Fitzpatrick Speed Works

A wet sump done correctly will provide a 95% perfect result, however it cant make you horsepower, and sometimes packaging a good wet sump it a problem due to ground clearence. For a street car a dry sump is overkill. I have made three custom wet sumps, one was 11 litres, the other 2 are 7.5-8 litres, I also make a custom trap door system for the inside. To be honest I dont think many of us could dirve our cars hard enough to warrant anything more substantial than a good wet system, the advantage on the dry sump as I see it is the small horsepower gains. Heres some pics

heres a pic of my pump I have for my rb. It is 4 stage with rear drive so I can run my power steering or a mechanical fuel pump.

I would never do one as a kit for a customer to fit themselves, there are to many variables when dealing with inexperienced people on important things like oiling systems. If you where to do a kit there is no way you could it for less than around $4 with all the brackets, sump mods, lines fittings, filter setup etc. Add to this there are a few approaches to doing it on a rb series, with a few of them not being very good.... Buying second hand is risky but it can be done, try ebay, the thing is they still go for pretty good money, plus shipping to Oz is around $120 on the last dry sump pump I got sent, and if you get it here and its no good you have to send it back to the states for service around $200-300 plus shipping both ways. It adds up!!!!! I think when SK said 2k he meant parts no labour or fabrications. The sump mods alone are worth around $500 if you take it to a metal worker more from performance shops. Retro there is no scavenge from the sump to the pump, there is pressure in and this is basically your oil supply line from the tank. IF people want to learn a little more general info about oiling systems go to moroso.com or petersonfluidsystems.com

well, email me your account numbers etc, and I will pop in some money. Troy are you in Australia??? Are your a3 like browny's, if not it might be easier to use what you have I can put some money in your account for photocopying, your time etc. Browny I can pay you for a3 photocopying if Troy cant help me out, and pay you for your time doing it, I dont mind who I get them off i just need them. Maybe if Browny supplies me what he has got and I can PM Troy for the rest of it or something. I dont mind. Troy my fax line is 02 6255 0025, i dont care if its 100 pages if you can fax it through send it on. Just probable best to send one page that is complicated to see that it is all transmitting good and I can make everything out. Thanks guys really appreciate your help.

RB30 its the only way!!!!!!

If you cant do any of the work yourself it will cost you around 6g. If you can make everything yourself and I mean everything brackets, custom aluminium machining filter setups etc it will still set you back around 2.5g with new parts. THere is alot of work involved to do it correctly, and not for someone to take on that hasnt had experience with oiling systems before. 4 stage menas there is for drive cogs inside the pump. 3 for scavenge and 1 for oil pressure, 5 means there are 4 scavenge and 6 is 5 scavenge etc. They work as a vacuum pump that draws oil out of the engine under vacuum into the pump then the oil is pumped back out under pressure to an oil reserve(this is the scavenge). the oil enters the reserve at the top and fills and pressurizes the oil in the tank and has an oil supply line (fromt the bottom of the tank) back to the pump on the pressure in side ( the first stage ie. pressure). this oil is re pressured through the pump and goes onto your engine. A normal sump can be modded to suit dry sump. I have pics of them setup on v8s and experience but I havent done my rb series yet and that is on serious back burner, not a priority, so sorry no pics.

Oh forgot to add email: s13drifter@yahoo.com Thanks again

The pin diagram wont help me cause I know what all the wires in the computer do more or less plus I am cutting all the ECU loom out of the car. Why I need to know is because I want to get rid of all the wiring except for the factory gauges, the brake and headlight switches and wires and the ATTESSA loom. I have pulled all the looms apart and there is some crossover wiring between the looms. I need all the wire IDs like what browny is talking about rather than the poor diagram that is in the workshop manual. Add to this when I got some panel beating done some wires where stripped by careless beaters, like I need diagrams dtailed enough to say brown wire with white strip in the ATTESSA loom is earth etc... Troy or browny is anything you have email friendly??? If not email me your bank account details and I will put some monet in your account to cover photocopying and your time, and postage. Thanks guys really appreciate. Daniel...

