Fitzpatrick Speed Works

got my eagle 4340 chromoly forged h-beam rods today, they are a work of art!!! THere are a few mods that need to be done to accomodate them but they are nice and they are a better price than argo or carillos....i'll post a pic!!!! stock rod= from memory its been a while since i weighed them but i think they were 525 grams. the eagles are 590 grams or something and are rated at 130hp per rod!!!

you cannot bolt a gtr transfere case to a gtst gearbox having seen both boxes apart on a bench the cases look similar but there is alot of other differences.. the gear stacks are not interchangable ad the gears i believe are even a slightly different ratio anyway... the gtr box with transfere cas is also alot longer and is not a spline and yoke set up!!! you cant say one gearbox will handle x another will handle y it goes on other factors..yes people have had certain gearboxes do cetain outputs but you might try and the whole thing goes up!!!! also a standard gearbox in average condition starts to struggle at the levels you mentioned id be scared with a bitsa doin it.... yes there are exceptions some standard boxes handle 400kw+ at the wheels but talk to the owners they know they are on borrowed time and baby the thing...this is for r32's especially!!!

Engine/Car: 1993 R32 GTR RB26DETT Type of failure: Lost oil pressure Factors influencing the failure: r32 oil pumps are notorious for this problem, running car on dyno at 8000RPM+ didnt help either... State of tune of the engine: Mild just reeled off 292rwkw at 15psi when tragedy struck.. Mods: HKSt51, 550cc injectors, HKS ROM, 2x 928 bosch fuel pumps, trust drag cooler ect..ect.. Suspension and tyres: full bilstien adjustables and whiteline full kit, kumo 265/35/18's Oil used and service interval: service every 5000 with penziol synthetic General comments: the drive engagement on a r32 rb26 is less than half the size of the r33-r34 oil pump engagement... nissan stuffed up and it a common prblem with wear and more power for the landing to crack then throw the gears out the back of the pump and send metal shavings all through the engine.... luckily enough my dyno bloke saw the light actually turning on and shut the engine off and minimalised all damage... still goin a fullhouse rebuild though !!!!

r33's have crap diffs, they open wheel offen then go to and fro into 2 wheel slip which can be hard to cantrol and very unpredictable and quick to step out... if you find this is the case i recommend a mechanical 1.5 locked lsd she'll do exactly the same thing everytime!!!!

4340 is perhaps the highest grade high tensile steel that most machine shops can machine!!! THe japanese ones that are below 5 kgs are a totally different kettle of fish they are billet cast then machined (very expensive)... Also all you guys wanting to go below 5 kg have you thought of the effect on MAIN bearingS when doing this and not haveing the crank balanced; as you would in a rebuild.... Word of warning!! Going to light would be detramentle... free bump!!!they sound good pity i have a tripple plate!!

my old man used to work on the first skylines the s5 series.... he used to work for nissan as a mechanic and serviced a gtb regularly for a customer... he loved the car said the 6's had a longer front on them to fit the engine or something, and went pretty damn well for the times!!!

n15 pulsar will fit but you need to mod the tensioner bracket i run a 120 amp n15 pulsar on my gtr its bloody beautiful and around the same price brand new with warranty as second hand jobs i have seen!!!

BOOSTD Man you a hard man to get a hold of on the mobile!!!! I still want the powersteering stuff just trying to ring to tell you the money will be transfered soon... ill message you when it is then you can send the parts to the address i pm'd you ??????

show me top secret gold in a can???????

yeah but all your purple bits wont last and wont look as good in a few years, and an aerosol can paint job cant look as good as a properly preparred 2pak paint job.... but its cheap and achievable on the other hand!!!! Another note if you look after the gasket when you take it off and make sure it is clean and totally dry they can be reused easily!!!

oh and that gold colour you want lucky your not painting a bonnet it isnt the easiest colour to paint on and get an even finish without a spray pattern showing through... lucky your only painting small parts!!!

if your covers have no chips in the paint you could get away with a light sand with 400 then paint ect.... if they have chips you can patch primer by rubbing out the chips and spot primering them, then rub the whole lot to get rid of the edges on the primer build up, then paint.... You should primer cause it acts as a bonding agent and you will get alot more professional and smooth looking job.... Also i would rub them back cause they are cast and still fairly rough upon closer inspection!!!

its not as nessessary on inline sixes due to the natural harmony of the crank they dont vibrate as much!!!!

Okay, what you need to do is strip it back to metal... it depends on the finish but it cant hurt to get the metal a bit flatter ie sand is back with around 240 wet sand paper.... you will have to primer it first, make sure the primer you use is right for straight on metal as some arent!!! Make sure there is a good build up of primer so a good 2-3 coats... You then need to wet rub the primer with 400 grit for straight colour and with 800 grit paper if you intend to use a metallic... Make sure you dont rub through anywhere, if you do you will need to re-primer.. Then prepsol the area really well and dont get any fingerprints on it or anything else then paint it.... If you need any advice on the rest of the process let me know... You wont need any special paints or ect automotive paint will stand up to 140 degrees or so and be fine!!! It is a mammouth task to get the plenum off a gtr while the engine is in the car, do a search on my name and plenum removal and there is a thread where i did it on my r32 while in the car its a tough job but can be done.... the cam covers are pretty straight foword!!!! Hope this is a help!!! Daniel

out of interest and after opinions, im thinking of perhaps 272 degree cams with 10.2mm lift for my rb30/ 26 combo.... Normally i wouldnt consider this as on a rb26 i wouldnt go bigger than a 264 unless the thing is going to be reved beyond 9k.. Why? becuase shorter duration high lift cams give a greater torque spread and better average power resulting in a faster car.... However due to it being a 3 litre i thought i might get away with 272 due to overlap not being as big an issue on a larger capacity engine???? But is 272 too big due the fact the r30 will only be reving to 7.5k???? I want a good flat power curve and i know there are other considerations in the equation for that but what are some thoughts!!!!

