Fitzpatrick Speed Works

i rekon a briggs and stratton 187cc with a 192cc piston and rod, and 5.2mm lift cam from a 202cc briggs will own you all!!! back to a comment made earlier the very fastest unopened s15 in the country is running high elevens, what are the rest of them doin 13s ( i dont really know but this is my point).. that was useless as it adds nothing to the question asked, a one off occurence.... thats like saying the most powerfull totally stock rb26 in oz was marios with 444rwkw.. whopty sh.t it lasted a week then blew a hole in the engine!!! id say go with r32 they are better for quick times due to inherent chassis geometry and the stiffness of the rear end, if you want drift go s13 s14 or s14 due to the tail happy chassis set up which isnt fantastic for drag as they bog down alot more than a r32 will (stock for stock). both great cars in my experience with vl's with rb20's and datts with sr20's you can always get more power out of the rb20 due to, as pre mentioned, the revs... mate my advise would be drive both and work out what you like as the cars are both awesome in there own right and both can do what you are asking of them!

still keen no reply from gtr shop yet

mine has one they come stock on the r32 not sure on r33 they should though try places forementioned

thanks mate if you could PM me a price for the part that includes freight, doesnt have to be in AUD i can work it out, that would be excellent.

good point amu but this doesnt matter as it is not making power as opposed to not cruising nicely.... WOT is WOT if the computer knows that, which it does, then its tuning and so forth... help, go for your real problem as i have stated before your car isnt making numbers at 22psi... it makes 22psi so theres no turbo related problem the problem lies between where your boost gauge is plumed and the exhaust ports!!!!

jamezillar that is pure gold do you mind if i use that in a booklet i am doing for uni on "how to be an aussie bloke" that would fit in well in my tall poppy part!!! Please let me know asap!! Also Abo Bob please post your results, as i am thinking of doing this mod myself soon!!

at a guess its a 1.0 rear housing... get a few places to look at it as a basic engine checkup and see if they all concur similar idead about your car... i know this is money but it will iron out most of the probs... forget the t piece to although its not ideal the car still runs 22psi, agains boost controllers affect response and delevery. if the gauge is running from the plenum and it reads 22 psi then the bleeder is working in creating this boost... in responding we need to remember its not that he cant make boost its that the power figure for that boost reading isnt right which means its a ignition issue ie. the fuel isnt being lite, or a fueling issue theres not enough or theres to much fuel... look at this would be my advise to you get a better tuner someone who knows haltech, go to haltech.com.au or something and look up there distributers for your area im sure most of them are workshops with dynos use one of them to tune the vehicle. theres also a forum on the site you can ask whos the best in your area!!

still keen

irs not important as it is still pushing 22psi, which ever way you look at it 22psi is 22psi, only the characteristics of boost delevier and response will be affected by the ar no. on the turbo... eg... 1.06 on my gtr came in a 5800 .86 comes in a 4800 on the same bosst it stil makes the same figures.. the problem is not the haltech they are fantastic computers, they just need someone that knows about haltechs to work on them.... i recomend you call this bloke www.justenginemanagement.com he knows about them more tha anyone he used to make them before starting his own business...

with a conversion i would also be looking for all air leaks first...everywhere intercololer pipes vacuum lines everything check fuel filter then look at cam timing if adjusted take back to stock then go from there on a dyno. then check plugs and gap. set timing to 20 deg adv at 1200rpm remove exhaust leave just the dump on the dyno check air fuel ration should be around 12- 12.5 to 1 for a good tune run something a little better than a t piece but it doesnt have to be electronic just something a bit better.. check regulator pressure make sure it is aroun 35-40psi at idle the halteck is a map sesor have you totally rewired or bought a plug in harness for it check your map senso is a 3 bar item check you are getting wot some of these are drawing at straws and considering you have made strong power at lower level it leads me to believe there are two problems ignition or fueling.... check coil packs, check regulator and read you ignition maps on higher boost thats what a halteck is good for look at them on the pc... hope this helps!!

