Sydneykid

AE86 = piss easy, live rear axle. IRS, strut based = much harder The trick is changing the location of the inner mounts of the lower control arms. This means weldng brackets onto the subframe with 2 dimensional adjustment. Pictures won't help much, as it's all about the achieving the correct geometry, to do that you really need the precise dimensions. Then test the toe and camber change through the full suspension movement range. The best I have seen is the ex Gibson R30 and R31's, if you get the chance pop along when they are in your area (hint Skylines Nationals). I have some pictures around, if I find them I will post them up. cheers

I don’t think 4wd is much of advantage when the main problem with huge power is turbo lag. Sure the tyres will last longer as the torque is spread over 4 driven wheels, but the throttle response is the real limiter. As many of the guys have found out in sports sedans, I know of 4 cars that were originally built with 1,000 bhp turbo engines and all of them now have N/A 6 litre V8’s. Tyre/wheel width is tricky, if you allow unlimited width you end up with guard flares wider than the car. Or, even worse, tubs like a drag car. Consequently I reckon there has to be a limit, maybe tie the rim width to the cars weight. So you don’t get go karts with 750 bhp and 20” wide tyres. That’s one of the problems with IP regs, the max rim size is 8”. So you get 950 kg cars with 8” rims competing against 1600 kg cars with 8” rims. It would be easy to fix, allow 10” wide rims on cars over 1350 kgs (about what you can get an R32GTR down to without driver). Let’s face it, plenty of road cars come with wider than 8” rims standard, so there are Production Cars with wider rims than Improved Production Cars. Dumb huh? cheers

I have one from NewKleer, the details are in the Group Buy section. Works well, easy to build kit or you can buy it ready made. There are choices of software, some free, some have small fees. cheers

ME! ME! ME! I have cash ready! Where do you live? Western Sydney OK, I will drive there tomorrow Hang it, what about tonight? I'll bring my tools to remove them. PM me to finalise cheers

"They" are wrong cheers

What exactly is it you are after? Brake fluid - Castrol Response Super Dot 4, it is the best polyglycol they make Front Disc Rotors - DBA 4963 (R33GTST) modified by machining down the OD by 6mm Rear Disc Rotors - DBA 4908 (R32GTR), modified by machining down the OD by 5mm Rear Pads – 1399 in any Bendix compound The only thing I haven’t found an aftermarket/heavy duty part is; Front pads - Hitachi HP63H FF If someone wants to send me a pair of front S2 pads, I will see what I can find. cheers

Yes, lots of experience. But first you need to face up to the reality that you won’t be able to buy an off the shelf solution like you can for an R32/33/34. You can’t simply order a $123 camber kit to adjust the camber and there are no off the shelf toe adjusters available. You will have to make, or have made for you, some parts and then modify the mounting points on the sub frame. If you are prepared to do that yourself or pay for someone to do it, then we can continue. Let me know. cheers

In order to get a specific answer you need to ask a specific question. Is it max horsepower you want for 8 seconds (as in how long it takes to cover a ¼ mile)? Or max horsepower you want for say 24 hours on a circuit (as in the length of the LeMans 24 Hour race)? Or max horsepower you want for 5 days (as in the length of Targa Tas)? Or max horsepower you want for a year while you drive it to work everyday? Because the answer to each of those “max horsepower” questions is quite different cheers

Is that in reponse to my #1? If that is the case, then I am not sure that we are talking about the same thing. With the longer rod, the piston is around TDC longer for the same number of crankshaft rotation degrees. Hence “around longer” means while the combustion is actually occurring, That’s why I say “Thereby giving an increase in combustion pressure, this means more torque per firing”. The angle of the rod at ½ stroke is something altogether different. Where the longer rod is also an advantage as the right angle to the crank occurs earlier in the combustion process. Therefore imparting more torque at that time. Or have I missed something? cheers

Try the thread on the Jaycar IEBC and DFA, the one on the Apexi SITC and the one on the Tech Edge A/F ratio meter http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=61207&hl=IEBC http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=80642&hl=IEBC http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=91356&hl=Tech They should answer most of your questions cheers

Conrod oil squirters are essential cheers

Did you consider the OS Giken 3 litre solution? Longer cylinder liners. But using the RB30 length conrods and a 38 mm spacer. Instead of the RB26 length conrods and an 18 mm spacer. Then you could have used a standard RB30 crank and the oversized pistons for 3.1 litres. I believe the liners and spacer plate would have cost less than a bespoke crankshaft. cheers

