Sydneykid

There are a bit soft over there, one sub 11 and it's goodbye over here. cheers

There are both forged and cast ACL Race Series Pistons available, we use the forged ones cheers

Bit of a mixed bag of answers; 1. The R34 N1's are good for around 600 bhp (~350 4wkw) 2. Which is around the rule of thumb limit I look at for RB26 standard internals (in good conditon of course) 3. At standard fuel pressure the standard injectors are good for around 444 bhp (~250 4wkw). With an adj FPR you can stretch that to 280 4wkw as long as the fuel pump has capacity (flow and pressure). 4. The standard fuel pump is good for 265 4wkw at 12 volts and ~300 4wkw at 13.8 volts, 5. The standard intercooler is OK up to 300 rwkw (maybe a little more) 6. For 350 4wkw. the exhaust will need to be 3.5" and combined split dumps and engine pipes would be my suggestion. The R34 N1's like to have the exhaust from the turbine and the wastegate separated. So, assuming you are aiming for the full capacity of the turbos and your internals are in good nick, 600 bhp (350 4wkw) is the target. That means 600 cc injectors and a Bosch 044 mounted in tank with a relay (keep that voltage up). I wouldn't worry about the intercooler at this stage, you may find it isn't a restriction at your power level. The secret to making it live at that power level is tuning, tuning and a bit more tuning. Keep the boost under 1.4 bar, detonation under 25 on the Commander and no leaner than 12 to 1 A/F ratios. Hope that was of some help cheers

I have a question..........if the current brakes have enough stopping power to activate the ABS, why do you think changing to R33GTR Brembos will make the Stagea stop any faster? cheers

I knew you would get to god's country soon. cheers

Hi Alex, my understanding is the Sard injectors that are used in RB25's are equally intended for use in 1/2JZ's, which use a the same shape injector with sligtly smaller external dimensions. So they need adaptor collars to fit RB25's. That is why Sard injectors are cheaper then other brands that fit RB25's, Sard have amortised the cost over the much larger combined volume of RB25's and 1/2JZ's. cheers

Sorry, received lots of PM's last night, should be OK now. cheers

In some ways radius rods are even worse than upper arms for wearing spherical bearings. They sustain substantial impact loadings every time the car kits a bump. The front wheel is pushed upwards, which the spring (hopefully) absorbs, but it is also pushed backwards. This puts large strain on the sherical bearing and the subframe mount it is attached to. Add this to the brake loading and engine torque loading if it is 4WD (or FWD). The bottom line, I wouldn't recomend using spherial bearings ANYWHERE in the suspension of a road car. R33GTST understeer is not normally a difficult problem to overcome. The fixes are usually divided into catagories, depending on where in the corner the understeer occurs, as follow; Turn in; 1. Softer front stabiliser bar setting 2. Harder rear stabiliser bar setting 3. More caster 4. Less bump valving on the front shocks 5. More toe out/less toe in on the rear 6. Lower front spring rate 7. Higher front ride height Mid Corner; 1. Softer front stabiliser bar setting 2. Harder rear stabiliser bar setting 3. More negative camber on the front 4. Less negative camber on the rear 5. More toe out on the front 6. More front rebound damping in the shocks Corner exit; 1. More power 2. Harder rear stabiliser bar setting 3. Higher rear spring rate 4. More bump valving on the rear shocks 5. Increased rear roll couple (higher rear ride height) If you want me to get into the specifics of your car, please let me know the current alignment settings, bar, spring and shock specs and I can come up with some tailored suggestions that I am confident will fix the understeer problem. Hope that was of some help cheers

Yes, there are still a few sets of R32GTST Bilsteins in stock. cheers

In some ways radius rods are even worse than upper arms for wearing spherical bearings. They sustain substantial impact loadings every time the car kits a bump. The front wheel is pushed upwards, which the spring (hopefully) absorbs, but it is also pushed backwards. This puts large strain on the sherical bearing and the subframe mount it is attached to. Add this to the brake loading and engine torque loading if it is 4WD (or FWD). The bottom line, I wouldn't recomend using spherial bearings ANYWHERE in the suspension of a road car. R33GTST understeer is not normally a difficult problem to overcome. The fixes are usually divided into catagories depending on where in the corner the understeer occurs, as follow; Turn in; 1. Softer front stabiliser bar setting 2. Harder rear stabiliser bar setting 3. More caster 4. Less bump valving on the front shocks 5. More toe out/less toe in on the rear 6. Lower front spring rate 7. Higher front ride height Mid Corner; 1. Softer front stabiliser bar setting 2. Harder rear stabiliser bar setting 3. More negative camber on the front 4. Less negative camber on the rear 5. More toe out on the front 6. More front rebound damping in the shocks Corner exit; 1. More power 2. Harder rear stabiliser bar setting 3. Higher rear spring rate 4. More bump valving on the rear shocks 5. Increased rear roll couple (higher rear ride height) If you want to get into specifics of your car, pleasee let me know the current alignment settings, bar, spring and shock specs and I can come up with some tailored suggestions that I am confident will fix the understeer problem. Hope that was of some help cheers

PM Sent cheers

They would be stronger, but they are 31 mm too short. cheers

The R33GTR 17 X 9 X 30 with 245/40/17 just clears the rolled guards on the R32GTST. I don't think the 17 X 9 X 20 will fit. cheers

100 kph is 2,750 rpm with a 4.363 diff (R32GTST) a 0.759 5th gear and 245/45/17 tyres. 100 kph is 2,600 rpm with a 4.1 diff (R32GTR) a 0.759 5th gear and 245/45/17 tyres. 100 kph is 2,500 rpm with a 3.9 diff (S13) a 0.759 5th gear and 245/45/17 tyres. 100 kph is 2,400 rpm with a 3.7 diff (S13) a 0.759 5th gear and 245/45/17 tyres. As you can see there is not much difference, I suspect that you will improve the fuel economy far more by spending the money (that a dif change would cost) on some tuning. cheers

RB25 had bolts are 11mm RB26 head bolts are 12mm You would be much better off (cheaper and larger range) going for 12.5 mm (1/2") Chevy head studs. ARP have a full range of sizes. cheers:)

How on earth did you get away with the sub 11? cheers

Yes, at least 400 mm separation of the turbine and wastegate exhaust is required. cheers

The replacement split dumps are too short and don't have enough separation, you still get turbulance which affects the turbine response. The combined dump and engine pipe systems have sufficient separation to give a noticeably superior result, both more power and more importantly better response. This is one of the most discussed subject on here, try a search for "split dumps" under my postings, those threads should tell you everything you need to know. cheers:)

Well, I gotta say Tech Edge delivery is pretty good, received my order via Express Post this afternoon. They are not shipping the 7057 lambda sensor any more, I received a 7200 instead. Which is not such a bad thing as rumour has it the 7200 is a bit faster in its response. I won't have time to start on the kit today, maybe tonight I might lay out the parts and check the intructions thoroughly. The kit doesn't ship with the instructions, you have to download/print them from the web site. Luckily I have good quality colour printer. I will start on the display as it is a little smaller and has less components, so I will have a chance to get used to the terminology used. cheers

Personally I have never seen an RB produce less power with more advance. The limit on how much advance is always pre-ignition not power drop off. cheers

There are only 7 sets of Bilsteins left for R32GTR's, so the Group Buy will be closing soon. cheers

PM has been received and the order processed. Thanks for supporting the Group Buy. cheers