im not tryin to plug the stuff in any way shape or form, i can not believe the utter bs that has come out of some of your mouths or rather fingers.... Fark me does anyone here lik it when v8 bogan rekon that the pushrod is better than the overhead cam, no, but most of you are using that exact same mentality.. do you think when henry for said lets get heaps of workers each doina small jobs everyone said "sh.t!!! good idead henry ol' chap that will revolutionize mankind!" hell NO everyone thought he was mad, when a certain italian (name escapes me starts with g) said in the 15th century hey the earth is round and the sun is the center of the galaxy he was locked up by the church for 22 yrs and nearly murdered!!! shit everyhting deserves a go.. based soley on the roil my turbo spooled 300rpm earlier and on a t51 that makes me happy.. if you care about 1 km extra out of your tank of gas or 1rwkw extra, you are a penny pinching tight ars#, and are probably a person that whinges about petrol prices. (go to japan and check the price and they use more than us)... for me its about looking after my engine, cause when it is a good ten g for a decent rebuild 35 bucks sounds pretty good to me. dont slander something you havent tried... thats my only point, slander it all you like after you have tried it for your self and it doesnt work, but hey i remember 6 years ago a guy brought in to the country an r33 gtr with a dodgey 3rd gear and a mechanic told him to use this new stuff he just got onto, redline shockproof gear oil, goin by what it says it will nearly eliminate the problem, he almost yelled at this mech for tryin to sell him a scam and oil addative that i quote "is slick 50 renamed and works just as well'....time shows and i think all of us here agree it works pretty damn well.. give something ago... i cant imagine a life as skeptical as some of you seem to be, and no i dont have a money tree and yes i work hard for money to spend on my car but if you never try and experiment with new things your life will be pretty lame and boring. if it doesnt work shit bag it, for a free trial who cares, if it does your doin your engine a huge favour and that what i care about... let the roasting begin

i use this stuff and it really works no BS i was skeptical when i was recommended it off my mechanic who is the canberra distributer, but it makes a plain bearing turbo spin like a ball bearing and it stops gtr valvestrain noise which shows how well it works... its great stuff..

still wanted

no worries thanks mate

im after the front left hand side inner gaurd linner the one that sits just behind the intercooler with the slots in it.. dont car location will organise frieght and so forth, obviously it must be in good nick as the one i have two of the holes where the bolts go through have torn..

do you have a inner gaurd liner that goes just behind the intercooler you know the black plastic thingies on the inside of the font guards. how much if you have it

power has very little to do with belt slippage... its the rpm that causes it mainly, sure minor issue is inertia from quick engine acceleration but its changes in revs and high revs that cause belt tension issues and slippage... so hondas would benefit if they are good hondas like type r's and nsx's...still no word on if this is actually happenin or not????

well done ylw man are you unemployed or an insomniac.. were is the time... nah just sh.ittin mate well done nice work im impressed better do some jaw excersises

a good 93 or 94 r32 will always be worth more if not that its newer but due to all the sceptisism behind 89's.... i can see it being a big thing soon to brag about the year of our skylines...mines a 93 its better, mines a 89 i got a better deal than you on the same car!!! they are one and the same car, we all love them all, you are getting a bargain..not just 89's, but look in the classifieds there are a few really nice 93's in there for 30k 29k neg... thats unreal, for what you get... if you can get the same quality in a car 4-5 years older again, well done to you to... fact is most gtrs in aus arent perfect dont everyone kid themselves look at your own cars im sure they have small accident repairs or other problems, otherwise if your car was perfect it probs would of sold in the domestic market and not at an exporters auction... i guess what i wanna say is good luck to everyone with gtr's the nature of the market in japan ensures an element of instability in regards to oz getting the best cars,, if you have a good car 89- to present and you got a good deal well done to you...

mate if you bring them to show and shine and it works on your car i will buy 2 sets on the spot... ylw mate i did some work in a shop makin carbon, if you show us all how to make a home made vacumm and oven for true carbon fibre construction then i will bow down to the master...its the most frustrating and money hungry sh.it in the world the old carbon fibre... also make sure there is a detailed post for all of us to make our dry sumps mate... your a legg

dry sump has an advantage on anything, i am considerin doin this myself when my engine comes out... are you making your own bitsa kit to do it or are experts telling what goes where??? good luck man im keen to see it work as am i these gilmer belts

late 93 r32 gtr check out this thread for a little background. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...10&page=1&pp=25

yeah the hsv and chev applications the gear is somewhat a slip over thing and also bolts onto the existing balancer... you cant get rid of a balancer just cause you want to its there to balance the crank and reduce vibrations and to offset the weight of the fly clutch and pressure plate it will have to slip over this means it need to be machined down a little to achieve the right size drive, or the other cogs ie water pump power steer have to be downsized accordingly to achieve the same ration and speed as a stock setup.. good luck i looked into it but didnt want to chance buing the drive then stuffing a few getting it right id rather wait til someone else ran the risk with their money!! but keep us all posted..

no its chromed its all a bit dirty at the moment and not quite finished but its working out well so far boost response is alot stronger and im having heaps of fun with the external wastegate pipe and pedestrians. the gf rekons it sounds like its goin to hurt someone or sumthing

here she is all bolted back in place.. car goes as well now as it did before on 13psi now only using 9psi so im happy tune up will be soon ill keep you all posted.