T04GTR

within 1-2 months would be expected. longer if a 1 off.

dont forget people who dont check oil and water and /or cook them and wonder what all went wrong... i have heard all to often motors blowing up at the track from overheating and low oil leval/or oil surge related failures.... you can build the best motor in the world, but unless its got water or oil it wont last 10 laps..

as for your gears waring out, have you got a pump and cooler set up? hollinger use an internal pump with a paper filter to stop all the bits waring out the gears...

link on the liberty? i know jerico or it might be liberty do a full on drag box, but i didnt notice the synchro one..

your "grex" stuff is off the shelf alcon. i had the same, but the discs for the front are around 660 each. pwr are the aussie distributers. you need to mesure the pcd of the 10 bolts to the hat. but being 10 bolt, its more of a brembo setup. there may be a part number on the outside diameter disc.

drain your oil into a clean container and sit it in the sun. you will be able to see if there is any bearing material in it. if so, $60 worth of oil and $80 worth of new bigends is cheaper than a new bottom end.... better to be safe than sory.

if in doubt just run a wire to earth it. to eliminate any chance..

with regards to the 30/70 or 50/50. it is not done that way. gtr sends a pre determined amount of torque to the front. ie the transfer case is set up to deliver up to 50kg/m torque. it pumps up the system with pressure and a very sensitive pressure valve. as the torque is transferd, it heats up. the system then dumps off pressure to the same it had in the begining. you could do it manualy with some sort of pressure regulater to stop the pressure building up. you could set up your ecu to turn on the pump in a form of traction control if it senses slip. or you could have it set up to throttle... the hardest bit would be to modulate the pump fast enough to vary the torque output. the standard gtr pump assembly has a pump,accumulator,dump valve and a pressure sensor. the rest is tps input, rpm, speed(from speedo) fore and aft g sensor and steering angle with 4 wheel speed sensors. it would be easier to adapt all the hardware from a gtr into yor car.

sounds like a pain in the ass. id be abit woried for a track car having alterd the roll center down with the subframe.

yes. you need to grab a wiring digram and splice the attessa tps signal wire directly to the tps input to the ecu. if you have an auto z32 ecu it will have the output. but they can drop out. apexi pfc can do this to.

if they are not f**ked. when you get them, get a m4 bolt and screw it in the oil inlet. with pliers pull out the restrictor/bearing locator and clean it out. also carby clean the turbo through the oil inlet. then bang the locator back in. then you are sure not to have a failure due to burnt oil blocking up the internals. (99%) of bb failures

the generic for xf style idle motor is a good unit. simple 2 wire device.

12 volt ones no good?

yeah no.. a 12volt one like this: lube heater or: filter heater

yeah, same.. but the n1 pump or and oe material pumps arnt "as" imune to plonker rev limiting damage..

besides, the tensioner is there to take the slack .......

cheers for that. massive help

posts to sydney?

i can vouch for them. they are very good. i had one dated back to 1997. let it go dead flat. not it wont take a charge. 13 years from any battery is good i think !

rda ones are the cheapest. made in same factory as dba im told. so metal wise just as good. (or shit for that matter)

TRY THIS WHEEL OFFSET COMPARISON CALC

yes, higher comp pistons are the only real option.

cant you buy poncams for a rb20?

the nitto ones rattle abit but ive heard.

agreed. but.. since the 26 has a larger head cc than 25,, you might be there anyway..