beastien

I think your talking about the R34 PFC into a S1 stagea, but all you have to do is feed a voltage into the PFC and the A/C works fine.

Awe, can't you just feel the warmth coming off this thread Sounds like a great idea Nick.

It was great to meet Brycey and Joe and also catch up with Leshy again, also put some more faces to names, and have a bit of stagea talk. Can't wait for the show n shine. Hopefully will have mine dynoed by then.

I have an R34 GTT (same as RS4S S2 Stagea) master cylinder, and it's fine. Clutch has around 3200lb of clamp pressure.

I've got one mate, has a few scratches under the front lip though (happened after I lowered it), but besides that it's in good condition. It's silver too.

Ah, good old Aussie pioneering

Another Hunter based Stagea, good stuff, theres not many Stageas around here yet. Looks sweet mate, we'll have to organise a meet sometime.

Sounds like a master cyl problem. I read here somewhere that the seals turn inside out sometimes for no apparent reason.

I found you have to open the bleed nipples a fair way aswell, to get good flow.

Thats very strange, it took me ages though, to get fluid through mine. Thought it would never come through, but finally did. You might have to do it the traditional way, pump, pump, pump

You have two switches on the gearbox, two wires for each. Connect one wire from each switch to the power pin in the plug, then the other two wires coming back from the switches go to the reverse and neutral pins.

I just removed the wiring for the manual tranny switches from the manual loom, then made them into their own loom (very small only four wires). Then ran them up to where the auto wiring plugged in, beneath the battery. Pic of the manual switch wiring has been posted in the conversion thread.

Here you go Grant, and anyone else that might find it handy. Sorry for the lateness, got called into work late last night.

There will be a few plugs not used which are below the battery, this was the wiring for the auto control. The only two that are used are the one at the top, which you just put a jumper in (two pin plug) which is the starter inhibit. and the grey one below it which you use three pins, one for supply to your neutral and reverse switches and the return from your tranny switches, If you need some pics, should be able to help out. If you added the loom from the manual to the existing wiring, it will have all the plugs for oil pressure, knock sensors etc, which might explain the left over plugs.

Can you make them with holes for factory cooler piping? as I have a return style FMIC

Payment made and email sent. Quick question, did anyone give the dimension for the extra hole on the stagea guide? the one for the oil cooler bracket. also I noticed the first guide I bought didn't have enough cut out on the drivers side, for the horn bracket and the A/C condenser bracket. Has this been considered? If not let me know mate, and I'll get the details for you post hast. Cheers.

If it looks like this, it'll work.

Here's the pic of mine, drilled and ready to go

It's easy to find where the clutch master cylinder goes, it's right behind the foot handbrake, theres a plate with the holes in it, and you can clearly see where the holes are. You just have to drill them through the firewall. Will post a pic later tonight.

No need, will be trying it out for myself very soon, just waiting on a guy to do some welding for me, and the manual will be going in. CAN'T WAIT

Cheers mate, thats one thing I have been wondering about, and everone seems to think it will be really heavy. Good info

Or it could be because it is now positioned behind your FMIC.

It is the same part for all stageas

Just wondering if these are still for sale? they are side feed correct?

Hey Bass, I'll take one for a S1 Stagea, no scoop in black.