Fitzpatrick Speed Works

paulr33, mate we need a bit more info if you seriously want a figure.. are you supplying the head, or anything else for that matter??....what car is it for??...what figures are you chasin??? stock bottom end or modded with all top shelf parts??? Im doin all the engine work myself included some machining, so al i have to do is buy rods, pistons, crank girdle, oil pump, bearings... should get out of it for 4k.... double to tripple that if your paying for it to be done!!!

welli think you mean the rb25 rb30 conversion, cause the gtr head ie rb26 plenum and throttle body are no where near the bonnet and dont cross over the rocker cover, thus it is totally different in relation to bonnet clearance. 1) the r33 engine bay is alot higher and the bonnet doesnt swoop down at the front as much 2) your throttle body and plenum go across the rocker cover the gtr has a side plenum so with the previous an added 50mm... a r25/30 conversion on a r32 is alot lot tighter than on a r33... 3) r33 strut braces sit flat across the bay, most r32 bend up towords the bonnet to clear the engine by along way especially the nismo one... there is no clearance issues here rather at the front on the head!!! Hope thats all clear

thanks mate really appreciate the feedback. this is all for a gtr sorry if there was confusion on the silvia front with the user name and all... i wanted to know if i can make it fit an r32 GTR without cutting the bonnet.... also how can i tell an n1 pump from stock the bloke could be talkin it up!!!????? Again thanks mate, legend.

i have some headlights r32 Gtr projector style for sale... two are matching they are in reasonable condition a little bit hazey in the front; what you would expect with there age, they are cleanable i believe. the other is only a few years old i bought it new off nissan in 99 due to an accident recently i had them both replaced so i have one spare, its in great condition and is the left hand side..(small crack on one of the storks but as the light pushes against this to be tightened its not a drama at all :wassup: ) 140 the lot..

oh one more how do you tell a n1 oil pump from a stocker???

i have a gtr i want to put the rb30 block in i have the block i know how to do the majority of the work.. QUESTIONS 1) i want to use r32 N1 oil pump, do i have to fit the jun or tomie crank colett thing? 2) i understand the gtr sump doesnt fit straight on any ideas on what has to be done apparently a 10mm spacer girdle has to be made? Is it just a spacer, what has to be done about the bolts that are studs with nut on the like around the diff o the rb26 sump???? If it is just a spacer will 6mm be enough??? 3) it 750 hp safe and what revs can i make.. i want at least 7500rpm-8000rpm (due to the cams i have already), sub zero say its cool for 8500+, not sure bout that... i will be going the best assembly i can ie. crack testing, o ringing, cross drilled and balnced crank.. do you think its all possible... 4) apparently my bonnet wont fit on due to the extra 30mm from the rb30, anyone know for sure... can i modify the engine mounts to get it sitting back down???? i really dont want to cut holes will it fit with the cam cover left off??? this is on a r32 5) what water pump pulley should i go rb26 or rb30 as they are different sizes, i assume the rb26 one is bigger due to more revs?? 6) sk whats your opinion on scat h beam rods i have heard they are the go??? Thanks guys i do have a seperate thread on this but maybe some missed it so i thought id try here,,,, thanks again,,,

what water pump pulley should i use as the rb26 and rb30 are different. hopefully some of you other guys that have done the swap or even done the rb25 swap can help me out....

yes i know that there is not individual earths ect what i should have said was are you still using a nissan ignitor module or is the computer pulsing the coils for you????

hey Sydneykid, what do you do in relation to the taller engine do you cut holes in bonnets??? also i need some more advice on the girdle thing i have to make for the sump is it just a spacer??? if so will 6mm be enough??? Also are there any oil gallery/restrictor stuff i can do?? im goin to reduce the size flowing up to the head any other suggestions??? thanks again ppls

im unsure on eagles specs but scats are 4340 chromoly same as carrillos, are machined and balanced with 1 gram of each other same as carrilos, and come with arp 7/16 2000 non replacable bolts same as carrillos.... i know carrillos are better but for an option thats half the price they stack up pretty good... best h-beam value for money i can find....

yeah thanks mate, i really appreciate your input.. I understand the pistons might be a bit more it was more a stab at finding out what you were selling for haha... id be really happy with 700-750 hp at the crank that said it is nice if your engine does that with head room for more.... i was told buy a reputable supercharging company in oz that they have seen scats in many supercharged and turbocharged v8's doin 1000hp at the crank... going on cylinder pressures rpms i am willing to trust that the scats will be safe for 800hp??? Please more info needed on this girdle i have to make???? pretty please I will work out something in regards to bonnet clearance theres no way im having a hole or massive bulge..... thanks again

im buildin the engine, i wanted to keep the parts list budget under 4 grand, that is not including machining and so forth but with rods only being 1200 and hopefully the pistons around the same i dont see why i cant do it...what are your thoughts??? I really dont want to go dry sump 1 due to the expense, i know how great it is and all, and 2 due to it will be more drag work than circut... my budget doesnt go on forever id be happy if i got out of it all inclusive for around 6..that include me doing all assembly, prep, install ect ect

cool thanks for the quick reply still more questions though 2) where ca n i get these oil pumps?? 3) do you have any new forgies??? 4) What are the way? was i on the right track??? 5) it will be a race engine, hardly ever driven on street 6) no way cutting a hole that looks homo, must be something i can do?? Currently Clevite h series bearings arp main bolts and head bolts scat 4340 h beam rods je forged pistons floating gudgeon mods to sump amd head oil galleries a few other things but thats general, it will be pretty full on but not to your level descr8

