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That's a great price - and 100,000kms isn't too bad considering it's age.. Bit of wear and tear.. but eh.. would be great to have for $24,000..

Check that you wired it up correctly.. You should def feel a difference between 5psi and 8psi..

Check what it's currently running with an aftermarket boost gauge.. mine runs 0.66Bar (8psi) stock.. after putting on a bleed valve - it spikes to ~0.7ish (9/10psi).. anyways - yeah - check what it's really doing - than decide.. also depends on how you drive.. if you constantly drive around on boost of course your going to increase the risk of something happening..

go into the DIY section - it's on page 3 or 4 or something like that..

Keiichi Tsuchiya is well known for his technique that he used to drift GT-R's when racing them, to the point where he what launch them into a small drift to overtake other drivers allowing him to take a completely different racing line.. anyways - moral of my paragraph is - GT-R's can drift, have drifted.. and all can run in 2wd mode (at the pull of a fuse) i do believe

Your missing some important points.. e.g. - Year, price, KM's..

WTF - 7 Jul 2004, 03:26 PM 18month old thread lol.. amusing to see them dug up..

I'm heading up there tomorrow.. was wondering if people think I should remove the headlight before I go up.. or after I go up???.. is it hard to remove it.. what's the process - there is a screw through the chassis, the one on top of the chassis, one through the top of the front bar.. is that it? just unplug the globes and pull everything out?? Cheers Links

Very cool newkleer.. awesome work - can't wait for a finished one.. should be able to mount it in the single din - or glovebox.. or wherever.. any chance TPS will be displayed as a %.. would be great to be able to cycle through display modes..

I've rung a plastic welding place in Narrabeen - they are quoting about $130 to fix by plastic welding.. Oh and for anyone intersted - it's $565.60 + tax for a new headlight to be imported.. OUCH!!!

$600 each.. wtf.. well - I guess thats sorted that out - where is the best place to get them plastic welded..

Afternoon people - i'm after some suggestions for tracking down a drivers side R33 SII headlight.. When I purchased the car - it appears that the top mount has been broken on the headlight and has been epoxyed to fix it - this appears to have failed again which is causing my headlight to be about 2 degrees down and sit with a 5mm gap between the bonnet and the light.. Now I have 2 options.. 1 - buy a new headlight - in this case I need to find where I can get them - I do believe they are about $600/$700 a pair from nissan.. (ouch) or 2. - remove the headlight and fix the broken mount - either with some epoxy - or if anyone has any other suggestions - i'm open.. i'll hopefully get a photo up tonight of it.. anyone have any idea what the best way to attach plastic back to plastic is? as some people may know - my cardboard doesn't look the best supporting the light from rubbing on the front bar - time for me to fix it.. Cheers Links

i'll be there - feel free to add me.. goto get my oil changed by than..

Awesome!!.. can't wait for more photos.. plus some video!!..

Your doing it too easy for them .. oh well..

https://www.google.com/accounts/SmsMailSignup1 there you go.. how easy was that..

you can sign up for them on the gmail site.. i've got a couple of hundred of them..

Main reason being - the shift in the driveline can make the car very unstable in the corner due to a sudden change in forces on the car.. e.g. don't do it.. or do it at low speed.. anyways - as for the clutch.. hmm.. although you can let it slip a bit - don't ride it.. e.g. rev highly while not fully engaging it/disengaging it.. you will eventually burn it out.. also - you shouldn't leave your foot on it while your driving in gear - there is a foot rest for that purpose..

Lookin damn hot.. welcome to the club..

Awesome - cheers Razor - got it off last night - the bracket that's on the inside of the door that the little cup bits sits in was loose on 1 of the bolts and was rattling.. fixed it up - and also the gromets that the stereo guy managed to f**k up fixing and it's all good!!!.. there is 1 big clip right in the middle of that piece - hard fcuker to get as well.. anyways - cheers for the help..

kwikfix look alright - only seems to be one guy in "sydney metro" which sux.. here is the link for "touch up guys" http://www.touchupguys.com.au/

in regards to that car - go and drive it - find a couple of others to drive on the same day - that way you've got something to compare against.. as for "depreciating".. well - yeah I guess they are - but it's all relevant.. what condition it's in.. what year it is.. how many km's..

try.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=94069 it's about 2 cm's above your topic.. there is a guide to installing an R33 stereo in there.. including what you need.. http://r33stereo.groovesystems.net/ - direct link for you.. excellant guide - and probably everything you need to know..

Maybe it's a SII with a S1.5 grill fitted.. the "SIII" R33 on that site doesn't have Xenon lights.. mine was one of the ones made in 1998 - and haven't seen any others with xenons..

dude.. MYC-R32 2 Aug 2004, 03:03 AM wettyres Today, 12:32 AM Please.. people digging up old topics.. anyways.. interesting I guess..