Sydneykid

Try this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82083 cheers

No brake pad updates as yet cheers

I have reponded to all PM that I have received. If you haven't received a reply please PM me again. cheers

R32GTST and R32GTR arms are the same The arms themselves don't usually wear, it's the ruber bushes in the arms that wear out over time. My suggestion would be to replace the standard rubber bushes with adjustable polyurethane bushes. The parts cost would be ~$270 on the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 cheers

The 2wd set up is rather different than the 4wd set up. You should never get corner exit understeer in a 2wd, the right foot usually fixes that problem. cheers

That's compared to the static reading from new and a conservative one at that. Most cars have distorted standard bushes and have lost some caster over time. I have seen a 1.5 degree increase in caster many times. Then there is the dynamic caster, the polyurethane bushes distort a lot less when the car is on the move than the silicone filled standard rubber bushes. Bottom line, the difference is very noticeable. cheers

12 psi with the standard intercooler? My guess is restrictions in the inlet and the turbo running out of airflow to hold 12 psi at high rpm Or the boost controller is not controlling boost properly. Try it at 10 psi, the standard turbo will last longer anyway, and see if it still drops boost. If it doesn't, it's airflow restrictions. cheers

PM read today and replied to. cheers

Quick clarification; 2. It is pretty easy to swap over the upper control arms, only 2 bolts. If they are the same series then stick a camber kit in the current car and swap the arms over when the new one arrives. 4. What's the rear hide height? If higher than 345 mm, then worth trying down to a min of 330 mm. They are extemely sensitive to ride height. You should be able to feel the differences, 2-3 mm is noticeable. :bigrin: cheers

Most of the guys with rear subframe bush issues simply add the Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples)for ~$115. It is a 20 minute DIY and doesn't add very much NVH at all ie; most people don't even notice it. Much easier and cheaper than removing the whiole rear subframe and pushing out the standard bushes. cheers

Hi, firstly caster (radius) rods don't usually wear, the bushes (at the front) wear but not the radius rods themselves. My suggestion would be to replace the worn out, standard, rubber, radius rod bushes with nw, adjustable, polyurethane bushes. For around $100, plus a bit of pressing anda a whel alignment, they are a legal way of achieving caster adjustment. cheers

On full soft 24mm front bar and full hard 24mm rear bar you should not have corner exit understeer, my suggestions follow; 1. Toe the front out about 2mm each side 2. It needs at least 2.5 degrees negative camber on the front to match the 1 degree negative camber on the rear. 3. Don't have the front ride height too low, around 350 mm is as low as I would go. They can easily run out of travel. 4. All the fast circuit race GTR's have zero rake (ie; they are NOT nose down). The roll centre is much higher at the rear than the front, if you run it nose down, that just makes the difference greater. This causes the excessive roll to the outside front tyre. Match the roll centre more closely and you don't get that. 5. You could stiffen up the front bar to fix #4 but it may lead to corner entry understeer as you don't get that initial bite from the weight transfer. Try the ride height first, then maybe try increasing the front bar setting just to be sure you have some logic to the adjustment process. Hope that helps cheers

The bottom of a RB 2wd block looks nothing like the bottom of an RB 4wd block. The 4wd block is much wider, has many more and much larger diameter bolt holes. As you would expect to hold up a big diff, drive shafts and large cv joints for the front drive. cheers

Considering the temperature of the brake fluid in the callipers, engine bay temp is not an issue. Unless the turbine exhaust or wastegate pipe is very close to the brake lines of course. Then it is best to insulate the exhaust, not the brake lines as they help radiate some heat (hot brake fluid rises). cheers

I think you guys are being a bit kind, or is it that I am more of realist, or just more cynical? 1. There is simply no comparison between a dyno run and a run down the ¼. On the dyno there are no gearchanges, no sudden changes of load, no rev limiter touches, no uncontrolled rpm climb rate, a load cell to smooth out the load, no clutch grab, no throttle opening changes, no torque load changes as the tyres grip and the diff takes up etc etc. 2. The failure points are the usual standard RB25 suspects, little ends, big ends, rod bolts, piston ring lands, piston crowns, head gasket and main bearings. It is simply a matter of which bit fails first. 3. With that power band (did someone say dyno queen style) it is going to be very slow, more commensurate with its average power than its max power. My guess is it is going to drop off boost on every gear change and be a real pain in the ass to launch. It will be all wheelspin city or bog the dog. Should we have an ET and TS guessing game? My 20 cents is on a 12.5 at 120 mph cheers