skypy12 is that your car if it is can you send me pics or and address where i can look it up looks phat!!! thanks sorry to hijack

ive done 2 conversions on silvias i cant imagine a skyline is much different and they are great you cant even tell if the jobs done right.... A few things make sure the fork slave cylinder is matched to the clutch slave cylinder... what i mean by this if the they say 15/16 both should be the same the other it could be is 3/4 but thats more on sr20 silvias!!! Also im unsure but some clutch arrangement use proportioning valves like i said im unsure if r33's do but r32's gtr's do!!! If a r33 pedal box was used then there should be no other dramas... oh also make sure if they got a tailshaft made it fits in really weel cause ametures usually mis measures tailshafts when getting them made!!!!! Dont try to hunt down the auto computer its better left all in there and connected... on the silvias i just open circuted the wires that are for drive so theres no lights comming on and such!!! Hopes this helps jay!!!

is the boot charcoal metalic or gray as described??? Also do you have the metal lining that goes around the rear windo its a three piece metal strip thing???? PM me your mobile and i can have a chat about some stuff and prices!!!

Word to Gojira i was goin to say the exact same thing hahha it is so true!!! You pay big now or you pay big down the track ask yourself why the car is so much cheaper especially if its cheaper from auction!!!! believe or not the japs do know a good car when they see one and this will put more biders in the seats and push the price up... Sh!t when i bought my R the going rate for a very very cheap one was 40K so all consider yourself lucky if 35,000-40,000 is the top of the price range!!!

Darrin if you get them polished you can clear anodise them then they will never stain or go dull and its pretty cheap..... chrome by its properties never adheres to alloy that fantastic so im not suprised if they are alloy like you are all saying that this is happening.... plus it is probably crap chrome and crap preperation again if you wanted a really good chrome job on your pipes you would be paying 400-500 just for the chroming, so you are getting what you paid for.... a $100 chrome will be sh!t, and not last.

my car was running on 295rwkw for about 1.5 years not a drama only reason i didnt pump in more power was i didnt have fuel pumps and injectors up to the task!!!!

there is some relevance but point taken!!!

I think yeah to dive a street car at the track is alot more skillfull than at the drags.... But as my first post says i just dont like that people downgrade the sport when all they have done is raced a stockish street car or never raced at all at a strip that is all i meant!!! Word to geoff your 1,2,3 guide has been seen and felt so many times!!!!

Merli if you read all of my explaination instead of using a few lines to try and make me look bad or wrong you would understand alot more where a person is coming from!!! I articulated exactly what i meant but if you chose to pick apart sections of my post you have choosen to miss the real point and know you have my apoligies!!! A grain of salt mate, maybe my original comments where a little harsh (or inarticulate) but hey if you think that EVERYBODY"S opinions are fantastic, spot on first time, sound mechanical knowledge then hey good for you; cause i dont, and that was my point. Oh and i never EXPLICITY meant anything, have a look at class rules in drag racing not just street meet rules. ie if you run ss/gas for instance: do what you like to your car as long as it has opening doors, a small block and carbied they are the basic regs to be meet... It is harder to cheat with that then racing 15 other guys in a similar make or model car as in rally with lancers and so forth but yes it can be done and yes people cheat but at the end of the day you still have to race the clock and if you run the car 50 times with the cheating mods you still only have a time that yiou are trying to beat!!! My point was and always has been you are still racing the clock to better yourself!!!

ah new i would get some interesting responses!!!! Have edited with paragraphs for those people with poor vision myself included its alot easier to read when you know whats being said, that is also true for the points some of you carried out of the post!!!! 1) of course there is cheating, haha thought a few of you might like that but at the end of the day if you are seriously campaigning a drag car and you are cheating then it is still a race against the clock and human error judgement are still the main forces behind results!! My point was no one should discriminate against another motorsport untill actually have done it themselves, and just cause you have raced your skyline at a street meet doesnt mean (" oh i tried drag racing piece of p!ss"), you have given the sport all it has to offer.... But in saying that please dont think im against circut or any other form im an enthusiast of them all!!! 2) Everypersons point is valid and should be heard, but in saying this everybody's opinion should be considered with a grain of salt.... Merli do you work in IT as you seem to take particular offence haha, yes not all mechanics are that bright thats why they do service work and change gaskets, not perform r and d into engines and tune cars and so forth!!!But i value any opinion that can backed up with concrete examples and info, as im sure all of you do!!!! 3) Anyone that has had something done to their car and knows how its done good on them, i never have proffessed to making my own camshafts or casting my own block and am not in anyway trying to one-up myself on anyone else here, im not a mechanic and i dont work for a workshop...Anythin i might know about cars is learnt through reverse engineering or asking people who have done it then doing it myself, everything is learnt from someone else even the very best mechanic was probably an apprentice at one stage... mY only point is that im sick of seeing people regurgatate others info claiming it as their own and that they know the info from first hand experience!!! Whether that be doin it themselves or having someone who has done it to their own car and explain it to them!!!! Hope this clears up what i meant sorry if any toes where trod on!!!