vitz_n1

i have an rb20 and rb20 gearbox cross member, tailshaft and speedo cable, interested in swap for your gearbox and parts required to put in a 32 i.e. tailshaft, x-member, speedo cable? let me know, my no. is 0422 034 450 or pm.

The car is the burgandy color they come in. However it has been re-sprayed at some stage is a slighty brighter red. hopefully have some pics tonight.

Sorry forgot to add. Melbourne - Blackburn

Yeah just rb20 5 speed atm. ummmm, not really looking to sell it uninstalled. If that was the case i'd prob be selling the parts separate, sorry mate. As for pics, i keep meaning to go take photos and then it starts to fkn rain!!!.....isn't it summer??.... but i guess.... "we need the rain" :S Will have them up asap.

Hi all, I am thinking of selling my car, im just gettin over the modifying car thing. The car is an 1992 m-spec/type m wateva it is R32. The body has 150xxx genuine k's and has and RB25 conversion in it. The motor is in micky mouse condition, i wen through 2 blow motor before getting this one under warranty, this motor was $500 more but was the only one he had to swap over so got it. The motor is from and auto series 2 R33 tat had 76xxx k's. About 160psi across the board. The car WILL be engineered and roadworthy with front mount and exhaust and thats basically what you get for the $12000. Current mods are - 32 GTR rear wheels, all wheels painted black - GTR fuel pump - Greddy type m fmic - 3" turbo back, hks split dump - some gauge, oil temp, oil pressure and boost - exedy hd clutch, cant be sure exactly what exedy, i know its exedy and has plenty of meat when i had the motor out i had a look. - Lowered front lowered susp on hks spring - rear and ohlins - front i think. (can chuck JIC coilovers in the back if ya want, bit of a mismatch though). The body is straight and paint is in great nick, comes up beautiful. A few stone chips on the bonnet and a chip on the front bar, not much though. NOW above is how the car would be sold IF you would like it with a bit more go i have a garret 3071r, power fc and JDM s15 injectors and buddy club N+ coilovers to go on, get an rb25 box, afm and a tune should easily push over 260kw. Anyway, if you want the turbo add $1100 installed, coilovers $1100 installed, pfc $1000 you need to plug in and tune, injectors add $300 - could install but prob wanna install at time of tuning. Or take the lot for $15000 - and ill chuck in a Tomei 1.2mm head gasket woohoo!!! If there is interest ill add pics. Any q's call on 0422 034 450 Regards - Ryan

Hey mate, I have a bit of a lengthy q here so bare with me. I am just installed my PFC into my car and have had a few probs. I am installing a RB25 PFC on an rb25 in an r32 using rb25 loom. I haven't long done the conversion and all seems to running fine with the standard ecu. I installed the PFC did an initialize to remove any previous tunes stored and went through the self learn process. Then i went to turn the boost kit plug in thingy off, however, when trying to push next on the boost kit icon it wouldn't go the to next screen to select "the icon that looks like a + sign", i let it go and just started the car. The car started and idled beautifully, i waited 10 mins and then put the aircon on (which isn't even on the car) but i did it anyway. After about 5 mins of this, so 15 in total, the PFC started to make a really quiet buzzing and then the car just shut off. I'm 90% sure it was buzzing before shutting off, possibly my ears playin tricks, but quite sure it was :S. I then tried turning the car back on but it had nothin, no fuel pump prime....nothin! I opened the PFC unit looked for any burnt tracks or popped capacitors in fear of having fried it due to wiring for the conversion possibly being wrong, all looked to be ok, then i put the stock ecu back in and the car started fine, then i put PFC in and fuel pump primed and car started..... i turned it off and left it there..... My question is, 1. Am i doing something wrong to disable the boost control kit or is something wrong there with the unit? 2. I know you mentioned that if self learn is not done correctly the car will stall..... but i was just idling, and didn't so much stall, but car just shut off as if turning off with the key, if that makes sense.... is that odd? 3. Anything i'm missing? Sorry for the long post, i'm just freaking out a little and about ready to throw the towel in due to issue after issue! Thanks heaps in advance mate! Kind regards, Ryan

Hi Ashneel, What are the chances of getting these made up for r32? Sorry if this has already been answered in the topic.

def interested in about a month. hope it will/is still running then.

ok cool. ill give it a crack, see how it goes. royalflush. i dont know how much better it is. i havn't ran my car with it. Main reason for me was just to slightly lower the comp.

