Fitzpatrick Speed Works

In parts I ordered all the stuff to do a dry sump in a mates torana, with all the parts supplied from an american wholesaler at a really unbelievable price the parts still cost me $1029 USD!!! The earlier pic of the fitting welded to the outside is done as it is a pic of the AVO rb30 GTR, in a rb30'd gtr you need to run an external oil pump pickup, as the factory pickup on the rb30 block sits directly above the axel tube in the rb26 4wd sump thus you cant fit it!!! An external oil pick up has no perfomance advantage!!!

They are a fair bit bigger but shouldnt be ridiculous on a rb20 id say this mod in conjuction with cam gears it should bring on full boost by around 3.2-3.8k.... If it a high flow they are generally good for around 220rwkw, and if it is a high flow dont worry about the turbos age just ask when it was high flowed cuase all the wearing items should have been replaced at the same time!!!

pete cheapest is acl replacement bearings from your local repco etc. Standar nissan bottom end bearings is $189+TAX, Holden I think was more again. ACL standard replacement Ie. non race series. $96+TAX Dave, Good work mate thats really nice for only 10psi, run her in quick so we can see what is really achievable!!!

yes this is an 11 second car as mentioned you shouldnt run radials and slick on a car this fast thats why it just"snapped" mid track!!!!!! Look as mentioned if you run your 18 on the front and MT's on the back you will be fine as long as you think your car wont crack 120MPH on the strip and by andra rules 12.5seconds which is around 110mph so theres a good guide to stick by. If you feel the car is around low 13s or slower you should have no problems!!!

They should be fine without front runners till you start cracking 120mph+. You will notice if you use them on the street (which you shouldnt) they will move around and feel squishy in the rear if you corner but all you have to do is remember that they are drag tyres they are meant for a straight line they dont have the same sidewall construction as a road or circut tyre so no ricky racer cornering!!!! As for a burnout they will still benefit from a bit of a burnout especially because you will be rolling through the water..... Best bet dont start your burn in the water roll through it and past it about a meter... This is an old trick because if you do a burn in the water the water flicks up in you inner gaurd and as you sit staging it drips down onto the tyre, water off the line = bad traction. THere will be water on the tyre so a burnout should start pretty easy but like i said you dont need to put on a smoke show or sit on the limiter just a quick burnout a little smoke and that should be suffecient. Good luck...

there is an old thread about this, and also a thread on skylinesdownunder about it. Start by spelling weight right ie.. not waight and your search button should show some info.... I have the weights of nearly every removable part writen down somewhere as I have totally stripped my car. Theres no point to alot of stuff like the heater and ac under the dash is suprisingly light but the dash pad is quite heavy.... Wheels and suspension related stuff is where you will have the biggest gains!!!

if you get shinny finish you can just wet rub it with 1500 grit and water and get a perfect mat surface..... Im still keen on all part I first said I was, but I want a more indicative price on what the difference is between full carbon and, composite.

I would be interested in getting the lexen glass for the doors not the doors themselves, I would also be interested in carbon headlight intake, carbon bootlid, and definately the dash, I will take a dash regardless of anything else!!! Are you gaugin interest to see its worth trying to get a bulk discount??? I know this stuff is expensive and I am not going to haggle on price but a rough indication would be good before I commit!! Cheers, Daniel.

rb30 way better option at half the price!!!

I know you mentioned no blown v8s but the cheapest is definately a vb or vc commodore. -THe car= $1000 in pretty good cond - Motor= $4000 308 with a stroker at least 355 - Tranny=$3000 tricked up manualised auto -Diff= $2500 9 inch with 4 link setup - Wheels/tyres and miscalaneous= $2500 All up $13000 ANd if you want to go injected, add another 2g. But rotary was my second choice its just the base cars are worth alot these days!!!

reece mcgregors GTR in NZ runs fr18s do a search on skylinesdownunder for photos or google it... ALso a while back there was a red circut GTR on the cover of zoom with charcoal fr's on it!!! they look pretty good and would look real nice polished ina 19 on a GTR....

theres about $700 worth of machining in preping a new engine on a rb30, and buy the sounds of it around $700 in parts assuming they are only standard type pistons... So I wouldn't pay much more than $1200.

