beastien

Hey Grant, what brand oil relocation kit is that, looks like a good fit. Did you have to move the fuel filter mount? and does it have ports for pressure sender etc?

Do you have an alarm? if so it could be an override switch.

Does that mean when mines converted, I can be a Mod too

Cheers Andy, I'm EXCITED

FMIC would be a necessity.

Well I'm happy to say, my conversion has officially started Pulled the auto out over the weekend. Will update as it progresses.

I think it could be possible, just need another guinea pig

Hey Gary, you must still have the antenna loom with the blk/yel wire in it though? Thats definately the one to power up for the antennas.

I'm almost certain, specially after looking at an R33 service manual, that they have a separate Auto trans ECU, unlike the stagea which is incorporated into the engine ECU. Thats the only way it could work. Maybe it would be possible to put an auto ECU from an R33 into the stagea to control the transmission, and run the engine from a Power FC or such. More than keen to share my findings mate

Hey SK, it's been a while since I did mine, but I think the yellow and black wire went to the deck. I definately know that it's part of the antenna harness that comes to the deck.

That was lucky, it's the only way to get decent reception. I've found it's not quite as good as a normal antenna, eg: if you go in an underground carpark etc, you completely lose reception, and won't pick up quite as far over distance, But it's damn close.

Heres some pics of the adaptor I made, just make sure you insulate the centre cores from the screens when your done soldering them together, or you'll end up with no reception. Might stick some heatshrink on it, to tidy it up, and make it more secure.

I found that you have to hard wire both connections coming from both diversity antennas together and into a standard plug to get the best reception. If you just use an adaptor plug, you will be only using one antenna.

Definately has to be a manual Brendan, Power FC has no facility or connections to control the auto box unfortunately. I'll actually be starting my conversion this weekend, and the PFC will be going in afterwards. I just wanted to plug it in and see what happened, Theres been a bit of talk about the R34 version not being compatible with the S1, and modifications being needed. I knew it would work because Ska's seems to work fine, and I thought I would be the next guinea pig, and work it out for myself. What I have found is very promising, and it's looking alot easier to acheive than first thought. Once everything is finalised, I will gladly post my findings, and answer any questions.

Good stuff, I didn't even think of taking the instrument cluster out

Three of the injectors are definately on different pins, but they are just mixed around with each other, this is why the engine still ran, the injectors would be firing at the wrong time, but the timing is so close, it still ran under no load. If you drove it like this you would definately notice it. Also I have found out through someone in the forced induction section, and confirmed it with the R34 service manual and Stagea S2 service manual, that the VCT is basically the same between the R33 and R34, it's ON/OFF. The only difference is the R34 has been designed so it comes on alot more smoothly. There are a few sensor differences aswell, but from studying the service manuals, they won't make any difference to the running of the engine. I think they are mainly to do with the more intricate R&R mapping that R34's have.

I didn't find it that hard to get to the bolt above the A/C duct. Just had to push it out of the way a little, used a socket with extension and forced it onto the bolt. I found it more difficult to actually get the pedal assy out, and the new one in.

I know of two. From my testing experiences recently, having the TPS unplugged brings it on, and also pulling out the 4WD relay under bonnet brings it on.

I do have a consult cable, but no decent software to run with it. I think I will have to purchase some eg: Nissan data scan. Cheers

Wont need to now, thanks for the offer though mate, much appreciated. Working afternoon shift aswell, till 11pm, so wouldn't be able to make it. I'm reasonably satisfied that the CAS is ok now, I'm looking at the MAF sensor now, will hopefully have an answer tomorrow. I've been searching the forum, and it seems as though the issue i'm having is very common. And no one seems to have a definate answer. So I'll keep prodding away, and will hopefully find something.

Ok, I've tested the output with the ocilliscope, and it looks fine compared to the service manual. Back to the drawing board. One thing I noticed yesterday before I started it the voltage from the MAF was 0.9 volts, manual says 0.2 volts. Didn't test it until after it was started today, and the voltage looked fine. Will have to test again tomorrow before startup. This is really getting annoying.

It is quite interesting, I'm finding, I've realised it's much easier to find a problem with the right gear and a full service manual. Talking about the right gear, i'm lucky enough to be able to borrow the ocilliscope from work, so I'll diagnose this sucker once and for all.

Or sometimes manual conversion packages come up on Yahoo auctions in Japan, have seen a couple.

Cheers mate, only have to get to the ecu plug, to take a voltage reading.

That'd be great Leshy, it would only take 15 minutes to get a reading. Give me a call, and we'll organise something. Cheers