Hey guys, i think i know that answer to this one already but thought i might get a second opinion. I have a Tomei 1.2mm metal head gasket which i put on my RB25, i turned the car over for about 10 secs, did a com test, motor was blown so pulled it down and took off the head gasket in the mean time. I bought another one assuming it cant be re-used...... but do ya reckon i could use it again? it sure was a quick $350 or whatever it cost. cheers

Hey mate, will you sepperate parts? im interested in the rims and rear sway bar. What condition are the tyres in? I can swap + cash for standard parts so you can sell car complete also. Cheers

i had the same problem once. ended up being that i didn't tighten up the line into the slave cylinder enough. try going over all the lines and tightening a little bit. Are you running the bleed hose into a jar with some fluid in it with the hose submerged?

there are a lot of hoses there dude, and they are all a pain to get to. It wont cost you much, prob buy a meter of the diameter you need from bursons for like $5. Just rip it off and take it down to a automotive supplies shop.

hehehe i did the same, had to grind the side of the spanner down!!

Is the sound exactly the same on both motors? If so do you still have the first 25? If its deep its most likely big end. Id be pulling down your old motor and inspecting to see. You could well have just bought a second dud motor unfortunately. Take it from me, you can be that un lucky, im goin through a similar situation. Either way, your best finding the initial problem with the first motor, at least then you my be able to identify what is causing it.

good price for an unreal turbo!!! Good luck with the sale

thanks mate. Well, im not gonna be asking for a refund, just a new motor. My issue though is, IF he does swap it over am i doing something wrong to blow the motor???? I dont want to just get another one and blow it also.... Any thoughts or input would be great as the warranty is over on Tuesday.

Ok, i dont know if i just have horribly bad luck or i am doing something wrong. Its a bit of a story so prep yourself. I have a 32 which i am doing an rb25 conversion in. I bought an rb25 originally, put it in, wired it all up, did a comp test and no good - cylinder 2 gone. i decided to finish it off and start it so that i know i have done everything correct. so i started it and it ran perfect, actually started AWESOME first crank every time. So i pulled the motor out, stripped in down and determined it was blown ring-lands. By this stage it was only a week or so till i got my license back so decided to buy ANOTHER rb25 as i couldnt bring myself to just replace the piston from the first motor without rebuilding the motor properly, getting block machined crack tested, do bearings yada yada...... Anyway, the second motor i bought through a wreckers with a warranty on it, AND had him do a comp test on it in front of me. (just on a stand not with the motor in the car). I had to switch over the throttle body, water temp sensor and sender, o2 sensor, and CAS. I dropped the motor in, and it wouldn't start. It seemed to be flooding? it would cough on first crank and then just crank and nothing..... I tried starting it on WOT and it started, BUT made a HORRIBLE knocking noise and i shut it off after about literally 1 second. I did another comp test on it, now there is no comp in cylinder 3 I just wanna know what it could be. Is there something im doing wrong or is it just bad luck?!?!?! i dont know how a motor could blow that easily, surely they are not that temperamental. Please help, i just wanna get the thing running. Cheers

Hey guys, as the title states, i believe these turbos have an oil feed restrictor built in yeah? My question is that i have this weird spring loaded (kinda looks like a valve if you look at it) type banjo that bolts into the turbo oil feed and want to know if its necessary to use it, or can i just use a normal banjo bolt and the turbo will resrict oil sufficiently. Cheers

bump i HAVE to buy one this weekend.

Hey mate, REALLY keen on the motor. Contact me asap to discuss, pm, sms or call me on 0422 034 450 Cheers

sorry, turbo

Hi, im after an rb25. must be able to hear/see it running and comp test done. Preferably with warranty/guarantee, but DEFINITELY with guarantee it has good comp!! Let me know, either pm call or sms on 0422034450

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I dont know why i care, but fck me!! Aside from the fact that you CANNOT get new OR second hand one for $600 or $1000 why are you commenting? if you dont want it......shut up.... As for this comment, i am REALLY hoping it is a joke. Good price mate, good luck with the sale.