Lot’s to say but no time to say it, so I’ll keep this post to one point, power limiting. In Sports Sedans there is no power limit placed on the engine, as long as it is 6 litres (or under) including turbo and rotary multiplication, it doesn’t matter. Quite a few guys have built 1000 + bhp Sports Sedan turbos, but they don’t win many races compared to the N/A 6 litre V8’s. Why? Because the lag gets too great and the handling drops off as a result. Fast lap times are mostly about going round corners faster. A long as there is a tyre width limit there is effectively a power limit as a result. If it’s also a control tyre limit, then that’s even more of a power equaliser. So personally I don’t see why we need something (restrictor, boost limit etc) to limit the power output. cheers PS; Indy/Champ cars did very well with a boost limit via a control blow off valve. A far superior solution to a restrictor, which simply limits the top speed and hence works very well for rally cars belting through the forest, But not on a circuit race car please. Restrictors make places like Bathurst and Philip Island ball less.

Hi Ian, as far as I know the balls are 100% ceramic, used for their insulation and hardness properties. Why GCG have removed it from the web site I have no idea, maybe it gave away info on what type of core they use to their competitors. Maybe there are using ceramic balls in the turbine bearing and steel balls in the compressor bearing. So the ceramic balls comment was confusing. Maybe some punters out there thought ceramic balls were the same as ceramic turbines and failed under high boost. Moving onto the plain bearing story, I gave some easy to understand examples from my world. It doesn't take much effort to extrapolate them to someone elses world. Let’s try this one, I am driving down the M5 with my mates on a Friday night, giving it a bit. We come across an accident in the airport tunnel and have to stop suddenly, the tunnel waring light flashes “turn off your engine”. Why? Well maybe it’s a fuel tanker involved in an accident, or maybe it’s simply just too much pollution in the tunnel. Am I going to sit there and wait for my turbo to cool down for 2-3 minutes? I don’t think so Tim. Think of the times when you have had to turn off your engine suddenly and then think about maybe having to pay for a turbo rebuild. Once a year, maybe twice, not every day. Roll the dice, it’s your money. cheers

PM sent this morning. Sorry late night last night, too much to do and not enough time. Some days I get 30 or so PM's, and I respond to every single one. Unfortunately not always the same day. cheers

There are three things to keep in mind when comparing rod / stroke ratios and power output; 1. Longer rods go slower through TDC, keeping the total combustion chamber smaller, that’s the actual chamber in the cylinder head plus the exposed part of the cylinder. Thereby giving an increase in combustion pressure, this means more torque per firing. It’s been while since I did the numbers, but from memory, comparing an RB30 conrod length to an RB26 conrod length means that the combustion pressure is around 2.5% higher (with the same compression ratio). This means a noticeably improved efficiency of combustion. 2. Larger rod ratios keep the rod more vertical, reducing the side loads on the piston and reducing friction between the piston and the bore. Using the same RB26 vs RB30 conrod comparison sees a reduction in side loads of around 10%. I don’t know the total friction numbers for an RB but if we assume that they are similar to a SB Chevy where about a quarter of the friction comes from the pistons. This means a reduction in friction of around 0.5%, not a lot but certainly better than adding friction. 3. The maximum piston speed of an engine using an RB30 rod occurs a bit later in the cycle compared to an RB26. Which means it is closer to maximum lift of the camshaft. Hence when the piston is moving the fastest, the valve is more open, causing less of a restriction. This means better filling on intake and better exhaust flow. There are a number of other benefits from a higher rod stroke ratio such as slower more effective compression to squish zones, longer dwell at TDC means higher preignition tollerance, less detonation etc. It is also worth mentioning that #2 above means that an engine using an RB30 length of conrod (compared to an RB26) will have less cylinder wall and piston wear. More relevant is that it will have a far less chance of breaking a conrod due to the lower side loads. The bottom line, given the choice, I would choose the RB30 rod stroke ratio over the RB26 every time. cheers

Many times in testing we have had to do a rapid engine shut down, puching the envelope and getting stuck in the sand trap is one reason. I have seen 3 GTR’s kill plain bearing turbos from oil surge related starvation. Since we went to ball bearing turbos we have not had one failure. I have NEVER seen a seized ball bearing turbo due to premature (sudden) engine shut down. My view on plain bearing turbos may well be tainted by 15 years of experience with them failing, regularly. On the Sierras we used to have to change turbos up to 4 times in the course of a race weekend. I can still remember loosing 2 races because of turbo failure, even though we changed the turbo between races. If you can live with the demonstrably slower response, the higher oil change frequency, the higher turbo maintenance and the greater risk of failure….then pocket the saving and move on. If you can’t, then there are alternatives. cheers

