Fitzpatrick Speed Works

i have kept an eye on this thread and are probably goin to get flamed for this post but hey it happens...... Half the people here a drag bashing, "oh drag racing is only pointing your car in a straight line and getting on the gas", " a track much better tests a cars abilities" this is utter B.S!!!! Most of you saying this have draged your own car at a strip, yeah???, or never campaigned a dedicated drag car????? NO, and i hear it nearly everyday at work i didnt need to hear it here!!! drag racing is just as credible as any other form of motorsport... Its about the only form of motorsports where there is no cheating... as you cant cheat a clock!!!! Everyform of circut racing i have seen or been involved in there are blokes cheating.. Group N rally blokes running group A stuff hoping the scutneers dont see it, pendix J blokes running strokers again hoping the cams official doesnt check the seal tag!!! Before baggin drag racing do it yourself, its a little different from racing from the traffic lights and its alot more skillfull than alot of you guys are giving it credit for.... Secondly i noticed a post earlier saying " its due to the import scene bringin in people that have little to no mechanical knowledge" thats not quite right but you get the idea!!!! 80% of all people here dont have a clue they only think they do!!!! To many times have i come across people that talk like they work on GTR's day in day out then meet them in real life and the are in IT or something it gets me so cut cause they go around giving advise when they no SH!T ALL!!!!! Like i said 80% of all people on forums only know what they have read and have never put their words into practice or could even do it, they just regurgatate to others what they have read!!! In reality theres a very select few even on skylines with 8000 members that opinions and mechanical knowledge should be considered as sound or even close to whats correct, these are people who have done stuff like rebuilt engines, gearbox's, tuned computers ect the truly technical stuff...so please dont say stuff like others dont have a clue when its happening right here,, probably 95% of all people registered here had no prior mechanical involvement with cars till they got there skylines got on here read someone elses experienced knowledge than did a mod themselves, thats fine but then read some more on another topic and now thinks they are an authority on all things mechanical!!!! END RANT HERE Sorry it was off the threads topic i just been sitting on this awhile it seemed an oppertune time to let it out!!!

mate i will give you 130 for the power steer pump and resevior!!!

i will take the power steering pump and resevoir!! That is if you get the car

tilbrook are selling ones now and they are damn sexy, i dont know how successfull they are but give them a ring to find out details sorry dont have a number but i think they have a website!!!!

dude i know its a dick around but organise some debt collectors in sydney to pay him some visits in pz they only charge a 3% commission on recovery so its worth your while!!! Also remember to add +61 to the local numbers mentioned in this thread as you are calling from overseas oh and drop that 02 and just use 2!!! Im sure some debt collectors have a website, get on there give them all the details you have....Hope this helps!!!!

think abou oil pressure around and above 4bar pressure!!!! when do you see a restriction of boost on the stock intercooler around 1 bar... so in a word it would be RUBBISH and would probably blow apart!!!!

i will pay 70 for the pump and 30 for the resevoir.... it mite seem low but keep in mind i have to rebuild the pump for piece of mind!!!!

try this pic instead!!!!

heres a rough pic of what the spacer/girdle has to look like to adapt the rb30 block to the rb26 sump (sorry for the crudness of the picture had to be made small and rough to fit).. PRIMO as gary mentioned the crank girdle has nothing to do with the conversion exept the rb26 one has the windage tray as part of the girdle and the rb30 has it in the sump you can either tap holes and fit it to the rb30 girdle or as im doing use the rb26 girdle and get the block and girdle squared and line honed!!!

nah pretty easy and straight foward just crc/ wd 40 the bolts that go through the floor on the tank straps a coupla hours before can be real tight and when putting back in make sure your float thing is in the right position on the scale and not jammed outside otherwise no fule tank reading!!

no the r32 has a twin pump i need a single stage pump and the smaler resevior

rob from RIPS is a nice enough guy but what he charges for the work he does its bloody highway robbery... he want 3,400+ shipping for a rb30 converted to take a 4wd sump??????? then wont tell you what your getting done for your money???? WTF Plus he said that would be standard internal put new bearings???? again WTF PRIMO check back a few pages the issues of the 4wd system on the rb30 have been discussed there, if you are keen to hold off a few months i am doing all the work required to make this work and will gladley tell you step by step what it takes to make this work its not really that hard as long as you have a good machinist shop you can talk to and access to some cluey engine builder!!!

