Rowdyr32

If have wheel at -5 and +1 toe on the front and still drove to Sydney for track time. Will scrub the tyres. If the car doesn't pull to hard to either side it can't be to bad. Depends on how much you care about you tyres. Its easy to adjust. Toe out the left wheel or toe in the right. You can do it in 5 minutes and then go for a drive. Has to be better than what you have currently.

Just buy a new clutch......

Power steering cooler?? Aren't you strong enough? I'll wouldn't mide trying the old rack?

I you ran a 1.47 at EC a 1.48 should easily be on the card for your car at PI. It'll kind of make the gtrs look pretty bad if you can do it since they have an extra 50-120kw atw more than you and 4wd and they only lap one or two seconds quicker. If I reinforce my boot/wing you should borrow it. Last time at PI it put some nice dints in it. Might help with a bit of rear end grip. Hanging to try left foot break tap into turn 12 under power one day at PI. Think theres some time in it. Heard a supercar guy talking about it to transfer the weight foward for that turn. Sounds the go.

Most don't know suspension basics so aero is out..... More power, big brakes, soft tyres... Can't drive round corners so keep it flat on the straights. I haven't seen a car at any of the trackdays I've been to that has had any real aero tested/developed on it in vic. I've been doing heaps of reading atm about areo but don't have the time to fab something up. A mate at his work has just fitted a sprintcar out with load cells on the wing and pyro's? on the suspension to data log the car to optimise everything. Said nobody has done it before in sprintcars. Makes sense. Yeah. Talked about on the worst scripted show ever. Sorry I just can't stand it!! The hosts are lame. Russman .. Awesome work. You would be doing pretty much the same time as the 300kw gtr's when we went up there a while ago. Really surpised at that time for what you have. Bang for buck your car would have smashed them all!!!! I'll lend you the wing for next year. It has to do something. The monash wind tunnel can only be run flat out in certain times of day and months due the the amount of power it draws out of the grid. Pretty sure somebody told me it was around $10k an hour to hire it. Truth I don't know. Little upset I didn't bum a lift up there now Nearly all of those times have really stepped it up for anyone from now on wanting some cred.

Do you want a diffuser or a splitter? Does it have to work or will it just be for looks? Diffusers require a lot of knowledge and testing from what I've been reading where as splitters seem to work if you follow the basic guide. Don't think you will get a diffuser in Vic made without massive dollars. I've seen the rear diffusers that a bodykit guy in vic makes and there just a pretty looking piece of fibreglass The common jap diffusers I doubt have ever been tested because they are shaped to sell not to work! If you want a splitter just make your own. Read other bits of the forum aswell heaps of diy stuff http://www.timeattackforums.com/forums/aer...d-splitter.html Theres some really good links I think in the canards section to wind tunnel testing.

I made my own adapter to run the 324mm rotors on my 32gtst about 8 years ago before I had even heard of anybody else doing it. I was a piece of piss. I think I used around 6 or 8 mm plate and a couple weld on spacers. Took a little while (few hours) to get the wooden template right and about an hour to make. Obviously had been done by someone somewhere before me as it an easy upgrade. The gtst calipers are almost the same length pad as a brembo and the only real difference is the brembo pad is about a 1/4 inch higher. Go the bigger dia. Its a 10% bigger dia. Don't think Zebra gets it as what you want it is the extra braking force from the larger dia disk plus they run cooler since they don't have to do as much work. UAS sell the adapters.

Paint the floor is like the other guys said is the first thing I would do. Easy to sweep up dust and oil spill plus it lights the place up a huge amount. We painted the work floor in some generic paint and 3 years later it hasn't bubbled or scratched though. It had had a fair bit of oil on it to before painting. Also paint the walls white. It refects the light off the walls so you don't get the shadows when working in the engine bay or inside. I have one single car shed with 2 fluros and a double car with 2 fluros. The double has painted walls and is brigher than the single car garage. I haven't done it yet but have been thinking about getting some free standing secondhand food prep benchs off ebay. Pretty sure the sell for around $150 each. Full stainless steel frame and top. Some come with sinks also. If your staying there for a while mount a few random power points and plumbed in air line with a few outlets, one on the bench and one near where you work on the car and one near the door. Works great with the coil air lines. Saves having a hose and compressor your alway tripping over. Only would cost prob $150 to do. If somebody knows where to get cheap pallet racking let me know.

xf falcon. I've had 4 over the years on gas and $35 will get 450km's. They have never broken down and can tow the gtr easy. Should get one with 12 months reg for $1000. I use them to tow the boat. Corolla's are awesome cars aswell. Any year from early 80's to now. I've seen the abuse they can take! Haven't paid over $1000 for my last 4 daily's and they all came with 12 months reg. 2 xf's, 2001 xsara and a 1990 Triton.