The D bushes have to be a tight fit in the D brackets, they fall out if they are a loose fit. Yep, try spacing it and see how much it needs to clear the sump. Cheers

Try a search, "Sydneykid" and "+boost+irrelevant" that should give you the answer cheers

Here’s the problem, most guys find that installing a second pump is not as easy as it sounds. You have to; 1. find space for it 2. mount it in rubber as they vibrate a lot 3. run the fuel lines to it 4. run a separate relay, as 2 pumps draw too much current for the standard wiring 5. run a decent size power supply from the battery to the pump Compared to, remove the standard pump and make a few small mods and install the 044. Later on, if you need the extra flow that 13.8 volts gives you, you can run the relay and dedicated power supply. That’s the reason most people do the pump swap, it is actually easier/faster/simpler. cheers

That's 30 mm illegal. What are the centre of wheel to guard heights on all 4 corners. That's the way you tell if it's too low. Anything less than 350 mm front and 340 mm rear is too low for good handling, traction and ride. cheers

OK I am confused, Honda Civics have the speedo above the steering wheel. One of our cars has a heads up display, that is way above the steering wheel. An old car I owned once had the clock in the overhead console. I should also ask about electronic toll collection devices (E Tag), they are most certainly above the steering wheel. I think you will find the “rule” is about obstructing vision, through the windscreen and the side windows in this case. If the gauge pod lines up with the A pillar (ie; doesn’t reduce the driver’s field of vision) then it is legal. As a comparison, bonnet mounted gauges definitely obstruct the driver’s vision, as does a monster tacho mounted on top of the dash. Keep in mind the difference between “obstruction” and “distraction”. For example a TV screen in the centre console doesn’t “obstruct” your view. But it can sure as hell be a “distraction” and hence be considered illegal. Fuzzy dice could be considerd both a distraction (they move) and an obstruction, hence are considered illegal. Obviously a simple gauge is not a considered a distraction, as there are plenty of them in the instrument cluster. This vision obstruction rule is common around the world, that’s why A pillar pod mounts are so popular, because they are designed to be basically legal. My suggestion is, in the nicest possible way, explain calmly that you have checked with DOTARS, and since the gauges are not obstructing your vision, they are 100% legal. cheers

Nissan has a problem, Skylines are not sold worldwide. So they HAVE to keep the GTR away from the Skyline name. Otherwise they will have people asking for the “other models” of Skyline. The economics of it are such that if you do one model you might as well do a selection of the rest. The real problem for Nissan in Australia is the R32GTR bombed, big time, they forgot it was a “hero” car. The idea being that you don’t make a lot of money selling the “hero” car by itself, you make the money selling the lower spec models that live of the hero’s name. So if they sell the GTR as the “hero” Skyline then they need the other models to make the money. Let’s face it we all know Nissan in Australia should drop the front wheel drive Maxima and sell Skylines instead. Then, and only then, does a Skyline GTR makes sense. I don’t really want to go into a Nissan dealer to buy a GTR, or get it serviced, and have to wait in line behind some low life with a Tiiga. That’s why Toyota has Lexus, Honda has Acura, Nissan has Infinity, Subaru have designated STi dealers and Mitsubishi have Raliart dealerships to sell Evo’s. Nissan has a problem if they want to sell GTR’s in Australia, and based on past experiences, they have no idea how to solve it. I know, but they won’t be asking me. cheers

1. The Whiteline stabiliser bar is obviously a larger diameter than the standard bar. This means the bends can not be as tight a radius. Plus they generally try and keep the ground clearance as per standard, so this means the bar is higher/closer to the sump by the extra thickness. 2. Yep, so is mine, so the bar should fit 3. Ah, my RB31DET hasn't been lowered I am sure we can find a solution for you, the front stabiliser bar is a very worthwhile upgrade. cheers

Sorry the heights are included in the pisture which is not linked at the moment due to the gallery upgrade. Prank is working on fixing that. The Group Buy Bilsteins have additional circlip grooves added so you can set the height you want before you fit them. There are 6 grooves 8 mm apart and I can tell you the height that you will get from each groove. Keep in mind that Skylines handle best around 355 mm front and 345 mm rear (centre of wheel to guard). The standard circlip groove with the Whiteline springs gives ~355 mm front and ~345 mm rear. So the range of heights is ~370 mm to ~320 mm on the front and ~360 to ~310 mm on the rear. cheers