Kinks

Hmm interesting. I would have thought a MAP sensor would be better but I guess if a hose pops off the MAF sensor method will still stop the turbo from overspinning.. I guess it follows then that if you increase airflow (intake exhaust and head/cam work) then the stock ECU will stop the fun at lower boost levels because you've got more flow. So the 'boost cut' will be limiting your total power output rather than boost per se...

If you break an axle with an open diff, I assume the broken side will always turn and you'll be pretty much stranded. With a locker, both sides will still turn and I'd say if you give it any throttle you'll be spinning one wheel like crazy. But I really wouldn't know! Jay, interesting.. I wouldn't mind a diff that is more like an LSD but doesn't wear out. Previous owner gave the LSD centre to me and said "once you've driven the car a bit i doubt you'll put the LSD back in".. well he's right but tight corners are pretty harsh...

Jay, interested in specifics on your diff.. it sounds like it suits daily driving as well as enthusiastic driving..

Skylines certainly do have a MAP sensor, it's used to provide the fuel cut if you overboost the motor. The AFM is used for fuelling though. Sometimes the turbo can't flow the extra boost at high rpm. When you crank it up and hit boost cut, is it still holding the higher boost near redline? Or did you only test at ~3k RPM... my turbo will hit 15psi in the midrange but drops back to 10-11psi by redline, using a bleed valve.

It's not the clutch, it's not the injectors it's coming from the front of the motor. Took it to a mech who agreed and said it could be the cam belt, could be the idler bearing. Also had someone else suggest water pump. But it is a belt/bearing noise IMO. Either way it doesn't look like it's possible to diagnose without pulling everything apart, and that won't happen before christmas...

well if nobody's around, i'd have a good scratch without feeling guilty about it...

I have no clue how to drift yet but I'm sure I'll have completed stage 2 with aaron by then so i'm interested. Can't confirm anything at this stage though

:bahaha: so that's why my induction noise is so loud

Bugger! Sucks to have a nice paint job.

I'm out guys.. Don't really want to take a trek out to EC with a noisy timing belt. Maybe it'll be fine (I took it for an italian tuneup this afternoon in frustration) but then again maybe it won't. Need to get it checked out to make sure I won't suddenly become very poor Might come spectate in the pulsar, see what happens..

I'm out guys.. Don't really want to take a trek out to EC with a noisy timing belt. Maybe it'll be fine (I took it for an italian tuneup this afternoon in frustration) but then again maybe it won't. Need to get it checked out to make sure I won't suddenly become very poor Might come spectate in the pulsar, see what happens..

Ah cool. I had a feeling they did something like that but didn't want to assume so. I guess the question is what the actual differences are between the normal pump, N1, and the aftermarket ones. Stock pump with a higher pressure rating doesn't sound brilliant, but then Nissan do have quite a decent safety margin in their engineering. I would have thought that a more powerful oil pump (eg JUN) would also need increased sump capacity (not just baffles) to keep it well fed. After all the more oil you pump into the engine the less you have in the sump - the gallery restrictors reduce the problem a fair bit though I'm sure. Some more googling: http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic311.htm GTR2.7L's running a 500HP motor using an N1 pump http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/arch...ic/28255-1.html claims N1 volume figure is 20-30% above stock, which is pretty much the same gain as the JUN figures you quoted in the first post. One of the tuning shop pumps would probably be better but don't discount the N1 unless it looks like it can't do the job for your power level

Good link.. so if you plan to run 13k RPM you need a JUN pump, merli. But otherwise.. "NB: Any pump has an efficency range, so not only is the rev ceiling important, but also note that the lower watermark point - below the effective range of said pump, you may also have cavitation and surge issues occur. Therefore, in some cases, (such as GTR-700's) you would need to ensure that idle is high enough to ensure you won't have low end flow problems." so don't overengineer things too much note that tyndago had the N1 pump and destroyed his motor while pushing hard, but he also had the standard baffling. A JUN pump wouldn't mean shit in this case, because pressure/flow is irrelevant when you're sucking in air

Those stickers aren't cheap to produce you know What purpose does the gallery restrictor fulfill? I'm also not familiar with the level of modification you're doing, but I assume you'd have to be chasing serious power to need an oil pump that costs 2-3 times as much. google = http://forums.skylinesdownunder.co.nz/arch...ic/29548-1.html this guy used the N1 pump, if it helps.

Haha yes you did see me in a 31.. still have the pulsar, but it's the backup / sister's car... I was napping a bit waiting for a gap in the traffic, didn't realise it was you until you were already swinging past. Cheers B-Man..

how can you have quicker gear changes and lag? The only time a vent to air BOV should cause richness is during gear changes, because that's when the BOV is supposed to open. If it's open all the time you're on boost the BOV is not tight enough!

Good move Duncan. I think it's just easier to earn more money than to fart around trying to do stuff yourself (I'm doing the latter atm!). "Learning experience" or some shit. Yeah, once I've learnt I'll just pay someone else to do it in future

lol @ knight rider mod.. gold

haha.. no it's definitely not the turbo, that makes a whooshing noise see: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=29584

Fingers crossed I get my car issues sorted out before the weekend.. rear caliper sticking on and strange whirring noises in the engine bay

Had a strange noise start to show itself.. at idle I get a pronounced whirring noise which sounds like it's coming from the top of my engine. Seems loudest above the cam covers and only does it at idle, at higher RPM it goes quiet. Also only happens when the engine is up to temp, I think. Will have to check next cold start. It definitely seems to be loudest above the engine, rather than at the front.. so I wouldn't think it would be any of the external belts (alternator etc). The engine's done 118k and the timing belt was done at 100k by the prev owner. Any ideas? I'll try and grab some hose and do a bit of listening to see where it's coming from but I should probably take it to someone to find out what's going on. Suggestions would be helpful

bought 89 R31 silo with RB20DET

nulon is the only one that actually works.. http://www.angelfire.com/mb/southo/Octane.html or http://www.fbody.com/members/stevenmh/Fire...ane_booster.htm or http://members.rennlist.org/951_racerx/Oct...Comparison.html (I think they all quote the same test results). Toluene is way too much hassle IMO.

Uhh skylines are like arseholes, I mean even I've got one. who cares who spotted what any more? *dons flame suit*

you can delete your own posts... click on "edit" and then there is an option to remove it. *slap*