Mate I am in Canberra, unfortunately, interested though on this help front what were you thinking of?????

Hi All, Has anyone ever tracked down a wiring schematic for an r32 or even an r33 would be handy. I have a workshop manual and its rubbish, for example all the wires for the 4wd system are represented with one line that doesnt help me at all. I need something that is basically so detailed it has what every colour wire does and a whole diagram on all the seperate looms. With how many wires are in each. I think I am asking to much as Nissan cant help me and the workshop manual isnt going to help. ANyone can you help and if you can it would be so appreciated, even if you get something in japanese I can get it translated. Cheers,. Daniel

Motor has been sold!!!!

As someone who sells a very small amount of custom manufactured parts I will tell you the other side of the story. I receive endless amounts of PM's and emails from people that are just time wasters, "hey bro my cuz says he can make it for half what you want so can you match his price bro, sick". There are so many time waster full stop and it has gotten to the point where I almost dont resond or respond simply by saying call me if you are genuine.... Calling people shows you arent just sitting at the computer at work and just chasing the cheapest price... I have come to learn a few things recently the cheapest price wont always win my custom. I want someone I can call and will give me the time of day and someone that will be straight with me NO BS. So to all you people who send out email to 10-20 places after one part I say to you dont expect a reply, and dont be upset if you dont get one, call if your genuine, emails are so impersonal and with the amount of time wasters you get it becomes hard to decipher the genuine enquires from the BS ones. the phone is your friend. Another note is people are trying to make money emaisl take time to respond to and not everyone might be as computer savvy as yourself, anyone can quickly talk to you. I know if I sat on the computer all day responding to tender quotes etc sent to me I would never get anywork done and I would go broke and for what??? I can go broke sitting on the beach doing nothing!!!!

I plumb my water returns back around into the front of the plenum where the water leaves the head to go to the radiator. On a rb26 head its really easy there is a spot rigth next to the radiator hose from the head, on an rb26 I just tap in a brass fitting.... Heres a pic to explain the side of the block. Hope this helps

Still available???

fuel.....???? It could be that you are driving a sports car and cant compare it to a mirage or getz!!!! Its a pretty small engine in a largish car with not the best aerodynamics, 14 litres per hundred can be improved on but its not terribly bad

Scribble its quite easy to do. The water lines are there the tubo feed and return are not. With the high pressure you need to take the filter off and put a slot in the top of the thread where the filter bolts on you then get a really big flat head screw driver and remove this thread ( it is like a stud). Okay then go and buy a long drill bit froma specialty store, I used a 4.5mmx 250mm long drill bit and started from the turbo side of the engine and drilled through, you will find cast is quite soft but be very deligent using wd as a lube and not going down to hard or coming back out... you will need to come back out quite often to get rid of the built up metal...I used a cordless as its easier to go gentle on.... For the return you need to center punch the flat spot and drill it out and keep stepping up the drill. Tapping it is quite difficult as its damn big, I used 3/4 bsp tap its a 2 man job to get the thread started but after that you home and hose!!!!!

Well it would be a big single turbo so both exhausts would kind of be like a log manifold facing foword, and then run the dump back under the passenger side engine mount or something aroun there. The biggest hastle for me as although its his car I will be doing all the work is cutting and shutting the sump to suit an engine that 1 has a totally different bolt pattern on the bottom then secondly is 2 cylinders shorter in length but wider!!!