I saw a cop hiding behind a power pole today about 50mtrs after the start of the bus lane in his fluro vest. Couldn't see his car until I went aroun the corner. For some strange reason not as many people where using the lane compared to other days. It should be a three lane road and only a bus zone after 8.30am. Sucks they got you the first time!

Think I did about 30 or more km's during the day. The arvo was fun as Paul said as not many people kept running. I'll be taking the bike there again so if anybody else want a bike/s towed up there let us know. My fingers just about dropped off riding up there last time and then saw Daz with his on a trailer Fun day out!

I'll come along. My things been sitting in the shed for half a year now so it might be time to give it a run. You ll need to remember a bike has a much larger apex through a corner than a car and how many of your cars can run mid 10's stock? I could drive my car a way fast though the twisties than my bike but its only becase I don't have the tallent/balls to push the bike that hard without stacking and can't afford it atm. It'll be good to see a few of you on the pegs.

I tow a 17ft ski boat a my bikes up the bush with my gtr over in little pic under my user name. Only prob is you need to pull the fuse for 4wd at the ramp to get the boat out. Made it myself and at a guess the bat would weight about 900kg with fuel and trailer. Tows it easily. They should as they weigh the same as a commodore.

Most brake places will copy them for you. About $40 each I paid for braided lines with the steel fittings. Not the ones with crimped rubber sleeves. That was a couple of years ago from brake joint on Moorabbin Airport

Just a question. How are you correcting the roll centre of the car by lowering the bodies mass further down towards the ground in relation to the suspension geometry. Most people run their cars higher because you need the mass of the car higher to to apply the weight onto the wheels. Wouldn't you need to run massive roll centre adjusters/spacers on your lower ball joints to now correct your roll centre through suspension geomentry? It just goes against what I have been told. Possibly you should have raised your lower and upper arm mountig points on the sub frame to correct for the lowering of the centre of gravity. I think I have read one of the track guys (Duncan?) did the same mod as you but rasied his sup mounting points to correct geomentry. Its about the cars mass centre and something to do with an angle through your susp arms to where they land on the ground. Your mod would have pushed it out way beyond the wheels? Its a really good mod to keep your driveshafts in one piece and its also good to see people out there actually working on their own cars and having a go. Let me know if I'm completely wrong?

Was in Launceston the last couple day doing Greg Crick's helicopter. Ownes the Dodge Viper in the Aus GT series. Would have grabbed the N1 water pump off you and the clutch while I was there. Work maintains a few choppers down there so I might hit you up if you have the gear still available soon. Could you pm me your number incase. Cheers

Birds and Charlie. Why do you ride then? If you know the odds are against you and dislike the idea of hurting yourself. Of course people tempt the inevitable. There is a chance your going to eat it badly at some stage. We're not dumb. Those of us that do push it like a rush and it is an easy fix with a bike. I like the saying "If you don't try you'll never learn". I'll give most things a go. Even if I can't do it properly I'll try it to see and learn from there. Its all a mental state. I take a calculated risk on all things I do. If I know I can't do it without guaranteeing a date with the hostpital I won't do it. If I know I can kind of or should be able to its worth a try. Wish I could do impromptu crazy things but I'm to sensible. I've met Birds and he was a nice guy but seems very straight and sensible. Not the kind to go hard and push it. Am I right? Ride sensibly in most peoples eyes all of the time. Don't try doing anything with real risk on the bike due to the chance of stacking? Haven't done over 200kmh on the road on your bike? There are two stories to every tale. You have made your point that bikes are bad and you both obviously side sensibly with as little risk as possible. If you like living that way it is probably wise. Odds are you don't push a car very hard either. From all the people I know who are quick car drivers on the track they nearly all ride bikes apart from Newton and a couple others. If you know the ones I'm talking about they all have the give it a go attitude! The ones who don't have bikes don't seem to be able to push the extra little bit. They just don't have with the confidece to push out the times their cars are capable of mainly due to thinking to much about consiquences. Life is short and your dead a long time so you might as well live it.

