T04GTR

lol

it will go pretty hard. very common trick for closer gearing. but yeah 3500rpm in 5th at 100k

easiest rout if you are sure its a 4.375 or gts-4 diff is to put the rear gts-4 diff in. but yo have to swap over your lsd as the gts one is a viscouse one.

ps.. v8 supercars and alot of other built race cars only run around 4.5-5degrees.

yes you can it makes the car very unstable mid corner. basicly just a prick to drive fast. i pulled mine back to 7 degrees. (was 8.5-9) much better now

only iff they dont start pissing out oil out the adjuster. soooooo leaky. if they last 6 months id be very suprised. if you happen to have ones that arnt leaking they work quite well. your springs are binding or its hitting the bumpstops.

sounds good!! yes the alloy sump is the only way. not only for reliability but thats all that bolts up im pretty sure. and being the smartass that i am. its better to do it PROPERLY THE FIRST TIME than pay for 2 rb26's

really depends what you want. smc is 1900 sm4 is 2350. worth the extra money i think. i personaly have a smc. and have had for well.. about 5 years now. it hasnt missed a beat. its been rained on,welded unprotected,had smoke come out of it(my fault) and still going strong. so robust its just not funny. ony drawback on smc is limited options for crank triggering and axillary outputs.you also have to choose hi or low curent injector drivers. i have the autotune feature and a wideband. but i leave that to my tuner. it takes around 30 mins to map the fuel from scratch and its dead acurate. futher to its reliability is being able to clock up 240000km (120k over 300rwkw) on a standard r32 gtr enging. i ended up changing it just cos i was bored with it.. no detonation at all. summing up its a very good ecu, very easy to use and tune. so for a tune dont expect more than $450 not 1k on a pos power fc with airflow meters that f**k out etc etc.

when its playing up. unplug the airflow meter and see if there is any change. sounds like afm or the plug to it. does it backfire thru the intake?

wich is why subaru dont use anymore.

apart from the fact that they are no longer a "big company" id steer clear. they still come out to repair/replace the units but.

thats the gayest thing ive seen all week. that would be a kunt to make

ps.. if money is an issue the WTF are yopu doing putting a 26 in your car for..

have ya looked at what bolts the sump to the enging buddy? it aint no m6 bolts dude and you will notice the BLANKED OFF oil pick up in the block. (corect me if im wrong,there are tapped hols but thats it yes?) USE A GTR SUMP WITH NO DIFF and ps.. hi energy sump is shit and fowls on the swaybar

should only do it in the morning or iff its sitting for a while. perfectly normal so dont wory

how many kays on the clutch? is it a damperd one? cheers

just like the bmw driver that got out of his car and tried to have a go at me this morning at the end of the m2. f**kwit.

yeah. most shops do that job for 300 around now if you suply parts. yeah 27mm 180mn tight. and if your lucky you can get it off with screwdrivers.

ok.. until gary comes in, heres what worked for me. but also playing with alignment settings to get you car to handle is not the right way to go about starting a good set up. 0 on the front and 0 on the rear will give neutral handling on a set up car. you need to start here and find out what your car is doing. understeering,oversteering,pushing etc etc. the rear is much les sensative to toe. as all the bushes and shit move around and its al over the shop all the time when your up it.. as far as the front goes. with out changing springs and swaybars and bump steer etc etc to make it neutral. if it understeers you need to toe out. if it over steers you need to toe it to 0 and toe the rear in. if it turns in well but then pushes you need to reduce the rear grip by toeing it in. if it is unstable and unpredictable you probably have to much caster. you never want a toe in on the front. and try to get away with the smalest caster you can. usually its happy at around 7 positive. basicly you can go past the pont of where adding toe on the front stops working. some race cars use up to 8mm each side!!! because they cant or wont play with the suspension settings. but if you ask me thats just retarded.

yes. they leak almost as much as konis. yeah unfortunatly you need to find the authorised ohlins dealer in aus

also.. im not that clued up on this sort of thing but.. my head unit only puts out 2.2v preout. and to get any sort of decant volume i have to have the gain on the amps turned up the whole way. ie:down to the 500mv scale. now is this a bad idea for sound quality, is this likly to make the amp clip more? will i be able to get more volume and better sound out of a propper headunit that puts out say 4v preout? (i dont use the headunit amp)

yeah its sweet. just two dodgy ones in a row. 3rd time lucky hey

i had a similar problem with a customers car. check the cig lighter light. just unplug it (the light) and check if it stops blowing the fuse.

those rods dont look like there 4.7 inches long eheh

nice choise on the sm4 autistic ftw!! ps.. with your rods check that the piston pin slide freely in the little end bush. ive had some to tight before.