Sydneykid

Leak to the ouside world = yes Leak into the engine = unlikely Fuel in the catch can = running rich = too much fuel. If it isn't injectors leaking (into the engine) then it is something else causing the rich running. Dirty AFM's, poor tune, excessive fuel pressure etc all stuff that should show up on the dyno. cheers

Not yet, soon, I just have a few more bits to add. I have been road tuning it with the Tech Edge A/F ratio meter. cheers Nope, it's not the compicated, what is it you want to know? cheers

Try; Heasmans, Princes H/Way, Sydenham East Coast Suspension, Kirrawee StGeorge Steering Services, Punchbowl Exceller Steering, Bankstown If you need some help interpreting the results, please just ask. cheers

Front 180.62.012, that means 180 mm free height, 62 mm ID and 12 kg/mm spring rate Rear 200.62.008 , that means 200 mm free height, 62 mm ID and 8 kg/mm spring The standard front and rear spring rates are around 3kg/mm, so you have increased the spring rates to 400% on the front and 267% on the rear. That’s simply ridiculous. As a comparison the Whiteline/Bilstein Group Buy spring rates are a 20-25% increase. I strongly suggest that you return the kit, demand your money back and tell the supplier it is totally unsuitable for Australian conditions. cheers

When the engine is cold, leave the radiator cap off, start it and watch for bubbles in the radiator. Bubbles = blown head gasket. Give it a liitle rev, lots of bubbles = big blown head gasket cheers

Any slip in the ATTESSA clutch packs results in power loss (well conversion into heat, anyway). So it could be argued that 50/50 mode will show higher power readings. cheers

Nope, can't use 3rd because it will kick down to 2nd at low rpm and big throttle openings. Aside from giving inconsistent readings, that's rather dangerous as well. Auto's are nearly always done in 2nd gear for that reason. It's an auto anyway, so there is no such thing as 1 to 1 in any gear. The torque converter won't lock up under full power, so there is always "slip". cheers

There is conflicting information because there isn’t one solid answer that fits ever car, every driver and every situation. The right answer is, it depends on how well the car is tuned, what it is used for and what it is driven like. Ceramic in the cat disease is caused by three things working together, heat, torque and turbo shaft rpm. There are various combinations of the 3 causes, but lots of all 3 is certain death. So I boil it down to 3 answers; 1. The guys that actually USE the power that 12 psi (or so) generates. They have killed a turbo or 2, and found that for what they use the car for, 10 psi is about as high as they can go before its ceramic in the cat time. They know from experience that the 10 psi keeps the shaft rpm down. So their continual hard driving may build up heat, but the shaft speed is low enough so the turbine survives. The lower boost means less torque loading on the turbine blades (turning the compressor). The car makes good power because it is tuned with reasonably lean (power making) A/F ratios. 2. The guys that cruise around and hardly ever use the 12 psi (or so). They give it a burst occasionally for a second or two. The car makes good power because it is tuned with reasonably lean (power making) A/F ratios. But they don’t really USE the power for any length of time. So the heat doesn’t build up. Hence they get away with the higher boost. 3. The cars that run 12 psi (or so) but run rather rich, so they don’t really develop the power to justify running 12 psi (or so). They can run the boost for reasonable periods because rich A/F ratios = a cooler turbine. Similarly they get away with the higher boost. So the answer is which category do you belong to? Personally I’m a #1, a few laps of the circuit at a supersprint or a track day or a long blast up Mooney Mooney Hill and I would kill a turbine, if I used more than 10psi. Take a look at the other responses and judge for yourself what category they fall into. cheers

Confirmed on SkyNews .......................

For combination circuit and ¼ mile I would go to a 6 link, consisting of 2 trailing arms each side and a watts linkage with coil over double adjustable shocks on a cut down Ford 9“ rear end. That gives you adjustable squat, adjustable roll centre heights, adjustable ride height, adjustable bump and rebound on the shocks. Plus you have an almost endless selection of coil spring rates to choose from, which are easily swapped depending on the activity of the day. The Ford 9" give you an equally endless choice of diff ratios. cheers

Taking bets on how long the gearbox will last. My guess is 2 weeks. Because if it doesn’t kill the auto in 2 weeks, then it doesn’t make enough power to justify the Power FC is first place. cheers