You might ride and give it a go but do you ride to the limit? I don't know you but most bikes on the limit road or dirt slide very similar from my experiance. After riding dirt a lot you don't poo your pants when the backs sliding on the road out of corners or start bucking (power out and don't backoff where if you did backoff you would crash)or when the bike kicks because the rear wheel wasn't touching the ground and was sideways when breaking hard into a corners. Well if you have riden a new 2 stroke 250 dirty its takes a lot more control than a hayabusa. I'm not kidding anybody. You can cruze on a road bike with ease. Hit powerband with only a medium amount of throttle on a new 2 stroke dirt bike expecially on road and you'll end up on your back sliding down the road before you've even realized whats happened. Road bikes they lift a lot slower and a lot more controlable power. By the sounds of it most of you have ridden bikes but I have been riding with many guys who talk up how good they are at riding and I'm nothing special but still kick their ass. So they were pretty bad. I read a proffesional motorcycle review in a mag where a guy ran a high 11 on a busa. WTF any monkey even my unco mates could crack a 10 without trying so I'm just trying to say that some people talk the talk but are shit riders giving info to guys who can ride a lot better and have a lot more experiance. I'm with Cowboy1600. Your all just scare mungers pretending bike are the most evil road going object in the world. In all my years of riding and yes Birds I lane split in moving traffic have only ever had a few times where things could have gone bad if I wasn't concentrating. The old man has ridden for 50 years and has only ever broken bones. Inc riding through Europe for many years. He has had a few mates die from bike but it doesn't stop him. Some people have a real passion for it. Agree one of the posts here. If your not confident don't do it. I hate guys who lane split at the lights and then take off like grandma's or ride only just in control. You will die! They rate the same as cylcists. Most are try hard Harley's or scooters. Really glad none of you have mention getting one of them yet. Lots of respect. I love getting out in the bush with a few mates cruzing around fire trails but don't really like them due to 4x4's and other riders. The go is all of the goat trails that run off these tracks between tracks. Some flowing and fast and others tight and technical. Thats what I really like the different styles required in so many different terains. The enduro 4 bangers are the go. They just go and go and go. DRZ400 I don't think I've ever heard anything bad about them. Some good point Mistamidget. If you want to go bush I have mates out there every weekend so hit us up it you want a ride. We need some more quick riders to try and beat my fast mates. Dr Envy you made some good point to. I've never egged anybody on to do somthing they would/could hurt themselves badly. Also agree on the if your not aware don't ride. Prob the biggest point people need to know. I've never crashed a car on the road or ever had a speeding fine in either bike or car due to always knowing whats around. Have stacked the road bike but one time was doing a stoppie behind a mate and the other was at the end of the street after it had been resurfaced only with loose gravel and no signs. Bit councils fault and some mine. Bit of a bored rant for you all...

You don't know that you would have crashed it because you never gave it a go. Riding a 250 road bike 4 stoke is like riding a lawnmover powered pushie.. Even Vicroad is finally getting it with the restricted 600's vs 250's. Dirt bike moves around a million times more than a road bike. A P plater could drive a 600hp skyline easily with throttle control. Bike are the same with the right hand. If he's ridden a dirt bike he can ride a big road bike. Don't really see what your all fussing about a bike is a bike. Just buy one and ride it. Doesn't matter if its a 250 or a 1300. There all the similar to ride. Two wheels and all the controls are in the same position. You all need to stop keyboard bashing and get out there and give it a go. Ash the Ducati's do look and sound awesome but from what I've heard thats about all their good for. If somebody was go give me one cheap I wouldn't say no though. Troy that Russian chick might be on my fettish list. I noticed the hole in the cast. MMM.... Very Nice!

There for wogs going for a coffea in Lygon st or cafe's in StKilda. I've been riding the stupid many times on the road. Expecially after a couple beers. Still Legal though. It loosens you up a bit. Prob safer riding that way. 130kmh mono's down the freeway FUN. Your more likely to plow into a tree in the bush at 80kmh than crash on the road. Tree's don't move. I'd say its safer on the road. I almost stacked at over 100 in a tee shirt one street from my folks. Odd feeling all I coulfd think about was how my old lady would react seeing me lumped in a gutter. Things go realy slow mentally when shits about to happen. If you think about the outcome of everything you may as well wrap yourself up in a blanket and stay at home. People who dismiss bikes are usually the one who never do anything out of there comfort zone or finish doing something and end with best feeling adrenalin shakes afterwards. Don't buy a 250 or resticted 600. Just go the better bike straight out of the box or if your worried wait a year and buy the real thing. 250's are a waste of time and money in my opinion.