Thanks for all the replies.... I felt like saying that its tuff tittie you bought them in the first place but tried to help him out... What if he put them straight on the vehicle and they exploded??? How was I to know that would happen, how can I predict the future???? Its like if I bought a second hand TV, checked it out saw it working, took it home and it blew when I first turned it on... thats not the sellers problem when honestly they didnt know that would happen!!!!! I just wanted to see if people agreed that something like he is claiming a cracked sidewall would be noticable and could be seen on inspection.... ANd thatI have done the right thing refusing giving him money back off the price after he has taken the goods.... the reason he didnt notice this is cause there was nothing wrong with the tyre when I sold it to, and thats my arguement!!!!!!! Once they are his then whatever happens to the tyre once under his care is not problem.... THis is exactly what I have told him I just wanted too check if I was saying and acting the right way, because I buy and sell on here alot and didnt want to get my reputation tarnished by a tyre shop or indeed the buyer trying to make me responsible for something that common sense says I have nothing to do with. As a note I rang Falkin Aus today about the issue and he agreed the side walls on a modern tyres dont just explode or crack. He talked me through some causes to the type of damamged explained to me 1) a heavy impact, which on low profile tyres usually results in a dent and/or buckled rim)very noticable) 2) a torn side wall or cracked side wall from galging the tyre with somethin and he said it would stand out as a big bulge in the tyre or as a crack which leaked air rapidly. The wheels had niether before I sold them.. Again thanks to all that listed, Cheers, Daniel.

yeah buyer beware but the thing that gets me cut is that they werent in bad condition, I definately sold them to him without the damage that magically occured at the tyre shop and was somehow my fault!!!!! I just wanted to gauge what people thought of the situation, and what you thought my obligation was cuase he is under the impression I owe him two new tyres cause the tyre shop claims that it wasnt their fault.

Okay before I start my story please let me say in no way am I either excepting responsibility nor am I blaming the second party. (I am blaming the third) Recently I had some wheels for sale on the classified section of this site. The wheels were second hand as stated, but in very good condition. I stated everything about the wheels and was very upfront about all physical aspects of the wheels. After heaps of interest and the usual time wasters a genuine buyer came foword. Due to the fact I had dealt with so many non legit buyers in the past and had so many time wasters I was really specific with aspects of the tyre wear and the condition of the wheels and tyres, as I didnt want to waste his time nor my own. I know I explained everything accurately as we meet in Sydney to make the exchange and I didnt want to drive 3 hours get there and have the buyer say I didnt mention something and say they are not what I said and not buy them. Now the deal went through, the buyer expressed that the rear tyres where worn on the insides as I explained but was happy that the front ones where better than I had explained so that was a pleasant suprise. He thoroughly inspected the wheels agreed they where in the condition I had specified and bought them. Please remember he inspected the wheels then bought them I didnt hide anything the wheels where there for him to look at!!! The following day My brother and I both recieved phone calls and messages saying we had to organise a way to refund partial payment on the rims as they where not what he agreed on. I didnt really understand as he looked at them took them and paid us, there is no secret science to tyres and wheels you can see the condition and see exactly what you are getting when you look at them.... I rang him today and it was explained to me that he went to get the tyres rotated on the rims, the same day the tyre shop rang him and said the sidewalls on one or two (dont remember) of the tyres had exploded out (ie. split the inner casing). They then went on to say it wasnt their fault and the sidewalls were already split by the previous owner (ME) from running them on too low of a pressure.... The buyer now wants us to refund him the price of two new tyres as he believes the tyre shop!!!! ( they where always run on 38psi) Any respectable tyre shop will tell you, changing really low profile tyres is a pretty hard job. You have to be super carefull with the prongs so as not to scratch the rims but keeping the prong up off the rim means you run the risk of tearing the inside casing of the tyres, which is what I believe happened in this case.... Heres my arguement: First the buyer inspected the wheels and tyres, if the sidewall was split you could either see a huge bulge in the sidewal or see a crack/tear in the tyre, it would be really obvious. Second the tyres would not hold any pressure, I have had the wheels sitting in the workshop for over 4 months and they havent lost 1 pound of air, and if it was a torn inside wall they would go down over night so even before he took them to the tyre shop you would notice something is up and the tyre place would inform him about it before they started basically to cover their ass. Third logic says if you take a perfectly good product to a certain place to have the product worked and something goes wrong at that place, wouldnt you blame them not some guy three steps back in the equation???? To put a long story short if there was damage to the wheels it would be blatently obvious, and I would not have sold the wheel in such a state, but beside that fact the buyer inspected the wheel and bought them, as he could see they were in good condition and had no damage. The reason behind this story is to get peoples opinions on what I should do??? I dont want to seem like an A hole to this guy as I think he is a pretty decent guy, but he is under the impression I screwed him, and its pretty hard not to get angry when someone accuses you of that when its not true!!! So any advice opinions is greatly appreciated. Regards, Daniel

