Hardman69

From the "Biggest subs in an R33 boot" thread: Re: HICAS Box - If You're comfortable that You know how HICAS works well enough, that You can relocate the control Box and not mess with the sensors in it, then by all means . . . . . knock yourself out Tiger ! ! Here's the work of art, that is My sub Box: The big relief on top is to clear the HICAS Box, As U can see it's a TIGHT fit to get the 2x10" cones in, that box runs the entire height of the under-parcel-shelf area. It's 38 Litres, Which gives a flat response curve down to 70Hz, where it starts dropping away (like most sealed boxes do) to lose 3db at 45hz, & more below there. That's okay tho - I just give the 45hz boost on the Amp a lil' tweak to compensate. NoiCe ! !

Want 230rwkw? Might as well shoot for 250, 'coz you'll need basically the same mods for both power figures. Start with a full exhaust, to let your stockie turbo spin, then you'll want a decent (75mm thick) FMIC to cool that extra air flow. This'll push the stock ECU into Rich & Retard territory, which'll likely give U spark trouble, if your CoilPacks aren't SuperDuper. So I'd recommend a full-ECU (SAFC's & boost cut defenders etc. are just bandaids, I.M.H.O.) - That should do you for 180->190rwkw, where you'll probably tap-out the stock Turbo, A.F.M. and Injectors. Next is a Turbo & Z32 AFM (assuming U got a PowerFC), or a MAFless tune, if you've got a fancy, expensive aftermaket ECU & MAP sensor. I dragged 200rwkw even outta mine with a tidy tune in the PFC and a Z32 afm, but the injectors were at 100% from 5,000rpm to redline ! ! ! You'll also be after fuel pump, Injectors, and possibly a Fuel pressure Reg, and You're done! - depending on what size turbo/pump/injectors You got, You could probably support up to 300rwkw, however I believe the Pistons have been known to melt at around 270rwkw, and oil pressure is questionable, for this much mumbo. p.s. Keep your stock airbox installed - it'll MAYBE cost U 5kw at most in this range, and may well keep you out of the EPA test-station for a very long time, as most coppers don't know much more than "Can't have an intercooler AND a pod" Seriously. (Did I mention, You're meant to get a $500 fine with your second EPA visit??)

A few weeks ago, I sprayed a whole can of degreaser over everything enginey & dirty-lookin, and 5mins later sprayed it off at the car wash with "High pressure wash" - and then dawdled home to dry it out with the air compressor, then spray a mist of turps over/around the CoilPacks with the parts washer air-gun. It wasn't enough - turns out there was still water sitting beneath the coil packs, where the compressed air couldn't blast it out. Sure enough, the legendary RB25DET weak-spark misfire came back . . . . so out with the coil packs, dried it properly, in with the WD-40 & RP-7, put it back together again. Mis-Fire gone. so - moral of this story: Water tends to find the lowest part of your cam-valley . . . around the spark plugs !

Hamilton going for it to unlap himself . . . NO GRIP in the water still ! ! Lookin good for the restart . . . . fingers crossed

Yeah, It's Mental ! ! - Webber's up into 4th ! Red flag Suxorz x10 - but had to be done, Aquaplaning isn't your friend ! ! (I've had it happen in the Kart on slicks - did a complete 360 exiting a corner, and kept going ! !)

Likely a dead O2 sensor. borrow one & see what happens. My O2 died recently - Idle hunts up & down all over the place once it's warmed up, and I'm assuming goes into closed-loop mixture control.

Warning: Smack talk coming:If I can drag 250rwKw outta the ol' RB25DET, that might nearly cancel the weight advantage You're enjoying there Roy.. . . (Maybe I won't sell ol' flamey the big Cannon Exzorst)

haha - How SH!T is Alex Yoong? ! ! He couldn't even get by in a V8 Supercar, how in the FRIKK was He allowed into F1?? (And I kno, Money talks) BEER BARON FOR FIA PREZ ! BEER BARON FOR FIA PREZ ! BEER BARON FOR FIA PREZ ! We gotta bring the wheeltrack back out 200mm to 2m - ALL REAR TYRE BABY ! ! ! (and use the same size front rims, but with low profile tyres, like in the late 70's) BooYAAH ! ! ! !

Thanks dude! I ended up just taking the plunge before I saw that msg tho.. . The one I got is 21200-V7206 (Thermostat 82)I finally got the really good dude at my local(ish) Nissan parts bench on the phone. He just looked up by year, model, engine type. Woo-Hoo ! He's sure that Nissan's bringing in the Next GTR, but The Skyline (cooking-edition) is not looking so good. Something about not wanting to upset the Local RWD market.. . . .

Bump.. . . Anyone?

