Imtorqing

What breakages have you had ? (I know there is probably a list). Just gives an insight to what happens when you want to achieve the top tier of drag racing for us commoners to understand lol . I take it you are stripping the motor after every meet to check everything is alright.

I've got Ku36's on the front in 255 wide and they are an awesome tyre don't get me wrong, as with my strut braces and HKS coilovers...I throw mine around corners all day everyday(almost daily but not in wet lol) and I can't fault them. Even in the wet they have been fine but......Mine were perfect noise wise at first(Only done about 5000k's if that) and now I have road noise like a 4x4 from about 40k's which is starting to sh%t me. I had a four wheel alignment and balance when I had them fitted and everything is meant to be spot on... Has anyone had any problems with Ku36's making tyre noise. I was going to get KU36 275's on the back but don't know now.

Yeah mate, looking for 1400 or nearabouts for the box and then will sell the clutch seperately. The box will come with sandwhich plate, flywheel and slave cylinder etc. I will be retaining the tailshaft. Cheers Will

Hey guy's, As per title for sale R33 GTST box with Osgiken Twin plate for sale as I am setting my car up for drag racing and as such building a strong auto. The gearbox and clutch is still in the car and as a result you can go for a drive with me to show that it ; A Doesn't slip (currently have 450rwhp previously had 580rwhp with no problems etc) & B has no bad sounds etc and still shifts very well. When I rebuilt my engine I had the clutch out and it was still in excellent condition. The clutch is 5 years old but has not been abused as ; A I can't do a skid to save my life & B I'm too tight to pay for new tyres if I did drop skids. This is by far the best manual transmission and clutch I have ever had (NOTE*** that twin plates rattle when clutch is in). This website shows which clutch it is http://www.otomoto.com.au/osgiken/competition_twin_plate.htm It is rated at 600hp but my mechanic has the same clutch in his GTR which has over 800rwhp and his has never slipped either. I don't sell crap and I don't rip people off. Price for one of these clutches brand new are $2500. If interested PM or text Will on 0422886721

Guy's up for sale is my pride and joy which has been my daily for the past two years. Selling as need money to carry out renovations on my house (If your a qualified carpenter I'm sure we can sort something out lol). PRICE - $20,000 (not negotiable) It is a Mazda Blue R33 Series 1 (factory auto). Motor was recently rebuilt has just clocked over 4,000 run in kilometres. First tune at 101 Motorcafe has netted 455rwhp on only 15psi with a 7 grand redline. Previously made 580rwhp on 24psi tune with Competition Tuning and Performance. less than 1000 klm's to go for power tune. The car is fitted with a Haltech E11V2 Motor is a 26/30 professionally built by JHH Performance featuring ; MOTOR Oringed block ARP studs Argo Rods Wiseco Pistons Mahle Rings Stage 2 Tomei Cams Greddy Cam Gears Ported and Polished head (JHH Street Force Head) 1mm oversized exhaust valves N1 Oil Pump with crank collar upgraded valve springs All new belts BOLT ONS Greddy Fuel Rail 1000cc Sard Fuel Injectors Sard Fuel Reg Garrett 42R Turbo on Stainless Twin Pulse high mount manifold. XTR External Wastegate and features CTP boost T controller (never has overboosted) JJR Coil packs 600 x 300 x 100mm Monsta Performance Intercooler Full HKS Coilovers Both front and back strut braces Car has 18 inch rims (Think they are BJR's fitted with 255/18 KU36(semi's) front and 275/18's on back) with minor gutter rash on some. Full custom 4inch Stainless exhaust system including twin tipped XForce muffler (Is a lot quieter than it used to be). Car has custom polished surge tank in the boot and runs a single pump to the front which has handled the 24psi tune without fuel pressure problems but would suggest twin 044 upgrade if going higher with race fuel. Car has standard R33 gearbox which shifts beautifully with a OS GIKEN twin plate clutch (Hands down the best clutch I have ever had (apart from the bloody rattle they make) ABSOLUTELY no slippage ever. Since I have owned the car I had the air conditioning reinstalled(Ice Cold) including a custom fan on the condenser as the factory fan doesn't fit. NEGATIVES The car has a factory interior with some stains on the sunvisor's, roof lining and carpet although I have never tried to get it professionally cleaned as I always intended on getting a full leather interior. Centre console surround was purchased off this forum and is silver which does not match the rest of the dash facia. The dash was fitted with a EL dial cover which has small wrinkles (lights up blue at night.) All factory gauges were rewired and all work. The only problem is that the speedo drops out every now and then when you hit a bump. When you tap the dash it comes back to life. I haven't bothered getting it fixed so not sure if it is the dash, speedo drive or just wiring in the dash. The boot has no carpet which is how I bought it. I did start a boot install which I was constructing out of MDF which is on the bottom but it is naked all around. Car has a crack in the front bar which is repairable and a mark on the passenger side skirt (my panel beater was going to repair all for $500) No spare tyre (has Pioneer AMP in bay). Car currently has a 2nd hand black bonnet(has a small dent on front left) as the previous one my panel beater cut through the bonnet support for a scoop (Still have that bonnet in the garage) which made it illegal and wouldn't pass roadworthy. Anyway I don't rip people off and don't sell sh!t. My last car I sold which was also built by JHH (VL TURBO with a 25/30) is still going strong and is flogged by its owner daily(We are now best mate's). CAR has never lost any fluid of any sort over the time that I have had it and has always been regularly serviced (Currently running ELF Fluids). DO THE MATH TO BUILD THIS WILL COST A LOT MORE THAN THE ASKING PRICE. Will accept partial trade of car valued between 5 and 7g's which needs to be a four door non import. PM me or Call Will on 0422886721 to see the car and come for run. No tyre kickers or time wasters PLEASE. NOTE : Photo's are previous, current ones will be posted soon. Cheers Imtorqing (Will)

