Rowdyr32

Pods sold pending payment.

There is only one output but it can be adjusted through a controller to set around 50 or more settings. The unit can be set to whatever you require at around .2v increments through the 0-5v range. Its not fixed to only a few settings like to off the shelf units.

SkylinerGTR I will seperate the suspension. Do you want all of the arms(Castor rods)?

I have one for sale complete rolling shell. Willing to neg depending on what you want with it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/395442-parting-out-r32-gtr-setup-for-streettrackmotocarna/page__p__6283433#entry6283433

Just uploaded a huge amount of photos onto Photobucket. They are all out of order so have a flick through the pages. Note none of the parts have been cleaned. Removed straight from the car. http://s1139.photobucket.com/albums/n544/rowdyr32/R32%20%20GTR%20Shell%20and%20Parts%20on%20SAU/ Curmi the towbar is SOLD awaiting payment. PWND there is a photo showing the wing on the car in the link. If I haven't responded to your pm's left me know. Just replied to about 30 or more.

The wing is at a mates house. I'm not sure if I have any close up photos. From memory it was just a little wider than the boot lid.

Just cleared out my pm box. I'm having internet issues at the moment and unable to send pictures through my phone. Tommorow I'll get on a fixed line and send all photos and answer questions as promised.

Think you might have pushed the friend button. Not the pm. The arms and castor rods came on the car when I bought it. I bought the shocks second hand off a race car maintained by Sydneykid. Not many kms obviously. Bought the swaybars new of him new at the sametime. In the whole time I owned the car I have only put 13000Km on it and that involved two trips to Sydney. The shocks went about 2 years after buying the car. I might have the reciept somewhere but highly doubt it. Sorry typed his with my phone!

Rear Diff SOLD

The diff has been spoke for sorry Luke. I'll send you a photo of the towbar before pricing postage. drftps13d the shell ran out of rego 2 years ago. Couldn't justify paying for a car I never drove.