I forgot, and use 2nd gear. cheers

The ATTESSA doesn't like different diameters (width is irrelevant). So it doesn't matter about the effect on handling, it's a no no from an ATTESSA point of view. A wider track is always an advantage, but it's not a big deal. We swap between +30 and +35 with 8" rims and it makes zero difference to the lap times. The 10 mm difference in track is insignificant. Keep in mind the relationship between rim width and offset ie; an 8” rim with +22 offset puts the outside of the rim in the same place as a +35mm offset on a 9” rim. That means the car’s track is the same, which is what is important. cheers

My guess would be a leaking injector (or two). What injectors are you using? Have you had them cleaned and flow checked recently? Mainly to make sure that they close off completely. They can leak (a tiny bit) over night, or anytime that the engine isn’t running. The fuel sneaks down past the rings, if you are lucky. If you are unlucky (or the leak is big enough) you can get hydraulic lock when you try and start the engine in the morning. This would also explain the fluffy running when first started and the need for hotter plugs. Fuel evaporates at a much lower temperature than oil so that why it “boils” off into the catch can once the engine is warmed up. So, my recommendation would be to get those injectors checked, sooner rather than later. cheers

Reply sent, your kit is on its way. cheers

Tomei Poncams would be fine, but I wouldn't go any longer duration or higher lift than that. cheers

Mine tended to walk around a bit, so I put it in “Snow” mode and it was fine. cheers

The problem is GTR's tend to understeer, sometimes on corner entry, often at mid corner and (depending on power levels) occasionally on corner exit. So running a smaller width tyre (diameter must be the same) on the front is not a good idea. So you really need to look to running the same size (width and diameter) tyre front and rear. But running a narrower rim and hence a baggier tyre on the front, is equally not a good idea. When the budget is tight, we use cheap wheels on the race cars, they get banged around a lot and you really need 10 wheels in the kit. So we use Speedy Wheels, commonly the Hollow Type R in 17 X 8. They are not particularly light, their look is not to everyone’s taste, but they are cheap. We can buy a set of 4 for less than what one R33GTR wheel costs. Have a chat to your local Speedy retailer, they often have specials. cheers

From a Whiteline stabiliser bar fitting kit perspective; The front bars, adj and fixed, both use the standard D brackets The fixed bar uses the standard drop links The adj bar uses special links (Whiteline supply them with the bar) The rear bars, adj and fixed, both use the standard D brackets The fixed rear bar uses the standard drop links The adj rear bar uses special links (Whiteline supply them with the bar) Let me know what you need, I have a few sets of links (no D brackets though) on the shelf for emergencies. cheers

Front is ~400 lbs per inch (7.1 kg /mm) Rear is ~370 lbs per inch (6.6 kg/mm) Yep, a broken front bar is not good for rear end stability. cheers

Hi Daniel, power wise you may get a little more out of the Power FC for not much more cost. Fuel economy wise there is no comparison, the Power FC is miles ahead. This is due to its ability to tune functions that a piggy back simply can not access, such as the lambda aim table, fuel shut off on overrun and acceleration enrichment. Plus there is more load point flexibility in the areas of partial throttle openings. What does it mean? Well based on my experiences with the Stagea (tuned with piggy backs) and the R33GTST (tuned via a PFC) it’s around 2.0 to 2.5 litres per 100 k’s. That’s saves me a $1K a year in fuel, so it’s worth it. cheers

Sorry Simon, I have been road tuning using the Tech Edge A/F ratio meter. So I haven’t had the Stagea on the dyno, there just never seems to be the time. Plus I have a few incomplete mods, which I really want to finish before I stick it on the dyno. I can tell you that the SITC on its own makes ZERO difference to the fuel consumption. Tuning the A/F ratios using the DFA made the most difference, after the exhaust system upgrade (split dump, Magic cat and Nismo cat back) of course. I am still playing with the DFA tune, it needs to be a bit leaner. Which I couldn’t do without the SITC, the DFA was advancing the ignition (via lowering of the AFM voltage). So it was getting a bit of pre-ignition, the SITC enables me to retard the ignition (back to where it was) and therefore avoid the pre-ignition problem. cheers

FFS read my post above. Nissan doesn't "recommend" it. I have used it for 8 months without a problem I have tested everything Nissan said could "possibly" be a problem None of my testing has shown a single problem That's the best answer you are going to get, take it or leave it. cheers

No such thing as fuel cut on RB25's Try doing a search "Sydneykid" "Mapping" "Any Date" cheers