Or get an overspeed alert lol They were annoying in earlier commodores and on GPS's (A mate turned a work car's on and I was like whats that Fuc^&ing beeping)

I think you will find that speedo's are out by on average three to five kilometres not the camera's/guns. Their accurate right down to the kilometer so 81 is 81 as they use a laser and good for anywhere up to 700 plus meters. Take it to court(you still get done for 81 if u lose) or pay the fine and behave yourself on good behaviour or take the suspension. Mind you if you drive a modified car it is dicey to be on good behaviour as defects cost points. Hope it helps..

I would look at getting a good head job with larger exhaust valves atleast and that will make it come on a little quicker. My old car with a 25/30 with a 35/40 .82 made around the 445 rwhp with over 20psi in it. That was without head work though.... I would have thought that most would have gone a 30/40 which was recommended to me by Mike VINE for good low to midrange response. Will be pushing it to make that power though without a good Tuner. I know Matty Spry from PITTS with a PFC with twin Z32's pulled that power from 25/30 with a 30/40 from a mates friends car which is and has been still going strong. Was at powercruise a couple of years ago and the dyno guy couldn't believe the power he was getting out of the 30/40. Wasn't much over 20psi either. Imtorqing

He's got it right.......

Guys, Was making a DVD for my mates who I went to Powercruise with but was taking too Fuc%ing long so I decided to just post on youtube. Still got more vids to post including shotgun in my mates 26/30 (DeanoVLT) and shotgun in his mates R33/R34 gtr, dyno runs etc but it takes ages for them to upload due to the length and size. http://www.youtube.com/user/willallan77 Cheers Bill;)

Guy's For sale is my RB26/30 Combo that is getting freshly rebuilt at JHH Performance. REASON FOR SALE - Going for hardcore drag racing rebuild What you get !!!!! RB26 head with standard but polished inlet plenum, (minus Coil packs, crank angle sensor, wiring harness, Fuel Rail and Injectors). Head is fitted with HKS stage 2 cams, JHH Street Force head porting package. 1mm oversized exhaust valves to assist with Turbo spool (Was getting Boost in 1st gear with wheels spinning 1st through to 3rd with a 42R). Also has Greddy Cam Gears and standard but gated sump. Motor has only been bored 20 tho over standard. Brand new ACL bearings and is fitted with ARP head bolts. RB30 block with modified oiling for High HP applications fitted with Argo Rods and Wiseco pistons & new wiseco rings. N1 oil pump and Rb30 water pump. Motor is good for 700hp at the motor (Thats JHH's recommendation). Prior to rebuild, the motor was running 25psi and 580rwhp (running Haltech E11V2). Was tuned by CTP Motorsport (Competition Tuning and Performance) All JHH engines come with a 2000km warranty for piece of mind. Best to buy when fresh because then you know its new and how its been treated. Anyway do the math and you are saving alot of money for a package like this. I know I paid more than this for my previous 25/30 combo by the time I bought all the parts. WHERE - Logan, Brisbane CONTACT - PM me if interested. PIC'S - Forthcoming and will also post the quote sheet from JHH for this package. Cheers Bill (Imtorqing) Anyone who has dealt with me in the past will know that I dont sell crap and I dont rip people off. If you want to buy a great deal then you know where to come.

