Fitzpatrick Speed Works

heres the pic

Can anyone tell me the maker of the bar on the attached pic??? Also if they are sold in oz and other bars that are sold in oz that have a similar edgy design c-west or something, and where to get them from??? Also where do i get the headlight eyebrows???? for an r33

mate i sms you las night no reply im after the oil pump please sms me back on 0418327427.. then i can reing you and we can finalise details

ewen i can do it for sure, theres a fair bit of time invlived you buy the parts we will go from there!!! Cant be more than a coupla thousand for labor!!!hahaha

Nic (Amaru) if you need servicing stuff done man give me a call i can do the maitnance stuff for ya!!!! i got all the stuff hoist and all!!!!

Another place for northsiders is Skylines Performance..... The boys are real pro's and as the name says they specialise in skylines and have built and worked on some very tough cars, and phil has worked on and knows everything about skylines since the r30...phone number is 62550200.... But for full on engine rebuilds and the like chasing big hp, the man is jake... Jakes Performance on 6255 4545 (he doesnt do regualr service stuff)...

Thats all well and good if you have the following: A two post hoist, mine is 4 post so makes it very hard to get suspension stuff out. Its basically all the front suspension that needs to come out not just what you mentioned... Who has a 1 tonne hydraulic engine stand that the can rest the engine on a lower it out of the car not many people as they are around 2g to buy... Or alternatively how has a house or workshop they can shackle a whole engine and box off their roof and lower is using that.... And what do you do with the car then leave it sitting on a hoist for a month 2 months 3, at least i can move mine around!!! Plus the engine went straight onto an engine stand ready to be sripped, 45 minutes maybe but then once out you still have to detach all the stiuff yo left together and it alot more solid and easy to crack the bolt when they are attached to the car not just rolling on the floor!!!!! So maybe its a little easier if you own a mechanics shop and its a customers car and its not a 305 month rebuild period but for your home mechanic it generally out of reach and not feasible at all!!!!

your in canberra ring Jakes Performance, he is the autorised distibuter and tuner for microtech in canberra, his number is 6255 4545, tell him that Fitzy Jnr. told you to ring... he should be of some service....

MR33 im interested in the std oil pump PM me your phone number so i can reing you!!! Cheers daniel...

its been well over a week, i posted a set of pictures then i posted the gearbox removal, then i posted another set of pictures..... the gearbox one i have since re writen as i have a feeling it didnt work but this doesnt explain the missing picture posts????

ill mod i dont have a problem im not of those ppl that whinges than does nothing to sort the problem... dunc mate sorry, i know theres probably alot of stuff to sort through... Im on skylines at least once or twice a day i would be gald to help, i will be dilagent and ferocious on those not following guidelines...here ends the speil...

sure do mate, with a timning light, i think that the rb20 is set at 20 deg i know the rb25 is 15 and the rb26 is 20 deg, someone here im sure can give you a solid answer!!!

is there an earth to the cradle that holds the coils thats also earths to the head, make sure thats there and try using the earth off the engine before using the body.... check your plugs casue if they are iridiums or anything the foul up easily and once they have been drowned ie sitting there trying to start the car they will be rooted for life they are a waste of money get some stockies and gap them down to .8mm....

sure mate might be a few days but im onto it!!!

you cant but often the novice thinks that if the cas has gone back in the same spot thats close enough!! It often is close but you still must reset it every time!!!