racewind you sent me a PM a while ago but I accidently deleted it with you phone number.... My mum is actually looking to sell her car soon so before you go off to sydney it might be worth a look, its a bit more expensive than alot of the other skylines on the market but at the end of the day you get what you pay for. You can call me on 0418 327 427 if you keen, I'll let you make the moves. If your not interested thats cool as we will just trade in!!! I think its worth buying local because you feel more comfortable when inspecting the car in a more familiar environment, also you can look at the car longer and maybe a few times and its easier to find out about the vehicle.

the problem with the rb20 head which is the same casting as the rb26(rb26 everything is just way bigger ie. ports, valves, cyclinder chamber, is everything is so small and alot of it you have to keep like that!! Around the studs on the exhaust for instance is a big chuck of alloy to strengthen to the stud which on an rb26 you can remove as the studs are further apart as the ports are bigger on a rb20 you have to keep them. Id suggest for the money you will spend on die grinder bits and dremel flat polisher sand paperbits, around $200+, I would by a garaunteed performance enhancer such as adjustable cam gears or something along those lines.... Cheers.

These wheels have been sold!!!

yeah you usualoly cant hear it in the car only when like you said you roll and everything nice and quite you might just notice but on all gtrs its pretty noticable once you pop the hood!!!! Yours I would say sounds pretty normal to me!

I have one, contact me on 0418 327 427 if your still keen.....

GTRs make this noise standard as they are set with such a large lifter to cam tolerance around 18thou in the old language or .35mm which is a really big clearence and causes them to tick away. Usualy people over react but yours could be louder than normal and i wouldnt worry about it as it is a really big job to fix. If your dead set checking it pop the cam covers off and with a feeler gauge turn the engine over and on the base circles of ever cam lobe check the clearences. If its over 22thou you probably should re shim it to close the clearence but check it first and if you have any probs post here as it will require a massive post to explain how to fix it......Hope this helps.

are they 26x9 slicks or 26x10. I know it is alot of work but if you are having it as a drag specific car its worth the effort= 28 inch tall slicks. They are night and day between 26 and 28 the only limiting factor is they dont fit easily you would have to make some mods. Here is Oz we have a really popluar car for street style drag cars, and it the VL commodore, now on a VL we recently worked on we tried everything to get it to go faster than 10.6 softer springs, harder different spring rates different eveything the car still was doing 10.5's at 135MPH+ as soon as we rolled the gaurds and fitted the bigger slick it not only dropped times, pressure was far less crucial it stoped squitting and bogging or bagging the wheels and it stopped alot of track wondering. Just something to consider as alot of the 28 tyres are arounf 27.5 they might fit easier than I thought. However having said all that the JAPs only run 26 and they do the times so keep playing with damper rates I guess. Cheers, Daniel.

standard excepts for the RB30 OS KIT, Motec and 100s of R & D hours hahaha good to see they checked there sources for the article hahaha.

yeah I do advertisements, I design logos and corporate id's, posters, signage, short animations, web pages all types of stuff just imagine anything that need to be layed out to be printed with type a Graphic Designer usually designs, whether its good or not is a totally different matter!!haha

I just opened up my own Graphic Design business, JINX DESIGN in Mitchell, I also started a mechanics aprentiship which i gave away, but I am currently about to start a night course at tafe to become a qualified welder and boiler maker so I can do that on the side.