1000rwhp will put a smile on my face and would make it worth it for me as were crunching numbers and its not going to be cheap...... I love my GTST though as it's real perty.....so im torn

Yeh I was aware that the gearboxes are a weak point but I was just wondering how much ie diff's and cv's can cop before going bang. Thinking of selling my GTST and going for a GTR with a full tilt 26/30(although my current set up is good) but was wondering if there were additional costs etc. Im stuck in the position where I am rebuilding my motor and starting to think too much and its making my head hurt...... Do my full tilt motor and stick with my GTST ie then have to go strong auto or dogbox or rebuild to current spec and go buy a rolling 33 or 32 gtr and put my full tilt motor in that....... and then I worry if the GTR driveline will take the power or are there other parts I need to purchase other than a dogbox...... Not a 16yo dreamer with a pipe dream either just a 32yr old big kid who loves cars...... Cheers Imtorqing

Guys as per the topic title just wondering what is the max horsepower rating for an R33 GTR driveline.... Just doing some homework...... Cheers Imtorqing

Do you remember the wheel hitting the front windscreen of Lownde's car during Bathurst as that could have been real bad too..... That's the unfortunate thing with an open cockpit....... I will never win lotto that's for sure(My families renowned for lack of good luck) but I can assure you that I am more likely to have this happen to me... I have told my family that if I die as a result of driving my car(At speed), not to feel sorry for me as I have gone out doing something that I love which is and always has been the way I would choose for me to go rather than in a nursing home wearing a sh!tty nappy.... My condolences to his family for this tragedy as his life was just beginning............ Bill aka Imtorqing

Cars Yes Bikes No They set up the track at Qld Raceway with racing on the straits and if a hi powered car was to get out of control, well you get the rest.

I would have been there with bell's on but my motor did its bearingson the one dayer and is currently getting refreshed (Second lap which you can imagine Im happy about). Will probably be there in my mates 26/30 VL Turbo tearing it up the V8's.

I would have been there with bell's on but my motor did its bearingson the one dayer and is currently getting refreshed (Second lap which you can imagine Im happy about). Will probably be there in my mates 26/30 VL Turbo tearing it up the V8's.

Im assuming this would have been the first thing you would have checked and as noone else has mentioned it have you checked all your cooler piping. When they blow off they can make a loud bang and then no power. Other than that it sounds like it icould be a turbo matter.

Series 2 N/A block is what you need as it has the provisions for water and oil lines. Obviously he will be buying new forged internals. You will need RB30 rods and the corresponding head choice pistons. No such thing as a 4wd rb30 block although the RB30 did come out with the earlier nissan patrols. All he will need is a 4wd adapter plate which will allow the RB30 to be mated to the GTR gearbox. I wouldnt recommend using the standard rods for high HP applications but the turbo rods are good for decent power. As per above you will need RB25 or 26 pistons to top the rods. Hope this helps....... Cheers Imtorqing

Its alright mate, I UNDERSTAND.........................

With my Haltech E11V2 computer and average cold start map trust me I know to put the pedal down to get it started. The problem was that the back pump(External O44) was not priming/powering up. That was the initial symptom. Also trying any interaction with the pedal had absolutely no effect at all as it didn't even make the littlest kick. That's when I knew something was seriously wrong..... So when you go to start a car and it isn't getting fuel up front it wont start..............Hence that is why I requested the services of an auto electrician of which they could not locate any potential problems..... So I don't see any red herrings in here... I went with a logical process of elimination and the funny thing is she is now running but no-one knows why it stopped in the first place. One possibility was that the panel beaters jumped the car causing it to spike the computer.......