Side note if i havent mentioned stuff like disconnect your battery and stuff its cause its straight foword and if your attempting this you should have enough knowledge for simple things of this nature.. 7-9th hours: Next i worked on the front of the engine which isnt actually nessassary to getting the engine out but a few things help making the job easier.. Took of the fan pretty straight foword, i replaced the studs that nissan use on their water pumps with bolt with spring washers much easier if you need to do it often!!! Off comes the harmonic balancer using a rattle gun i think the socket is 24mm or 28mm cant remember, these can be really tight i suggest spraying some wd40 a good day and at random intervals before you get here as it will help... then i used a harmonic balancer puller kit (these can be had from repco or similar) and off she came... mine was easy its been off a few times but they can be god awful tight, whatever you do dont lever against your engine as you probs lever against the oil pump not cool if you want to keep it... I also sprayed wd on the cam gear thats behind the balancer, if you want to get this off start spraying your wd well in advance!!!! Now the shield that covers the front of the engine can come off, and you can access the water pump, if this needs doing this is all that needs to be off the engine plus some steps from my previous posts!!! 10-14 hours: Geez im slow, but check twice do once!!! Next is gearbox... first undo the engine mount bolt in the engine bay, this will require the alternator to be removed it bolt from the front but you will need to get underneath to undo the power cable and the plug in from th loom, this will give clear access to mounts!!! which in turn will allow more leveridge later down the track!!! remove oil filter for more room but remember to put back on before lifting the engine out later otherwise more fun leeks...Next go underneath and remove the slave cylinder from the box and tie it up with wire to something so you dont hit your head on it every 5 minutes...then undo your rear driveshaft bolt, you will need a breaker bar or long handle to get a good snap action on these bolts otherwise you will be just moving the car around.... also while your at the back undo the transfere case oil feed line and have something like an old paint brush end, or something tapered to jam in the line otherwise she will leek oil till empty... Next you will have to undo your front drive shaft from the front diff, these can be a little tricky also i suggest a single hex socket to minimise the chance of stripping the nuts!!! Okay the fun starts now, lets go the starter moter there are only two bolts, before starting unplug it and the wiring plug get it undone if you can also... i wiggled mine out the bottom with the front shaft gone it can be done it just needs some funky angles!!! Okay around to the inside of the car and something that is forgoten is remove the gear stick!!! Once youve cleared everything and can see where the stcik goes into the box you will notice, just inside the round hole at the top of the box there a clip, to get this you can use needle nose plyers or the the needle noses with the pin points on th end are ment for the jobs, squeeze the clip together and pull the stick out.... back underneath start undoing the gearbox bolts, these are often very tight...the on on the left at the top can be accessed from the top of the engine bay the right hand cannot but i didnt find it to hard just dont leave it till last leave a nice easy one till last... Removing is hard, i suggest 3 people its bloody messy with only two, also side note if you can get you rear tailshft completely off and out of the car makes it easier and less tight when moving the box back.... i used a floor jack with 4x2 on it to take some wieght off the front, again messy..... cause you have the engine mounts undone you can lever the box down at the back alot.... i had to get pretty physicall on mine to get it off the input shaft i had the crow bar out wedging it between the box and engine, then when it comes off my god is it heavy, you will wish it was back on that bloody shaft youve been working it off for the last 30mins.....dont worry if you damage your sandwhich plate they flaten out easily..... now if your interested this is now how to do your clutch its all right there!!!! For the others following the process getting the engine out, another post very soon!!!

prank man sorry if you feel i was goin off i know your hands are pretty full, there are two other mods in there, my only suggestion is they let people post then move or delete once the post is up as nessasary, if its garbage delete, if its appropriate leave it goin, but there can be no whoring in there, like getting side tracked within specific threads.... if you do need a hand i am keen to look after that section if more help is needed... i dont just wnat to whinge im willing to do what it takes to fix the problems... cheers, daniel.

STYLINE what the **** does that post prove mate, good price fellas, if i didnt have one id get one... BUMP for you...

my question goes un answered??????

im trying to do a tut in there to help out other people and three of my post havent been put up in about a week at least... It makes me over it why spend my time writing out a detailed thread then it never shows up on the screen... i understand you want to moderate it but there must be a better way, its all very dis heartening i dont really want to finish my thread but i guess i should re write 3 long posts and try again...im also sick of the garbage thats in there, cutting down a gear stick dont post asking how to do it post if youve done and your telling others how its done, theres plenty of other spots for questions!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :bs!: cant you guyds moderate and delete if in appropriate instead of moderating and obviously loseing or being to lazy to allow the post up on the board.. Sorry for the rant but i spent time and effort to help others and feel shut down...

i have never seen a 400r for sale in auction and i have been keeping a close eye on things for numerous years also prestige has never seen any... also there are varying conflicts on how many there where made and apperently the original purchase price was rumored at arond 12 million yen... so i couldnt see the sale price now being much less than 100,ooo AUD...

make sure you reset your base timing in between changing cam degrees, often forgoten about but very important!!

oh and the difference is the n1 pumps have a higher spring rate resulting in a higher oil pressure, good if your running oil cooler ect which the n1 did!!!

do you have the box with the part number so i can varify that this is an n1 pump if it is you have a buyer pm me the number if you have it!!!

some rb30 bend rods at 500hp some go to 700hp, its sometimes not a totally reliable thing.... one bloke tells you no alot of them bend rods especially if that 500hp is made using a higher comp ratio than another says its got nothing to do with anything they will see 700hp..... personally it is a waste of money preping stock rods as this will cost 400-500, why the hell not go better rods??? oh and you should still adhere to the 7500 rpm even with good rods!!!