Hardman69

Wouldn't it be better to run the full circuit, so that the (I'm assuming massive numbers of) cars are spread out, and it's not so hectic out there? Plus it's super-easy to get nice, clean passes done on the extension's 2 long straights. Just My 2c (and yes, I know speeds would be a lil' higher, but it's only 15-20km/h more for most cars)

YouTube is sooooo good for burning HUGE amounts of time ! A night race in Melbourne would be AWESOME: Honda's last V10: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyWP7mC1oX0 Not so high-output engine on a testbed: V12: Driving a prop: And the GixxerKart, in case someone hasn't seen it: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWT6xd3qvkg Oh, better mention F1 2007 eh? ummm.. . Has there been any decisions yet, re: Aero rules for 08/09 ? All these winglets are getting absurd!

As You're probably already aware, the R33 HICAS is actuated by an electric motor, unlike the hydraulic system in the R32. In My car, the HICAS light comes on when the speed-signal wire coming out of the speedo drops it's bundle, and there's no speed signal getting to the ECU or the HICAS box (the two elec. units downstream of the speedo on the speed wire). On my car, sometimes the speedo AND the ECU lose signal, sometimes it's just the ECU (The AVCR I've got takes its speed signal from the ECU, so I can tell where the break in signal is) - I'm guessing it's dodgey connections inside the speedo, at the screws in the back of the instrument binnacle, which hold the speedo guts to the circuit board. peace-out.

Dead F40 drivers obviously suck-ass, as drivers that is. (no disrespect to them as people, far from it - they had the good sense to buy an F40!!!!)Such a shame, further proof that even though somebody may be able to AFFORD to drive a supercar, they don't necessarily DESERVE to drive it !

hhmmm.. . . I was thinking of paying in beer, but then who'd go for that? nobody! so figured ca$h-money is safer I'll probably be putting the stockie intercooler back in (better safe than sorry) and I think I need the RB25DET airbox to clear the return pipe from the factory I/C. So thanks Kaz, but I'll run with the turbo airbox. actually, now that I think of it.. . . I'd really like 2 chickens & a pig.. . . mmmmm.. . . . Tasty !

1 vote here for the M-Sports. The lines on it are much more sympathetic to your (super-tight, btw) front bar.

Thanks guys. Yeah, I'm 95% sure the N/A GTS airbox is different to the Turbo one. D'oh ! ! Letme know Kaz - Taaa

Hi Y'all, as the Topic says, I need an Air Filter Box, pref. with snorkel. - South East suburbs preferred. Also - I get My old 3.75" Straight through Cat-back Xszorszt back this weekend, I'll post pics next week. Make an offer ;-)

With some short-shifting, and appropriate brake & tyre preservation, that would actually be a nice, comfortable laptime for Me. Screw that, I wanna go fast !

umm, I've seen an F40 on the road, number plate on (slimline of course!) driving towards Phillip Island (I assume) on the South Gippy hwy. SO red ! Has anyone seen the N.Z. replica F40, with a twin-turbo 1UZ ? It's quicker than the genuine article ! ! !

That's some fine, fine smack-talk there fellas, High-class too ! ! I doubt you'll find 4->5 seconds at Winton with new suspension tRoy, it's all about the braking, cornering technique & teh massiff POWAAH at Winton. Obviously the transitions into/out of the corners are super-important there, as they're mainly square-ish stop/go bends, but if you've got turn-in, and power-down, then it's all braking & accel. for the laptime. . ..and I don't believe the ol' Rb20 is getting shy about kickin hard, is it ? ? ?

Oh it's not for me, I've got mates who are/will be interested. VERY interested. I'm saving my car & money for another Phillip Island, much as I'm starting to sound like a broken record about P.I. (With big rear wing, 20kw more & a decent few laps, I'm thinkin high 1:51's)

How thick is the normal headgasket? what's your compression ratio now? Have U tested the pressure drop across the I/C? Anyhoo: lower compression = less power (if everything else stays the same) because the engine is less efficient. The upside is that it's less likely to ping/knock, so U can wind in more boost. umm, if I were you, I'd spend the money on another tuner first, preferably with "knock cans" 10:1 AFR ? ? ? W.T.F. ? ? Try 12:1 or even 12.6:1 since U got lower than stock compression. Just back off the timing a touch if she starts knocking. (I'm on 12.5:1 from 5k->redline, 3.5 trackdays and 30,000+km in, and still all good)

Hey, No way in hell You should be hitting load-cell 20 on 0.9 bar!! ! (unless there's been some MEGA dodgey FCDataLogit work) My Z32 AFM struggles to crack 4v at 200rwkw (13psi@6,800rpm). It's 2nd hand ex-300ZX, with dodgey dinted mesh downstream of the sensor wires - which is ok since I got it cheap, and the "upstream" mesh is fine.