Have finally bit the bullet after procrastinating for years over what to do with it. I will only be selling the car in large pieces so please don't email asking if I have this or that and I won't sepeate parts that are listed atm. Hoping to move everything fast so if your after multiple items I will work out a good price for you. I spent money of this car trying to make it go quicker smarter instead of spending massive dollars for little gain. The car performed extremely well for what is was. I just needed more seat time and money for trackdays to get the most out of it. Complete rolling shell $3500ono It will be the whole car minus brakes and all parts required to run a RB26 and g/box (engine loom, afm's, airbox, intercooler+pipes, radiator, etc) The whole car loom will be there. Complete shell will come with all panels, llights, complete interior in car + GTR floor mats in VGC plus spare set interior panels with scuffs, all driveshafts, aircon with gas still in it, flared rear guards to suit 34 offset 10inch wheels. Battery in boot. Std GTR suspension. Colour STI blue. Boot and bonnet will need painting as it had a carbon bonnet previously and big wing on he boot. Has compliance and previous rego in my name. Nothing dodgy here. Engine will be removed upon sale of shell. Consider compliance $2000, Rear subframe/diff $800, interior $800, Shell $2000 with front panels plus aircon and all 4wd electronics. Newish windscreen. Its a good little deal. Comes with Cirlar 18x9.5 pair rims. Engine $4000 HKS oversized forged pistons to make it a 2.7 litre. Extremely smooth/quiet running engine. Has only ever been run at under 280rwkw because of being safe side of injector limited with standard injectors/afm's. It has made 300rwkw with -5's on dyno but didn't want to run it with inj's maxed so turned the boost down a few psi and retarded the ignition. It will come as a whole package with loom, ECU, afm's, all sensors, standard turbo's. Have never had a need to have the engine out of the car so unsure if its a R33 motor and what else has been done to it. G/box $600 R32 GTR gearbox with tight transfer case. No noises and good syncro's. Comes with shifter. Push type Diff $400 Thought it was an aftermarket diff and so did eveyone who drove the car but on removal it seems to be a tightly shimmed standard diff which I believe is a 1.5 way from factory. Locks inner wheel while turning. Clutch $1,500 OS Giken triple plate clutch with hardly any wear on plates or basket. Their $3000 new. Nice clutch to drive with for the clamping force it provides. I have a fettish with this clutch. Didn't want to part with it. Turbo $1,300 Garret -5 turbos with around 15000km's on them. Come with adjustable actuators Dumps/front/exh $500 Custom 3 inch dump pipes with 3 inch front pipes into 3.5inch merger to 3inch cat flange. These provide massive amounts of flow. Intercooler $300 100mm FMIC. Unknown brand but it flows well and never had any knock so it must cool well. Solid end tanks. Tube/fin. Shocks+susp package $2000 Bilstein shocks form a production car that upgraded to DMS. Valved by Syndeykid back in the day and adj height. By far the best money I ever spent on my car. Car is so settled no matter what I ever do with it. The car has run a 1.23 at Sandown with these on normal road tyres (not semi's or high $ tyres) and $15 rear brake pads and cheap rotors all round with 280rwkw. I did go quicker but WRX club pulled the timing gear on the last sessions. Wish I knew what it did. Was def in the 22's. Also comes with Cusco upper arms, strut braces, Tein castor rods and whiteline swaybars with extra adj holes. This will make you go faster for cheaper than any amount of money you spend on your engine. Go quick smarter with less high breakages caused by high power. P1 QF's $2000 18x10 +18 or +12 offset. Need to check. These are the second lightest forged wheel you can buy without magnesium being added as extremely rare now. Less unsprung weight and with no impurities their strong. Over $900 each to buy new if you can find them. Massive cooling due to the thin spoke design. Still have original paint but its fairly chipped up. Would require painting or powder coating. These would normally sell for $2500 so I have factored in the price of you getting them restored to the colour of your choice. Come with Hankook Evo 265 tyres. 2 good, 2 bald. Suit R32, R33, R34 GTR of flare your GTST like Russman. PFC and HC $750 Comes with hand controller. Serial Number PFC GTR33 020-1387. Has tune to suit -5 turbo's from RE Customs with std inj an afm's Defi $250 Defi boost gauge with controller/logger Boost control $250 HKS EVC 4 boost controller. Manages boost very well. No spiking 4wd controller $100 4wd controller I built from a Jaycar 0-5V kit. Setup perfectly for light push on turn in to 4 wheel powerslide on exit corner. Well balanced Single clutch $250 Exedy 4 puck button clutch with very little wear. Comes with standard flywheel. Bolt it straight into your car Slicks $250 4 x Pirelli P Zero slicks with a lot of life still left in them. A car recently used them to try and break a Nurburgring record. 265 width to suit 18inch rim. Wing $650 Ex VT K-Mart racing V8 supercar wing. Carbon fibre with gelcoat finish. Harrop Machined struts. It dinted the back of my boot in at PI due to downforce. Over $3k new with struts. Wing only weights a couple kg's. Nismo instrument cluster $250 320kmh instrument in R32 GTR cluster. Pretty sure speedo could be removed and placed into a R32 GTST cluster easily. Harness $150 Race harness I only used a couple of times purchased from Meridian. Always boxed when not in use. Need to check brand. Data Consult $100 Data Consult to suit R32. Haven't plugged it in in years. Not sure if it had the 2 afm/02 readouts. Pretty sure it did. Handy diagnostic tool. F&RbBrakes + braided line$800 324mm upgraded brakes with slotted new RDA rotor and UAS caliper spacer. RDA don't crack like DBA. Braided lines all round with solid metal crimped fittings. Few sets used brand name front pads. Reco'd calipers with new seal kits and paint. These only did one track day and a few km's on the street before it was parked. Chip burners for two $100 Burnt a few chip to remove limiters and copy others. Will burn 28? pin eproms. Also has eraser. Its a Jaycar kit type. Have 2 of these. Turbo timer $25 Need to check brand. Skirts - Trust Gracer $300 These are genuine Trust Gracer side skirts to suit R32 GTR. They in my opinion are the best/toughest looking skirt to suit a 32 with wide wheels. Better quality than anything I have seen in Australia. Have a search on Google images. Rear pods $100 Fibreglass rear pods to suit R32 GTR. Straight out of mould. Grill $100 R32 GTR grill in black Guard liners /tray set $150 Set in good condition. One of the brake dusts has been worn a little on fwd edge. Will not seperate ducts. R32 GTR/GTST Towbar $125 To suit all R32's. Tounge removes so it cannot be seen. I made it myself It has towed a 17ft boat at 100kmh without a problem. Prob wouldn't recommend it though. Good to used with a 6x4 to move bikes or furniture. Saves needing a second car. I'm at the south end of Melbourne but get around a little so might be able to meet some of you closer if I'm out and about. If you would like pictures could you please PM me with your email address. Could you please not ask these questions "Would you sell the oil squirters seperately". Use your common sense people

