Denver

I actually think you right off the mark here.. Stock rims by nature, 99% of the time, are heavy as buggery, stock gt-r and gts wheels are no different here, they weigh a lot, compared to a big buck lightweight rim, say an advan RG, which even in 18x9 form comes in at around 19 pounds/8kg, given a stock wheels weight will be very simular to this, i don't see it as as a loss.. add to that you get a much wider tyre onto the rim, and a lot more lateral grip, the slight bit of extra rotational mass, is a pittance given the much faster lap tims you will get on a circut..

yes but not on the side windows, the curvature of the glass is pretty minute, a flat piece of plexi works fine, this will apply for 2 and 4 door models the rear window is a different msatter, and will require a custom job, you can get them out of japan tho, at some insane amount you CAN NOT replace the front windscreen with a plexi glass unit, in nearly every catergory of cams recognised racing, the only exceptions i can think of off hand, are sports cars, drags are again different, but from memory, there is also a rule requiring glass in most normal tin top classes.. <by normal i mean somnething that isn't a full tube chasis car>

I just made templates of the old windows from floor lino, and texta outlined them onto some plastic sheet, then cut with a saw, bandsaw works best, jig saw will cause it to break very easily probably a wiser idea to use lexan, as its less likely to crack and break like plexiglass/perspex will not sure on what lexan is per square meter tho

im not sure what my 33 4 door weighs in at, my aim is to get it down to 1100kg, i think ill be pushing my luck but note, its a race car ive pulled out everything, literally, the only thing the interior will have left, is two momo seats, a set of harness's, and the dash, with nothing behind it, no air boxes, no fan unit, no plastic trims, no roof lining no nothing. Saddly, i loose all that, but have picked up about 50-70kg of roll cage.. sound deading is easy to remove as mentioned, use dry ice, lay it about an inche thick on the area you want to remove, give it 5-10 minutes, clear the ice away, and wack it with a hammer, or just lever the side of it with a screw driver, should break up in bits, some will be harder to remove and may need more time witht he ice, but it'll eventually come away.. for anything thats left, grab a die grinder, and hit bunnings for what is effectivly a plastic scourer in a disc form, it'll get rid of what remainds quick as a flash other stuff ive done is turf the heavy stock bonnet for a fibre glass jun copy bonnet plexiglass side windows, 3mm thick, removed the rear door window motors, front and rear windscreens are still glass other stuff to come is a complete reqire of the car, when i get a motec for it, so ill loose probably nearly 50kg of wire that just does not need to be there also will be going for new fibreglass front and rear bumpers and guards.. there is a lot more i could do, but itd mean no fast glass front windows, and lots of holes carefully cut in various bits of the body, which im not so fond on the idea of.. if your really cashed up, you can get carbon fibre doors for 33 coupes, you'll pick up a good 30kg a door from those alone and if your really keen, strip the thing to a bare shell, and dunk it in a pot of acid, to thin out the panels, the WRC cars egt this treatment, other people i know grab a belt sander and manually thin out the panels, read floor etc

all i can say is sucked in brett, karma's caught up to you

MANY races have been won under this rule in simular circumstances just because a car is on its roof, missing all its wheels and bent beyond recognition, does not mean it has to lose a race it was winning on the lap it was red flagged its nothing to do with on eyed gt-r fans, its the rules..

Its called the reg flag rule the race was red flagged on THAT LAP, the sierra boys had not caught up and passed the gt-r yet dispite it being busted up, from memory they had nearly a laps lead on them.. the rules of the red flag are that when the race is stopped, they go back to the last full lap, so the lap before when the gt-r had all its wheels, was the lap considered the final lap.. the gt-r was still leading then wasn't it thus they won

It doesn't take much effort when the car in front is hard on the brakes with the back end not really sticking to the ground as much as the car behind it giving it a tap with its front end wehich has all the weight transfer applied to that end... all it needs is a slight tap to help break that final bit of traction to send it off.. Close racing is one thing, shoving one another about and shunting is another, driving standard have slipped as a whole in the V8SC series, and its a shame, most other motorsports forms can manage to avoid hitting one another, heck most drift comp don't see contact, even when the cars are less than half a meter apart while sideways, if these guys can avoid hitting one another, i fail to understand why the v8 boys can't... from the sounds of your description, it sounds more like an accident.. as i said earlier, rubbing and paint swapping has only become a common place thing in the past few years, prior to the newer breed, eg during the days of brock, johnson bowe etc, there was very little of it going on, sure there was accidents, but is all they really where, there wasn't the tocuh ups of the current day series, which i think is just a display of poor driving...

Piss off see here for a prime example of how utterly wrong that statement is These guys managed to avoid cleaning up one another despite very simular race cars as i said, its only been the last few years the nudge and shove way of thinking has entered the v8 circus, and its pretty appauling driving, if the guys of a few years ago could avoid one another, despite the very simular cars, how come this lot can't.. heck i watched steven richards get slammed into the wall at waneroo last yr after starting off pole because someone figured they'd do a kelly on him too, it ended his race, and his weekend which looked to be very promising given his pace.. if you can't race with respect for your fellow compeditor, you shouldn't be on the track..

in the earlier years of touring cars and the v8 series, there was barely ever a rub, or a nudge, and 99% of the time it was a genuine accident, now days its common place the only thing that has changed is the driving standards they gone to poo its poor driving, plain and simple

rubbing isn't racing, its poor driver skill if you need to rub someone up to get past em, obviously you are the poorer driver..