As the title says im after a power steering pump and the resevoir, doesnt matter if its off a non turbo either!!! Thanks

do you have a power steering pump

okay third and final part then let the questions role guys!!!! 14-16hr: Righto next stop steering and suspension, and driveshafts....the left hand side no suspension has to be touched just undo the drive hub from the engine... righ hand side is a little more involved.. Take your wheel off so jack up that corner of the car and undo the following.... the tierod arm coming out of the rack, the lower ball join the radius rod that join to the lower ball joint and the lower control arm, and the sway bar and the little thing that is with the sway arm..... lower ball joints need to be smacked with a hammer to crack them dont be affraid just whack the beefy steel bit above it and bang they will undo.... undo the shocke from the top and bottom... now your sweet to swing the rotor upwards and away iundo the cv boots from the driveshaft to the engine and slide the drive shaft out....this is a very dirty bastard job... just lightly put everything back in as you will have to reverse the process later.... engine is free and we are cookin" 16-17hr: Right we have the gear box removed we have everything you can possibly see might stop the engine coming out removed including air lines and such... From underneath you can see two heater hoses going under the plenum leave these attached untill you raise the engine a littel they are bloody hard to get off.... First get a big flat head screw driver or crow bar and crack the engine mounts as they are rubber they bond much like rubber hoses so you need the wedge something to crack them off the surface... Next attach your strap personally i like nylon straps than chains polus they dont rip sh.it out of your rocker covers and dent them like a chain can.... i attached one at the back of the head there is a bracket there i took this off and put a 80mm long bolt on with a really big washer this stop the strap coming off the end of the bolt (NOT GOOD).. An at the fron there is a bracket in fron the the 1st injector its nice and beef, i use 2 45mm ling bolts again with big washers (oh and make sure you screw them in as far as possible or in the case of the 2 together at the front do the nut up a fair way).... get you engine stand attach and jack.... if you are like me mine wouldnt quite go high enough to get the engine over the radiator support cause we didnt have the snatch strap short enough so make sure its really short (see dodgy pic of me and the old boy balancing the engine on some 4x2 on a floor jack shortening straps). And your engine is removed i put mine on a engine stand but if you do this make sures its bloody sturdy as these engines arent light.... I hope this can help some of you in the future and feel free to ask questions... I will be doing a dummy guide to engine rebuilds and also a guide to converting a rb30 block to suit 4wd drive soon.... oh and pics up soon sorry bout that

mate with the gtr you can use the n15 pulsar alternator just get the 100-120amp job, and you have to extend your bracket that lets you put tension on the belt... its a little bit off work but at 160 as compared to the gtr one at 430 from nissan i reckon its a sweet deal i can pm you exactly how to do it if your interested... let me know, hope this helps!!!

bump

i have done my gtr twice, a mates gtr, vl's and im doing my mums r33 gts-t in a month....

nengun sell nismo oil pumps at very reasonable prices around one thousand and greenline i believe have jun ones for 1800... honestly unless you want over 800-900 hp the nismo and jun are a waste of money.... Doughboy on these forums has a r33 n1 pump for sale in the business section for 500.. hope this helps you out!!!

is this the one that was on ebay recently... if it is i bidded but its fair out of my price range!!!

as title says im after a tripple plate for my r32 gtr... has to be in good condition ie. more than 60% life left in clutch!!!

thanks boys champs any luck on the eyebrow things and where to get them

oh and its not for me so no comments on its appearence!!!!????