Bikes shit on cars for fun and performance anyday plus you just park them anywhere. Guys on std road bikes even 600's worth under 20k new along with massive balls can run around PI well under 1.40. Nobody in any street car can even go near that. Plus the cars that go quick break all the time and don't even push near those times. I think the newer bikes can even run low 10's or even 9's on the 1/4. Can an everyday car ever do that. I think not. Do I need to say more. I'd go the motard option easily. Easy to wheelie and possibly stoppie for you in the future! Plus you can gutter bash and evade the po po using walking lanes if you think there going to chase/hassle you. Motard only though if your riding around the street. Motard might get a bit stressed on long hauls. Wouldn't go a vtr as I rode a sp2 and thought it was rubbish. No bottom end and the run rough. 4 cylinders are a heap better to ride and more responsive. I've ridden bikes a bit. My current bike is a cbr954. It has never given me a problem in 6 years and 35000km's I've done on it. Honda's or Yamaha are the go. Also have a WR400 awsome bike that I can't kill and it cops a hard time. Best bush bike out there for reliability. Plus have a RMZ250 07 I'm building to club race. Go the big bike because everybody you speak to who aren't soft wish they just spent the extra and bought the 1000. A 600 could spit you off and a 1000 is the same. Its all in the right hand... If your a hack and going to stack it doesn't matter what your on it going to happen anyway. Loose in the steering shouldn't make you highside Charlie. Might spit you off but thats called headshake. Just power out of it. Back off and you stack. If thats what you mean? A highside is when your under power out of corners and the back sides out and bites. Riding dirt bikes helps a lot. I've alway ridden them. Best fun you can have with your mates where nobody is ever going to hassle you and you get the best addrenalin rush. Getting back into dirt bikes at the moment and have no real desire to drive the gtr atm. Just doesn't do it for me anymore. Doesn't give the "I could f myself up right now" feel. Slowly converting a few of the SAU guys out there. They love it. Bummer on the new hoon laws. Used to spend a heap of time in the breaside industrial estate doing mono's and just being wreakless with mates. Heaps of fun. Really miss it actually. Used to be good area for a few drift session too! Buy one! Do it! It'll make your skyline seem like a kombi. Ran a 10.7 at Heathcote and I couldn't launch it properly. Bikes prob only worth $6k. Used to ride it everyday for 4 years. If you want a motard/upright feeling bike that is good to ride I'd look at a xjr1300 yamaha. Their cheap. Very comfortable, the stunt guys used to uses them. They seem like a very fun bike. Just an idea. Not a motard at all really. More of a sports tourer but worth a look.

