to lay down a challange that you cant win.