Yo ! I'm leaving about 6->6:30, to be up there around 8->8:30.

Dude - for f**k's SAKE don't get a Skyline on your P's. Do You REALLY want to be pulled-over EVERY day THAT BAD ? ? ! I believe the new P's rules say "No mods at all to engine" - so removing the Turbo would be a mod.. . Catch 22. Plus the RB25deT motor has lower compression than the N/A Motor, so it'd be heavier on fuel than necessary, AND gutless. Maybe get a 240Z for 3 years, & learn about hardcore maintenance ? ? ?

I think that the V-Groove regular plugs I had were stronger sparking (at the same, 0.8mm gap) than the Iridiums. I'm about to put V-Grooves back in, to replace my 35,000(ish)km old Iridiums.

Hi guys, like the topic says - I want the part number for the R34 RB25DET's thermostat. I want a taste of that 82deg.C coolant hotness!

Thanks for the input guys, appreciate it. BUT I STILL NEED A PART NUMBER ! Anyone? Anyone? Obviously my thermostat isn't working properly (highway temps of 68degC is a joke) so I've gotta replace it. I'm just putting one in that'll get me into a more efficient temp. zone. (most new cars run around 100deg, so I'm not concerned about the 5deg. increase) As for big-heat, I've been "pulling the plug" on hot-lapping at 111deg.C when the temp gauge starts heading rapidly North. I've seen it hit 113 at Winton, which isn't boiling yet (thankyou coolant & pressure!) but I REALLY don't wanna kill my cylinder head finding out just where it boils, Ya'know? ! ! ! I'm hoping that a new thermostat, and cleaning out the block where it seals will also help reduce max.temps, as it'll reduce water flowing back through the block at full-open (100deg.C+ )

They're usually reluctant to order stuff unless you give a part number, or your VIN, so they can be sure it's the correct part. Since I want a part from a later model car, I'd like to order with part-number in hand. :sorcerer: GTT34: I do 98% of my driving in cruise-along mode, when I want every last drop of economy I can get. On the highway it's usually around 68deg. water temp (on the PowerFC). If I'm in thrash-mode, it's either for 1 or two corners (so temp won't have time to rise) or I'm doing a track day, so temps will never get below 100deg.C anyway. (i.e. thermostat wide-open all the time) U know it makes sense!

Anyone?

Ha HAA ! I am sworn to secrecy on my Hi-Flow, suffice to say it'll do about 270rwkw, and has a watercooled plain-bearing core. It's not excessively laggy with the AVC-R tweaked-up correctly - certainly does the job for me, anyway! Maybe You should investigate how changing the compressor housing slightly would affect surge? This seems to be at the heart of the problem, after all. Half a mil' here, a few thou' there.. . . might make all the difference.

Yeah, that part of it (what the hell is "fot" ?) I wasn't real sure about - I'm guessing that's just lagging air in the intake system getting pushed out backwards through the AFM ? I've found my Hi-Flow turbo will start surging slightly (without stalling the compressor) at low-rpm and middling load, on small throttle openings. Plant the foot and it cleans up the airflow, cuts the surge. I think there's TWO things going on here - compressor surge, and BOV recirc-blowback.

Sounds like classic compressor surge to Me. I've seen a couple of guys mount the AFM between the I/C and the throttle body - that would prevent any air flowing backwards through the AFM, but it won't stop the surging. I'd suggest looking into a (second) pre-I/C Blow-off valve (plumb-back of course!) that'll bleed-off pressure with only a small pressure differential between intake manifold & compressor exit. That'll vent the pressure peaks & smooth/reduce the surge pulsing. Short of getting some precision compressor/housing machining done to move the surge line, backing off the boost at low rpm is the only real way to eliminate it. My Turbo is prone to surge at 0.5bar at 2,500rpm, 0.65bar @3k, 0.8bar @3.5k, etc. etc. It's called a stall/surge line. get used to it.

If You'd like to continue having sponsors pour bucketloads of support into your lil' hobby, I'd suggest U don't badmouth them, or their product!Love the car tho - Tuff x10,000 ! ! when U can't put up with being made to run a Holden anymore, I'll GLADLY pick up the driver's gloves again & take over the duties! I LOVE Holden & Dunlop !

Does anybody have a part number for the R34 NEO RB25DET thermostat? (The 82deg.C one) - My R33 takes FOREVER to get up to temp, I wanna go HAAAWWWWTTT ! !

N.Z. F40 Replica site (Scroll down for Vid. links) Article from N.Z. Classic Car mag

haaHAAAA ! ! - Best laugh I've had all day ! ! GOLD I sez ! and THAT, dear skyliners.. . . is how "satire" is done ! !

Noice ! I'll be able to guide ol'mate through every braking zone & turn-in then!