Pulled the clutch out yesterday. It is im great condition and has an astronomical amount of surface area to grip on. Also have the PFC out Serial Number PFC GTR33L 020-1387 Turbo's and dumps will be removed today

I made my own 10 years ago out of some 8mm steel plate and welded on lugs before you could buy adapters. Scabbed the steel so they cost $0. Weight wasn't issue due to the small amount used. Only took half hour to make after a few hours making a mdf template. Also had less pad overhang than bought adapters you get today. GTST to GTR rotors. Recommend giving it a go! Mine survived many track and few drift days without ever loosening.

If MattR33 buys the parts he's interested in I will not be selling the engine or sinlge clutch. Pics will be taken next week after removal. All other parts will still be available. Also PFC serial number will be listed.

Deano 1 the turbo's are still on the car. There is no damage to the impeller or turbine wheels. They have adjustable wastegate actuators. Back next week and can take photo's then. The turbo's were good when I last looked and the car has hardly been driven since then. Only started occasionally. Hence the reason for sale. Is there anything you particulary want a picture of? Can't get exhaust wheel pics unless I can get a borescope camera.

Don't really understand why a pic of an engine is your most important request. I'd be more interested in compressions etc. In the US for another week so I'll take a few when I get back.

RB26DETT Engine.... I bought my car out of Japan with this motor in it and stock turbo's fitted. N1's were in the boot when I recieved it. It definantly has different pistons to standard. They are HKS forged pistons worth $2k on their own. Adjustable cam gears also fitted. There is a good chance it has also been balanced as it is extremely smooth through the whole rev range and no rattles. No reciepts obviously. As for pics its just a rb26 with silver rocker covers and the valley + timing cover removed. Inlet plenum could do with a paint which you would do easily when the engines out of the car. It has only ever had stock injectors and still does. Originally the engine was tuned for 300rwkw but this was reduce a few PSI so about now around 280rwkw for longevity. Still in the car and running atm. Will be sold with standard turbo's, dumps and sump/diff Looking for $4000 Pair of Garrett -5 turbo's with minimum km's. The car has been garaged and de-registered soon after fitting $1350 Custom made 3" dumps. Twin 3" to 3.5" front pipe $350 Possibly has 3" flange cat end? OS Giken triple plate clutch with sprung centre and flywheel. Push type. Prob 80%. Around $3k new. $1500 Spins 4 wheels easily Excedy 4 Button solid centre push type clutch (loads meat) with standard flywheel to suit RB engines $250 PFC and hand controller with tune to suit -5's or N1's removed form R32 GTR $750 100mm FMIC $300 HKS EVC 4 boost controller $250 Defi Boost gauge, controller and cup $250 After market diff suit R32 GTR $700 Still need to check brand. Its very tight and no noises. Please don't message for other parts. This is all I have available Located south side of Melbourne

