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N I B

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Everything posted by N I B

  1. Sounds like the T4-T3 china job.Expect pain.
  2. Id run a bit more fuel thru the mid and upper revs and get an EBC
  3. Theres an application form for major mods that you can pickup at the pits.Minor stuff just take the car to the pits.I got an MX5 approved with an F355 Ferrari motor and trans fitted in the rear(Cars about to get finished)but had to have flex tests etc but we got it passed so near anything is possible.
  4. I have some Dyno runs on an RB20 with a 2871RS(Disco's bigger Bro) Ill see if i can get hold of the rego number to recall them for you but it was quite good from memory.
  5. Ive handed cops permits before and they sent me on my way so i think its a good idea but they wont save you if you were stopped for being a nutter etc.
  6. Their on Albany highway across the road from maddington tyre and suspension. Anthony cut both rear wheel arches of and fitted new ones with out any sign they were touched just that their wider now. He restored my dads 240Z years ago also.
  7. R33 and R34 RB25s have different drives so you have the wrong cams
  8. Because we have good plugin ECUs both MAF and MAP why wire an ECU when you have to piggy back or stuff around building TPS signal inverters for the 4WD.Horses for courses Wire ins are for cars that have no good plugin options. I dont know of any ECU that has to be retuned without any changes so the quaterly tune quote is not right.
  9. Their in Perth streetcar mag but i dont have Anthonys number here.Mirkz have a look at Sharons GTR to see their work.
  10. Ive seen to many N1s with cracks down the bore but never seen one factory block split a bore tho i have seen cracks from head stud holes. Go a new block and prep that and cryo treat it.Dont know if it works or not but i havent seen and broken treated parts.
  11. Most experts state that MPH is the guide to HP v Weight not ET. Morosso use MPH and it seems very close.
  12. Yes a factory standard issue block.
  13. If you have the kit then take it to Damage control or DALCOs Both fantastic work but Damage control are faster.
  14. Yes its steel wheel.Nothing is close on price.
  15. That was my point but ive read many times on here ppl say remove the pump and fit the drive as if thats all it is but ive done these and you have to machine the nose of the crank.
  16. Queensland performance do the spring you need.
  17. If you go to the stickys section in forced induction theres some sweet curves and a few that are anything but.
  18. Bridgestone is by far the better brand and cover everything fom forklifts to F1 so work out what you want from a tyre and they will have something to suit. Their R comps are one of the market leaders.
  19. Pick the power you need and go for it,you will be very happy with these turbos.
  20. These guys are so right so many ppl go for huge cams and turbos making crazy power but not running the times guys like DIRTgarage are with their milder parts giving huge average power. 260pon cams are very hard to beat for anything other than dyno queens or gutted drag cars with perfect trans setups. Ive been very suprised to see the power curves weve been able to get with these cams.
  21. I can doit and have before on RBs but its a waste of time and money on a streeter.Just get a Maitland wet sump,He has done much fab work for me for years inc the car with the dry sump.
  22. Should be mid 11s at about 122mph.
  23. YHI in WA,2 left in that size in this model new model coming.
  24. We can only help ourselves if we stop being silly on the streets,take it to Wanners or MC.
  25. Maybe just the Ebay wastegate.Is the turbo a name brand or Ebay job. If the Turbo is china job toss it out and get a Garrett etc and fit a good spring to the china wastegate(If it is) then retune,300rwkw is possible with a good tuner and thats one thing you do have.
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