The castings are slightly different, the oil gallery that the squirters have to be tapped into has variances in its diameter and the wall thickness varies as a result. I have found no common ground, S1 blocks are not better (thicker/more consistent) than S2 blocks, N/A blocks are no worse than turbo blocks, Skyline blocks are no better than Commondoor blocks. Basically you buy 10 X RB30's and start measuring, only 1 or 2 will be suitable. It is still a bustard of a job to do, takes hours and a special jig, so very costly. Even then the result is not guaranteed. My own RB31DET has oil squirters and no I am not pullng it out of the car to take photos. It doesn't look any different to RB20/25/26 oil squirters anyway, there just isn't the raised section where they bolt on. We have built lots of RB30's without block mounted oil squirters, they show no signs of additional wear or damage when they are serviced. My suggestion, forget block mounted oil squirters in RB30's, ceramic coat the piston crowns, oil retention coat the skirts and move on. cheers

If it's a manual get a Power FC, An SAFC won't fix the speed limiter An SAFC won't allow independant adjustment of the ignition timing An SAFC won't give you a full sensor diagnostics screen (Commander) An SAFC won't show a dash warning for knock, injector duty or AFM voltage An SAFC tune is a compromise tune (A/F ratio versus ignition timing) etc etc Think about it, an SAFC is ~$450 new and they sell used for ~$250. A Power FC is ~$950 new and they sell used for ~$950. It is pretty easy to see which is considered the best value. cheers

Maximum power at one rpm point is a USELESS number, how fast a car is depends on its average power over the used rpm range. Get your dyno graph and the 300+rwkw dyno graph and compare the average power, say 4,000 rpm to 7,500 rpm in 500 rpm increments. The faster car always has the higher average power. cheers

Forget about the 10 rwkw increase in max power . We found 25+ rwkw at some points in the rpm range. B) The average power increase over the useable rpm range was 22 rwkw, because the useable rpm range was extended by the Poncams. cheers

It doesn't change the power on the dyno 1 kw, it just lessens the time between throttle depression and engine response. It is most noticeable in the 3,000 rpm to 4,500 rpm range, which is where you do the most driving on the road. I can't say as there is any noticeable difference over 5,000 rpm. Which would be logical as the air speed through the intercooler pipework is much higher and the time taken to flow the 5 litres is less as the rpm rises. cheers

A/F ratios are based on weight, not volume, hence the need for specific gravity of the fuels. Moving on...............we have a new project car, an R33GTST that is in need of some TLC. One of the recent upgrades was a Power FC. As most people are aware, the default ignition maps are a little advanced for Optimax, Ultimate or Vortex 98. Not as bad as they used to be for 95 ron fuels, but still a tad. Obviously I will tune it properly eventually , but we have a few mods to go yet and I don’t have the time to tune it multiple times. So the idea was to stick the Power FC in and run it on the default maps for a couple of weeks. On Optimax and Ultimate (didn’t try Vortex) it was reaching knock of 60+ up our usual test hill in 4th gear as logged on the datalogit. The dash warning was also flashing frequently, as it is set for 60, in normal day to day driving around. When the tank was just about empty this week, we filled it up with Optimax Extreme (@ 5 cents a litre more than Optimax). Several runs up the hill and we are not seeing knock over 10. And zero dash warnings in 3 days of normal driving. Now that is very worthwhile, there is not enough Optimix Extreme around yet for me to tune it exclusively for 100 ron, but it sure will be a useful for the odd track day or run down the ¼. I will monitor the effects of the ethanol on the fuel lines, o’rings and seals over the next few weeks. The injectors and fuel pump will have to come out shortly so I will check their condition as well. I am not anticipating any problems, but it is still worth checking. cheers:)

Without some numbers on the current ITS turbo, it is very difficult to decide if this is a turbo problem or a tuning problem. I am always suspicious when I see "chipped ecu". If it was my car I would be having a good look at the tuning before I went out and spent my money on a turbo that may not be the real l problem. An example, I have been working (after hours) on our latest project, an R33GTST. It was getting to 8 psi at 4,000 rpm in 3rd gear, which a few people said was pretty good. I spent a few hours tuning it last week, spread over a couple of days, and got it to 10 psi at 3,000 rpm. No mechanical changes, just tuning. So, don't give up on the turbo until you are certain that it is the problem. cheers

If you get your standard turbo high flowed everything will fit back on as standard. Nicley defect resistant as well. We use lots of GCG ball bearing high flows (not to be confused with the cheap plain bearing high flow jobs around). Good for 275 rwkw if you have the supporting parts. cheers

Is the pipework aluminium or steel? cheers

Recommended fitters are in the Group Buy thread. Heasmans Sydenham NSW East Coat Suspension Kirrawee NSW St George Steering Punchbowl NSW Centeline Thomastown Vic Traction Tyre & Suspension Rowville Vic Discount Tyres Service Belconnen Act Cheers:)