beastien

It's a very rare item, hardly even see them on the yahoo auctions. I had to buy mine genuine, around $800 complete, theres info and part numbers in the manual conversion thread.

Good stuff, welcome to the world of manual stageas

Looks as though the Greddy kit is only listed for the series 1 (i would nearly bet it fits the S2) but I can't guarantee it, the Blitz kit would definately suit though. Might be an idea to email Greddy and ask them if you want a definate answer. On the other hand, an S2 stock IC will bolt into an S1, so the piping is the same, so I would be confident the Greddy kit will fit the S2, the only problem might be with the trans cooler relocation, but that shouldn't be hard to overcome.

I just did a bit of looking on Nengun, and it looks as though Greddy have changed a few things around with their IC kits. the part numbers have changed. Also they only list them for the series 1, but I know for a fact the Blitz instructions show pictures of a series two for installation. Not sure about the Greddy kit though, will do some research and post later tonight.

Basically if you dont mind having the return pipe coming over the top of the fan in the engine bay, go for one of the cheaper R33-R34 style IC kits available in Aus. But if you want to go for the more stealthy type, it's either the Blitz LM or the Greddy V SPL. I would choose either of these over the ARC, as they have bigger cores. The Greddy utilises all factory piping from the standard IC, but the Blitz kit has extra piping that needs the factory air box to be replaced with a pod. Also both these kits are Stagea specific, so they come with hosing and brackets to relocate your auto trans cooler (they are a sinch to fit). Hope that makes it easier for you.

I've just looked through my emails from when I purchased mine, and 36010-0V700 is what I ended up with, it's the replacement for the part number 36010-0V705. It fits perfect with no problems at all.

Part number is 12020302, bought it from nengun.

I'm running the Greddy return style FMIC in mine, made for S1 and S2 stageas, easy to fit, minimal chopping (small amount from bar support). I've managed to squeeze 242rwkw out of it, and it would handle a bit more with the right mods.

What I did was remove the plate (which is just spot welded) from the tunnel, and spot welded a plate from a manual skyline in there, with the hole in it.

Well the mod I did wasn't exactly the same, but I'm running an R34GTT PFC in a series one and it runs fine, 242rwkw says it all.

My cold start is a bit funny as it still needs sorting out, but once it's warm it idles fine. What I noticed was that when I put the resistor in, the idle changed (lower or higher not 100% sure now). But I might give your method a go when I get some spare time, see if it makes any difference.

I wouldn't think so, the PFC is not looking for any auto connections. Mine is Series 1, and only had to connect the reverse and neutral switches into the auto harness.

Cheers Ian I'm so jealous of you going to japan. Oh and I forgot he he Was good to meet you.

Me three "weird" lol

I can confirm that the method that I have used in a series one converted to manual does work. But if the method Andy has shown is a better way of doing it, I'll give it a go. Anyone know if it would be the better way of doing it?

Hey Andy, I figured out something similar to achieve the same results. I just put a 510k ohm resistor from pin 51 on the ECU to ground, because pin 51 has around 5V coming out of it and you just have to lower that voltage to around 3.7v to turn off the engine check light. It seemed to affect the idle slightly aswell, did you notice that? But besides that, it runs fine, just have to get my cold start sorted out.

Cheers Joe Man that 2500R donk looked sweet, did they build it completely from brand new parts or what.

Cheers Fellas! Was very surprised, but very happy Was an awesome day, had a great time, was good to meet some of the other guys. Credit to the organisers, was very well put together.

Cheers mate, that's what we're here for . Be good to meet up some time, you should cruze down to the SnS with the rest of us. I'll have a look at the CV comparison later tonight, and see what the go is.

For your info, the stagea outer boot kit part number is 39241-50A92, and FAST shows it as being the same for the 260RS, GTS4 and GTR.

Got one here aswell if need be.

I think sometimes they can't be bothered sourcing import parts. I've used japanparts.com quite a few times now, and haven't had any problems, works out a bit cheaper than through Nissan aswell.

Hey Darrin, I bought a brand new S2 Stagea handbrake lever, through japanparts.com. Was around $140, and another thing, I've enquired about stagea parts through Nissan Aus, and they've told me they're not available, then I've enquired with japanparts.com, and they've been able to supply them. I'd give them a try, takes no longer than through nissan aswell, bout 2 weeks. S2 handbrake P/N: 36010-0V705

Count me in, that makes 3 Stageas. Oh and I'll be meeting you's at the wallsend servos

Entered and ready to go, Stagea was dynoed yesterday, so it's full steam ahead. Can't wait.