ANSWER WAS !!!!!!!! From all the cranking from people trying to get it to run left a fair amount of fuel in the cylinders as it wasn't being burnt up. Then obviously they would think what next and let it sit. Basically from the motor being cold the fuel would then run past my rings down past the piston and down the rods into the sump. So basically my car decided to degrease itself. As a result it wasn't lubricating itself. When we pulled out the dipstick there was almost an inch visible of fuel as obviously fuel and oil seperate. When you touched the oil it was like water. I have since dropped the oil and put in some Valvoline XLD(Cuz its cheap) and a new filter and the motor has quieted down again. I will now have to put some good oil back in it, flush the oil cooler and relocated filter assembly again to ensure that all the fuel and current oil gets the fu(k out of my engine and see how it goes. Im hoping as the car was barely run with this problem that there is very little if any damage to the bearings. Anyway I never knew this could happen although I had heard of cars hydraulic a big end. Now concentrating on getting her ready for powerplay. I hope it never happens to anyone else as it has been a week of hell. Cheers Bill OH AND YEH.....MY NOS SYSTEM WAS OVERLOADING, I TOLD IT TO SHUT UP AND SLAMMED IT SHUT, THEN MY FLOOR PLAN DROPPED OUT MAKING SPARKS FLY EVERYWHERE.... NOW THE MAD SCIENTIST HAS TO TEAR THE BLOCK DOWN AND REPLACE THE PISTON RINGS THAT I JUST FRIED...... Yes I live a very sad life LOL

THE QUIZ IS REGARDING THE MOTOR PROBLEM NOT WHY IT DIDN'T START IN THE FIRST PLACE CUZ THATS GOT EVERYONE FARKED Well after a week of suicidal thoughts I have found that my situation wasn't quite what it was. This is the saga ...................... - Dropped Skyline off at panel beaters after two days of little moves it stopped running NO NOT BATTERY - Came down found fuel pump not priming although alarm controller battery was flat. Changed remote battery turned the alarm off and on but still wouldn't start. - Had two different Auto Electricians check it out and couldn't fault the electrics but thought it was the computer as power was going in etc etc. Found for some reason all sensors throttle, injectors etc were not reading. - Get it towed to nearby workshop HIPOWER RACING - They update the firmware on the Haltech E11V2, the computer and get all sensors back on. They keep kicking it over but it backfires etc and wont run. GET CHARGED FOR TWO HOURS LABOUR BUT THEY CANT FIND THE PROBLEM - Get it towed to Competition Tuning and Performance. They find that someone has moved the crank angle sensor(I KNOW WHO). GET CHARGED FOUR HOURS LABOUR (JUSTIN LOOKED AFTER ME ) AND GET IT STARTED AND RUNNING. SOMEONE CUN7 HAD APPARENTLY CHANGED THE INJECTOR OHMS TO 5 OHMS WHICH ALSO BLEW A FUSE TO THE INJECTORS. MY INJECTORS ARE 1000CC SARDS THAT ARE LOW IMPEDANCE 1.5 OHMS. NOW JUSTIN LETS ME KNOW THAT MY MOTOR SOUNDS FARKED AND BELIEVES THAT SOMEONE HAS FLOGGED IT ETC AS IT SOUNDS LIKE BEARINGS. AT THIS POINT MY WIFE IS WANTING ME TO HUNT DOWN AND KILL MY PANEL BEATERS BUT I KNEW I COULD TRUST THEM. THIS IS WHERE THE SUICIDAL THOUGHTS CREEP IN AS THIS HAD COST ME OVER $500 AND NOW I WAS LOOKING AT A REBUILD. I DRIVE ALL THE WAY UP TO CAPALABA AND HEAR THE MOTOR AND IT SOUNDS LIKE A FARKING DIESEL...... ANYWAY I GET IT TOWED TO MY MECHANIC DANIELS DJ SIVYER AT TIMMS COURT, WOODRIDGE AND HE DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM BEFORE IT EVEN ARRIVED........ ANY IDEAS ????????????????????????

Guy's can anyone assist with an E11v2 (They unplug easily). My car had to be towed to my tuners as it has stopped running for some unknown reason whilst it was at my panel beaters. My tuner believes that it is the ECU and not the car or wiring harness. So far it has cost me over $500 bucks trying to diagnose what they thought was a wiring problem. All I need is someone to drive their car to Competition Tuning and Performance so Justin the tuner can unplug your ecu. Plug it into my car. Start my car and if it runs then we know its my ECU. If someone has one still in a box then they can take it to competition tuning and performance at Capalaba. This will not blow it up.......... it will not throw out your tune and I am willing to compensate you for petrol to and from Competition if wanted. Competition do not stock Haltech's and don't currently have any customers cars in with one either. It would only be needed for half an hour at the most. IS ANYONE ABLE TO HELP?????????????????????????????????????? Cheers Bill(Imtorqing)