SK, i gotta disagree with you on kelly.. Watching the footage, ricks well off the back of lowndes into the corner, with craig slightly on the inside of todd, todd goes wide, craig goes in hard under the picks, eveident by the brake lights being on, of todd, and rick also goes for the picks at the same time, while still a few meters clear of craigs car, when craigs into the corner, rick lets the go slowly go into craigs while shifting to the left a bit unsettling it.. thus causing craig to loose the rear and take out todd in the process cheating 101 IMHO, same goes for tander, he'd been black flagged already for clearly blocking and denying a pass, as skaife had done on the day before, but tander chose to do it again in the closing section of the race, and a few laps BEFORE the 5 lap limit was to kick in, he knew what he was doing, and he deserved everything he got the weekends racing was nothing short of appauling

HKS units are 2 thou piston to bore.. most jap pistons will be around that sort of mark, yank stuff is usually a bit more

at the dutton earlier this yr engine bay shot and a link to some pics of the cars current status and bits going into it http://members.iinet.net.au/~denverparker/update

all bearings have sizings, ACL is the same as nismo, well pretty much the same, might find a few microns in difference in sizing.. i ran ACL mains, and nismo big ends on my car tho, had no hassles, will probably do the same when i need to..

Its pretty straight forward, RB25 box will bolt directly onto the motor, you can use the rb25 loom to run the thing, IF, you convert to a single turbo setup, <much wiser move IMHO, properly selected single eg, gt30 with a .64/82 rear will be on boost earlier most likely than the stock twins> if you stick with twins you'll need to get the loom from the 26 wited in to suit, as you will need to retain the dual AFM's and o2 sensors etc.. i used stock r33 mounts to the motor with nismo mounts to the subframe, and box.. as for the sump theres a couple of optiosn you can do.. use an rb25/30/20 style sump, you'll need to bash the side where the oil pick up is, and prevent it from leaking, <slightly dodgy method> or modify the gt-r sump, by chopping off the diff housing, and cleaning it up, then welding up the holes left from where the diff passes through it, that'll fit in perfectly and clear everything.. you can also get some extended units from various places, ive had one developed for me locally by a mate of mine, will hold about 10 litres of oil, and pretty crucial if your going to be belting it on the track, if its just a streeter you will be fine with the modified stock sump..

I can tell you now, its a bad idea.. the main thing to fix your overheating problem as ive seen in a number of race cars now is to seal/duct the front end up.. basically ensure that the air has to travel thru the intercooler and then the radiator, and not escape out the sides after passing through the intercooler and loosing all velocity.., the best setup is to have the intercooler pressed against the front of the rad, so its in effect one unit, far far more efficient, even tho there is still some heat transfer from the rad to the intercooler, there is no actual intake temp increase if you do it correctly and channel the air correctly.. did this to a sivlia race car that was over heating and all the cooling issues went away and it sat between 80-90 at all times on the track there after.. my 33 runs a simular setup, with the Ic pressed up hard against the front of the rad support, and the rad in a factory poisiton, the air can't go anywhere then.. personally i think you've gone backawards and will be worse off, but you will only realise this after you hit the track..

personally id move that oil cooler to the side, oil runs at a hotter temp than oil usually, and having to pass through first the oil cooler, then the intercooler, and then the rad, the air would be super hot by the time it got to the rad and probably do three fiths of bugger all for cooling.. better off moving it to the side, and ducting/sealing everything up so the air HAS to pass through the intercooler then the rad, and a seperate duct for the oil cooler..

aerostart is like a gas, you'll find the car will run differently as its getting some of that gas into the system...

takes about 3-4 days usually from japan when i order stuff from greenline

www.greenline.jp

No... drive train loss is NOT A PERCENTAGE its a pretty much fixed figure, give or take a hp due to oils/wear.. real loss figures are like this AWD, it varies system to system, i believe the atessa setup sucks about 70hp out of it RWD, 25-30hp FWD 30-40hp add to it you will lose more power if your driving an auto, but its about 10-20hp extra.. % loss figures are utter crap, and not to be believed, if your going to quote a %, use a sliding scale for loss compared to power, do not just have a flat % value as your loss, as its totally and utterly wrong..

it is, took my mate a few solid nights and some weekend time to sift thru everything tracing wires to see where they went and what they hooked into, the amount of surplus in the looms is astounding..

if theres metal, its undriveable, the damage has already started, driving it longer will only make it substaintally worse.. if you pull it apart now, you might not destroy the crank, and it may be ok with a new set of bearings.. keep going till it spins a bearing, and it could also sieze and leg the block..

check this vid, mostly fuellers and stuff, but you get to see all the wrap and distortion of the tyres in ultra ultra slow mo, amazing stuff to watch, you never think tyres get out of shape this much until you see a vid like this http://videosift.com/story.php?id=5073