Okay i have read the sticky but nearly all that is attaining to the rb25/30 combo.. i have a gtr i want to put the rb30 block in i have the block i know how to do the majority of the work.. QUESTIONS 1) Can i use the rb26 harmonic balancer? 2) if i use an r32 oil pump do i have to fit the jun or tomie crank colett thing? or is it easier to use r33 if so where do i order these from nissan only has part numer on r32? 3) what pistons should i use rb26 ones, i will be goin forgies, plus i am using scat h-beam rods, is that all good? 4) i understand the gtr sump doesnt fit straight on any ideas on what has to be done apparently a 10mm spacer girdle has to be made? 5) it 750 hp safe and what revs can i make i want at least 7500rpm-8000rpm (due to the cams i have already), sub zero say its cool for 8500+, not sure bout that... i will be going the best assembly i can ie. crack testing, o ringing, cross drilled and balnced crank.. do think its all possible... 6) apparently my bonnet wont fit on due to the extra 30mm from the rb30, anyone know for sure... can i modify the engine mounts to get it sitting back down???? Sorry for all the questions, thanks in advance for any answers i really appreciate your wisdom on this... Daniel

are you using the ignitor module or are you earth the coils straight from the computer

okay first things first 1st and 2nd hour: I removed all the front panels off my car. First went the bonnet, then the head lights, grill,blinkers, bumper bar, bumper bar support( i suggest if you havent taken your bar off before the screws that hold this to the chassis will be stuborn they are 14mm, spray some crc or similar and come back in 20 mins should help). also all the splash trays and so forth however i left the inner gaurd linners and gaurds on..Intercooler and as much intercooler piping as possible even the engine bay stuff, piping also can be stubborn just use patience and dont go sticking at them with screw drivers as you might be up for a new set of pipes...behind the cooler sits your aircon normally; mine has already been removed but this is all straight foword im sure you can work it all out just chuck a rag over the first pipe you crack so the gas gets caught in that or better still get it degassed... pull off the lock bar support but leave the locking mechanism attached to the wire as its a real pain when trying to get the wire on later. 3rd hour: drain your radiator fluids and remove the radiator and top pipe as it gets in the way bottom pipe can be left... with this done you should be looking like this(pic 2). Next is power steering, undo your resevior from the strut tower and get a bucket and try and tip out as much as you can.... on the drivers side there is piping that goes to the front as a little cooler the piping has fins on it.... get a bucket underneath and take this off.. it will start to leak out what i did to speed things up was grab the air compressor and put it on 4-5psi and blow air through one pipe be ready and it will start coming out the other pipe at a rate of knots. Now take off your resevior from the rubber piping... next crack those really big bolt on the top of your powersteer pump they are around 19mm i think and will need some force...be carefull when undoing as there are two copper washers for each bolt keep these you need them... push these pipe out of the way as you can leave them connected to the rack....now undo the bolts that hold the pump to the block there are three then youve finished that part.... 4th 5th 6th Hour: Time to start on your turbos, mine was relatively easy due to a big single and the fact i have done it so many times... first drain your oil from the engine... undo water and oil lines... take off exhaust or at least dump pipes.... on twins i thing you can take off the turbo attached to the manifold but on mine the turbo has to come off then the manifold.... carefull with all exhaust bolt use lots of crc/wd40 and i feel for you if you get cross threads as its regular with exhaust bolts can take up alot of time....now you shold be lookin like this (pic3)... Next post tomoz morning will include the pics as mentioned and gearbox removal.....

i think it's the fact endless dont really care as much as any of us would if the os kit stripped itself, they probs have 4 spare sets... every high hp gtr i know of in aus that has had an os has rooted 3rd.... call domenic from autostyle and ask him what he thinks of the os-cross mission or straight cut gears...not good... also john munro ran a trust box and tore it a new one, they arent worth it in the end...will be goin a gtr box with pfitnez gears soon i dont think its the go but thats what the bloke wants....let you know how it goes probs be talking him into a holinger in 3 months

As im doin mine at the moment i thought i would provide a tutorial.. It is pretty straight foword but it might help some to see it in writing and maybe show a few things you might not of considered... Please dont reply to this thread until i have finished, as i am not doin it all in one day(but need to write it down before i forget), i would like all the posts to stay together...photos will be up soon

hey mate if you wana wait till after the weekend i will have a step by step in the tutorials with pics and how i did it, as im pulling my engine out this weekend, you can even come and have a look if you want.... pm me if interested... my engine blew the oil pump and sprayed metal fragments all through the oil....

ive talked to phile from skyline perfromance he has just done two r32 gtr's in succession and he can do it in about 4 hours now but the first wont be that fast... what id recommend is undoing everything, then undo engine mounts...then rocking the front of the engine up and the take the gearbox off then pull the motor out.... it is so bloody hard to get them out in one piece man....

it hold the bumper and fender more secure and doesnt let them rattle when you hit bumps im sure yours probably rattles but you just didnt know thats where it comes from...plus its my mums skyline so shes more picky about those types of things!!

man dont believe the stanhope government ive heard that they have basically said yeah will put the money up but stall for as long as it takes on giving land over so basically its election games o they look good to the public, however that said im dark on the liberals as well as they promised a dragway when they had power and renigged your pushing s.hit uphill trying to believe a polly.

for the love of god anyone