You might be a mechanic. Nice and I hope you enjoy it. I'm not a job knocker if people enjoy it. As for myself.. I've spent one year as a diesel mechanic. 8 years as a AME working on all aspects of Rolls Royce 250 series gas turbine engines from strip all the way down/inspect/assemble then dynoing them. These engines were worth between $350000 to $650000 depending on model. Completed 3 crash investigations with Rolls Royce America investigators and ATSB finally ending up as leading hand teaching guys twice my age and industy time. I also have a level 2 licence in non destructive testing in both magentic particle and dye penetrant. I know how metals behave in different heat and stress situations and how they crack. Also spent a few months before quiting as the head dyno operator for DSI (Borg Warners R&D centre). I'm currently contracting a licenced aircraft maintenance engineer on R22's up to multi million dollar AS350B3's and BK's. We've had heaps of piston engines apart and together. Nothing to them mate. The difference is in my trade if it stops or breaks it could cost a big $ part or worst case somebody could die. Hope this never happens. So far in my 10 years aviation experiance I haven't made any major mistakes. Nothing has ever stopped or broken. Touch wood. They just doesn't stop on the side of the road. I know air is easier. Thats what we use at work when removing the rockers. As for the oil comment you said "Do not suggest people put things down cylinders and are you aware of the kind of force you are applying to the rod, gudgeon pin and big end bearing? All with no oil to protect it. It's a f**king stupid idea and if anyone does it, they need their frickin head examined." What does "all with no oil to protect it" mean then? Why did you mention it? Maybe you need to read your own writing. I've pulled apart a hydraulic'd diesel a mate stupidly tried tow starting a 4x4 after putting it on its side. 3 bent rods. So I've pulled apart a stationary hydraulic locked motor. Would have had a lot more than 4thou bent it them and they were diesel rods! Doesn't mean anything. Not really. What your talking about with a running motor is completely different. If the engine hydraulic'd at idle it was spinning at atleast 850rpm. Thats a lot of force with the harmonic balacer, 6 rods and pistons, crack, flywheel and clutch prob weighting 25 or more kg trying to stop all of a sudden/instant. If you know how a fly press works it the same as a running engine thats hydraulic locked when running. Its going to be a shit load more force than 250nm requided to stop that thing spinning in a millisecond. Probably not even 10000nm would stop it spinning that quickly. Your not making a very valid response. Competely different situation. You keep talking about 250nm. Its not much 180ftlb. It isn't a very large amount of force and it a torsional force. A motor makes its torque by the arm leverage on the crank and the piston area. That where they create their torque. Doesn't matter if its spinning or stationary. Force is force. A rod compresses and stretches in each cycle and I'm talking about the compression force on the rod. They can take several tons. Its never going to bend or break undoing a little flywheel bolt. Your only going to bend a rod in a vice because you were stupid enough not to clamp it in the right position. Of coarse it would bent. What did you think would happen? Never been silly enough to do it. Their designed for compression/tension. Not torsion! I'm not in for any keyboard warrior stuff it just you don't seem to understand what your talking about. From what I have experienced with people I know, tradeschool is as good as useless these day at teaching. Only teaching the basics . I know a few mechanics that have a lack of knowledge in basic engineering principles. You might need to do a little reading or night school in engineering to freshen up your understanding of recipricating piston engines and the forces acting on them before posting again. Its simple! Guys at work had a laugh when I told them what you wrote. Yes you can do it your way but there is more than one way in life. Don't get blinded.. From your previous posts my left testicle is more than safe for the mean time. Just hanging there with it bro safely.

Sorry mate have to beg to differ.... What qualifications/calcuations are you basing your comments on? If you don't have the adapter or an air compressor the rope it the way to go to hold valves up. The force to crack the flywheel bolts is going to be a lot less than a rb20 spinning at 8500rpm with 20psi jambed down the cylinder. Bend a rod with less than a few hundered lb force pushing directly down on. Yeh right. Shear a gudgeon pin. Good luck you'll never manage it with the small amount of pressure. Piston will be damaged before the pin. If the big end bearings have taken many times the cracking torque of the flywheel bolts for hundereds of housands of km's at 3500rpm I think it would be more than safe. Lubrication isn't going to protect anything so I don't think you really have that much of an idea on how oil is going to protect a stationary part with such a small amount of force on it. Anyway there would still be residual oil in there. What do you think happens the instant your car engine fires but also its spinning producing heat in the mix. I'd be safe in guessing you could put over 2 tons force in a press on a rb20 rods and it still wouldn't bend. We alway feed different objects into cylinders after doing valve reams without removing the head to guide the valves back into the guides. A piece of rope. Seriously mate what is a piece of rope going to do? Expecially when it gets pulled out anyway. What a stupid idea? When have you ever pressed on steel with rope and damaged it? I don't know it all but would bet my left testical that there is now way in hell any damage is going to be done and if you have been silly enough to leave/drop bits down the cylinder of an engine before like other car workshops have over the years maybe only you shouldn't be working on engines. You seem very scared of objects in engines!!! I've never left anything in an engine and there worth a fair bit more than a piston engine. So don't see the problem. Flywheel bolts aren't a big torque. A corroded on harmonic balancer bolt which takes a 2 metre pole with the weight of a man hanging on it your comments might be valid. But only the damaging bearings point or as extra I would have said the piston. Not the gudgeon pin (shear force) or rod (compression). Just having a dig because I hate it when people on forums big not themselves when a person states a valid point backed up by another user that does the job and would work safely. People commonly use 3/4 inch rattle guns on the harmonic balacer bolts. I'd imagine you would have a lot more chance of damaging bearings that way with the sudden impact through the engine but I doubt this would do anything either compared to the massive forces within an engine. Are they fkn idiots too? Could you please tell me the forces after making this comment "are you aware of the kind of force you are applying". Are you? I know its not much mate and a pretty simple calculation. Can you tell them if I'm such a fkn idiot and don't know! Make them aware of this massive danger!

Put it on top dead centre on one of the cylinders and then feed rope into the cylinder to stop the motor turning over. Easy!! Same as what you do to change valve springs without removing the head.

Sorry but had to say this + free bump Get a life!!!!! Looser.....