Is there a need to book, or is it just rock-up & sign-in ? how crowded is the track expected to be? I heard it was a lil' hectic at times last time it ran.. . . . ta

Happens with big (relatively speaking) boost, at low rpm. If you look at a compressor map for a turbo, you'll usually see a dotted "Surge line" running up the L.H.S. of the map. This is where the compressor can't push any more pressure at that flow-rate, and stalls (like an aeroplane wing stalling, or a boat propeller cavitating). It stops pumping & sheds a tonne of boost pressure and (turbo)rpm, until it can re-establish compressor flow & start building shaft rpm & boost again. If U keep the clog in, this keeps happening in a cycle, and U get compressor surge. Wind down the boost at low rpm, or back off the throttle when U hear it hissing REAL loud just before it stalls (and makes the ssssSSSSSCCHHEEW sound as it stalls the compressor). Good luck

I just put a low-mount stainless one on. There's a week of evenings gone.. . . . Seriously thoughtless design, I couldn't get a proper go at torquing 2 of the nuts, so I'm just praying they don't work loose. I had to slot-out 7 or 8 of the holes (up to 4mm!) just to get it over the studs, and the collector off cyl.5 fouled the stud & nut, so I had to file the weld seam & some of the pipe off just to get the fv(ker on ! ! am I allowed to say where I got it from? Hello, Legal dept. ! ! ? ! A high-mount would probably fit better, since the pipes aren't so tightly bent & grouped.

If You only wanna run 12-13psi, go with the 5psi rb25 actuator, to give the AVC-R more control. If You wanna punch more into it, go the 10psi RB20 actuator so that it won't crack the wastegate open until 10 pound. This'll help quicken spool-up, by not bleeding any gas past the wastegate. The AVC-R will start tweakin the solenoid at 0.3 bar regardless, so I doubt it'd affect how hard it works, only the duty cycle.

Well Suspension & Brakes get fixed by stripping weight.. . . not sure where from tho, the ol' Commo's already fairly light! Exhaust leaks need pipe & welder, and the oil leaks are standard fitment on all pre-1990 commodores ! ! :sorcerer: hmmm.. . . wanna take a gas-axe & gut the rear door frames? fit some 1mm lexan for side windows, dodgey carbon/Fglass bonnet&bootlid, ummm, You've stripped the dash already, haven't U??? geeez, I'm running out of ideas ! After that, U gotta get craazzzzy. . . Maybe replace the entire floorpan with space-frame tubes & alloy sheet? ?

Did You get a manual with your AVC-R ? Read it. It tells U all U need to know, just not very clearly ! The boost value You set in it is the "Target boost" that it'll self-learn the solenoid Duty-cycle for. The feedback rate You set in the options menu affects how quickly it adjusts to the correct duty cycle for holding this boost level. The Solenoid % U set is the "Start duty" which is what the AVCR jumps to when "boost control starts" at about 0.3bar. Play with it, learn what it does, get a feel for how aggressively U wanna bring the boost on. Note that too high on the feedback rate will cause boost fluctuation, as the AVCR over-compensates all the time. I'd say set feedback around 8 in first, 7 in 2nd, 6 in 3rd etc.. . . 5th gear U want fairly calm response, so 3 or 4 is fiiiine. Like the manual says, if U set the start-duty a bit high, boost will come on quicker, but it will spike slightly over the set boost, until the AVCR self-learn can stabilise it. Dig?

Haha, gotta pay that.. . . it's totally Valid! My car is broken though. (will be going wednesday I hope, shall report on stainless exhaust manifold's usefulness) How's the Commondore trukin' on Budge? I've got a VH awaiting V6 transplant completion in the backyard.. . .

Oh I wouldn't bother with a dead-stock Skyline, I drove a few when I bought mine, and it just ain't no fun ! I'm at about 200rwkw, and I'd say that's just nice for a road car (I've got a fat torque curve tho, 16psi boost midrange, 'til the injectors hit 100% at 5,500rpm) but just barely a starting point for trackwork, IMHO. About 18psi and 250rwkw feels REAL fiesty on the road, I've ridden in one a couple of times, and it'll light up both rears in 2nd, straight-line style. =D The stockie's restrictive exhaust housing/exducer limits flow to 180rwkw, 190 if you're lucky (or your dyno reads optimistically) Stock turbo comes on smooth & quick, but ultimately won't set your pants on fire. The real-deal "turbo rush" comes from the laggier, harder-hitting delivery of bigger-flowing turbos. It's fun

Well mine isn't a slide (I'm sworn to secrecy) but I get the impression it's a similar result in power, lag, efficiency etc. The spool-up below 2,500rpm is possible, but not in the same game as the stockie. Above 3,500rpm tho, it kicks like a frikken Mule ! ! It's definitely not as "ready to go" about town when You're cruisin & give it a prod, but when you've got a few revs onboard to begin with, it's GOLD ! I don't even notice the lag 99% of the time now, just used to it I guess, & automatically adjust/pre-empt.

I SERIOUSLY doubt you'll find a ball-bearing turbo for under $1500. AFAIK the Highflowed SLIDE turbos are plain-bearing. In fact, I don't know that I've seen ANY ball bearing turbo's around, highflowed, new. or otherwise for under $1500. There's T3/4 hybrids kickin about new for $500 or less, but they're oil-cooled only cores. not too sure on quality or performance either. hmmmm.. . . . . . .

HAAAAA ! :laughing-smiley-014: Gold dude, GOLD ! I think I nearly pooped my pants laughing just then, at least You've got a sense'O humour about it eh? WHY would people go and schedule motorsports events on the long weekend? Don't they know I've got an engagement party, and mates-back-up-home reunion thing happening ? ? I wanted to go car-whore at Phillip Island for the Vic champs too, Gee-Gosh I like those sports sedans!