Booki that is all fine in the internet world but doesn't happenin the real world. No one looks at a bike that closely ever. You'll know when you find a good one straight away. I would get someone who has ridden and worked on bikes to see/ride it before you paid the final amount. Just put a $50 deposit down if your keen. 95% people will accept it. I've been riding since I was 14 so had a fair few bike over the years. Both road/dirt and they get abused..and worked on. Over 50,000kms on the road plus who knows how many in the bush and at the mxtrack. To be truthfull buying a road bike is pretty much the same as buying a high end pushy. There not that big an investment and they love to cop a thrashing. If it feels tight and is rediculously clean and owned by a festidous person with reciepts it'll be ok at a guess. If the owner is from the western suburbs or paky way for example you may need to think twice about it. You know what I mean. Don't take offence people. Most of what goes wrong with bike is an easy fix for a few hundred dollars if you give it a go. To easy to work on. Love ebay! The main thing you want to look for that that speal didn't mention or I missed it is - Any abrasion to the bike..Fork bottoms, pegs, bar ends, all levers, rear end swinging arm, inside fairings for cracks, engine cases and the muffler. It it has been dropped you'll know in about 20 seconds. Second thing is if it has it doesn't really matter if it wasn't to hard a drop. I've dropped mine doing a stoppie and also on a resurfaced road. They were both slow speed buy the time it hit the ground it did a lot of big dollar damage if you replaced it to be like new but it doesn't effect the bike at all and you can hardly notice it from 2 metres. Didn't replace anything after it. Just bent the clutch lever back. Could be a good way to save a grand or two. No matter what you think you will drop it one day. I don't know anyone who hasn't at some stage. If you don't feel comfortable its prob not for you. You'll become a real temporary Asutralian!! Also smoke on startup( make sure engines cold, touch it) and on decel when warm when revved. If its your first bike and your not into speeding you don't need $2000 leathers. If a car hits you or runs over you the quality of your leathers won't help at all. They mainly effect how long you can slide before it wears though. Most decent gear will get you through a 100kmh stack. A $300 helmet meets the same standard as a $800 but it weighs a little less. Try to get an aramide one. Don't trust plastic myself. Also good good gloves. Not a $80 pair. Get some like the races wear. You know their good for 300kmh offs. My good alpinestars has have lasted years and over 30,000km's so far with no wear but cost $300. I need my hands, don't know about you? I'd buy my gear after getting a bike myself. I'd rather a better bike and not so flashy gear but still good quality gear. Thats me though. Less image and more go for the money. Birds never ever spoken to anyone ever who has bought a bike depending on how it feels with your gear on. Never ever, ever, ever heard that before. Did a salesman tell you that. In the end if you like a bike how it looks/rides and has everything you want just buy it. Expecially if your only spending 4k. No LAMS bikes look good in my opinion. I'd just buy a real 600 for that money and risk the overpowered fine. But thats me. Rules are for breaking.......Even my first road bike is banned now a KR1S 2 stroke but only cost 1k. Was just off matching a 600cc. Ps - 250 4 strokes are like riding lawnmower powered push bikes, so slow.. Don't expect to much power to feel scared of. You'll be right. The plus side - Cheap to commute on!

I have a complete car I could do for around $5k atm complied and rolling with interior and rear subframe and std suspension. No brakes and on old rims. The one in my avatar. Let me know....

I have a rb26 with no rattles or knocks that I would be willing to part with. It has HKS forged pistons. The car never gets driven anymore. It has only ever been driven at 280rwkw because I didn't want to risk a rebuild ever because of the time and money involved plus blowing g/box's and driveshafts. This engine will last forever at that power level. It has adj cam gears and std injectors etc. The car now only gets started every now and then in the shed because the rear diff is half out of it and the rego wasn't paid.

I have some Buddy Club P1 QF that are the second lightest wheel that is forged out there without magnesium added. 18x10 with around 20mm offset. They are white and would need to be powder coated or painted due to melting some pads. Tyres are cactus on them but I have a set of slicks available also. Would be looking for just over 2k. The rims are about $900 each to buy new.

Is this std style?

Won't split swaybars from the rest of the package. It works together to well.

Just bought a 4.8 litre patrol with a haltech cheap. A mate has one turbo'd and you couldn't believe the torque. Looking to fit something like a xr6 turbo or bigger. Let us know what you have. No looking to spend much more than 10 Also will be needing some 600cc or similar injectors.

Replied to few pm's. Offers. Just bought a GU Patrol TB48DE that I'm going to turbo. So all the old skyline parts need to go.