Adrian interesting point you raise about the old school boys... My old man and my uncles and his old boy ( read 50+) friends used to race nearly every weekend at castlereigh, and they all say the same thing when we talk about skylines at bbqs etc "geez there quick for a car you can drive everyday in comfort".... Back in the day my old man was king cause he used to be able to build 202's in hr holdens that ran in 14s... And they used to race a fj with a 427 chev in it that was registered and did low 12's high 11's on street tyres. They all used to travel down to melbourne in it, it was bright purple with "ANY TIME" signwriten down the side in a austin powers type font, and race people for slips, great storys. back to the point that was basically one of the very fastest genuine street cars in australia back in the early seventies and was running low 12's... Now to say you run a 13 or even a 12 doesnt have the impact it should, cause thats still a damn fast street car, plus alot of people dont actually know what a true 12 second car goes like... The amount of young people that I talk to that think they have been in 11 10 second cars then you take them in a 12 second car and they shit there pants and think it runs 9's or something ridiculous. Numbers are too casually thrown around these days without people backing them up!!!!

Sweet mate looks really good. I am in talks with a mate at the moment about putting this model v8 or a lexus v8 in a r33 gtr and make the 4 wheel drive work and add a turbo. Whats the room like around the brake booster and the clutch master cylinder, and how much clearence is there around the exhuasts on both sides??? Good luck, its a bloody good idea!!!

I have rebuilt a transfere case but never added extra clutches, I guess it can be done but I would be a little worried about not getting it right and the clutches wearing out due to contacting each other all the time. There isnt alot of room in their so make sure if you do it measure everything carefully to make there is enough ample room to allow for it. I just rebuilt mine with all new clutch plates and seals as the other where pretty worn and the gearbox I did it on only had a genuine 100k on it and never had a great deal of power so I would hate to see some of the thrashed ones... Hope this helps!!!

the 520kg would probably do it....as for the repco one if its the one I am thinking of thats a blue with extra gusteting that i have seen at repco we are using the same one supprting a fully assemble clevo and they are damn heavy!!! If you are going to buy one invest the extra money as it will last you a long time and serve more purpose!!!

just get one that will handle a ford v8 and thats all you will ever need for a rb series motor unless of coarse you have a sump with a diff then make sure you get the heavy duty suckers... The ones they have at supercheap etc should manage a rb30 complete....

Sounds like a 256 odd and 264 combo would suit your requirements perfect!! As cubes said the smaller cams provide alot more punch mid range, however they will still be a hell of a lot etter than the standard item in top also!!!! Keep in mind also anything over 9.5mm lift will require head mods so to keep it simple and still get huge gains go a 262 or smaller setup it will also provide more mid range over a standard setup or a bigger duration setup which is important on a street car. Let me tell you a little secret, a high average power on a street car will always out perform a peaky car that might have more peak power. EG. a car with 70 odd horspower more from 4000-6000RPM and will always feel faster and be faster on the street than a car with 70 more horspower at 7500-8000RPM!!!! So your cam choice would be spot on!!!

Tough question Jimih and its understandable why you havent had straight and complete answers. As a personal preference I dont believe in miss matching and have only seen benefits to it on lower level cars ie. 256 and 264!!! However I cant give you alot of definative answers as I have only done one car with differnent cams the ones I have already mentioned and didnt change to the same both side for a direct comparison. The advantage of this setup is suppose to be you can run a good size duration on the exhaust side to help your turbo spool and boost harder but not sacrifice idle and low down torque due to the smaller inlet side. This is good in priciple but the time you get into the higher numbers like 264/272 there is enough cam duration overlap to cause the "lumpiness" anyway, which is alway pretty minimal even up to 280's in a rb series engine. I dont think there are any real cons to the setup the only being on a 264 cam the biggest lift you can run is the JUN 9.7mm due to running any bigger the japs have found at the lower duration causes problems with the ramp rates on the cam, so if you are wanting more lift which does give more peak power you are limited wheras with 2 272 yu can run the big lift on both sides. Sorry dont know how much this has helped, but I dont want to talk on heresay!!

probably cause it is cheaper and suits Christian more, you know to buy software for and host a forum isnt free and you dont pay for it........SO STOP WHINGING. Not being harsh just fair!!!