satanic

Standard sump being used, no baffles, nothing but the fins removed to clear the bottom of the crank I believe. Been going for over 1,000km (everyday driving & a few dyno sessions) - hasn't skipped a bit. The measures I was talking about have been detailed many times before on this forum - I wouldn't call them a band-aid fix as you're not 'fixing' anything during an engine build, you are providing for all situations that can happen to your engine. Until you start it up, drive around and it goes boom; you won't know if it's a poorly clearanced and/or assembled engine. By that time, damage done, band-aid not needed - call 000 instead. BTW: Custom set of pistons from Mahle in my donk; I'm pretty sure they've done their homework too

Just your typical Nismo N1 unit with the JUN Crank Collar; we have numerous Oil Control measures in place though to keep temps and flow to optimal levels. You were running a Trust / Jun pump? For such an expensive item I'm surprised that it broke / failed on you. How much longer are you from finishing again?

Gonna be floating between my house parteh and my mates house parteh; 50m apart n both overlooking the Harbour I should be fine to walk 50m and stand in a lift

Agree with 'handbrake' - those who think people who buy a daily driver for $200K don't worry about warranty are quite simply 'off with the fairies' How many Ferrari owners do you know have bought one fresh from the showroom and not worried about the after-sales support / warranty. Even though there is a certain expectation that a $400K car will not fail on you; I'd hate to be shelling out for say a new engine, gearbox, or whatever should something happen. Imagine this... two mates buy GTRs - one is imported and one is Australia delivered. 6 months later, both cars encounter the same problem. Australian delivered one gets a free repair whilst the imported one has to shell out $20K. Who's feeling stupid now? Since this car is going to be Australian delivered, and mass delivered as well - how many people are really going to be able to tell the difference/s? All that risk, for what? So you can say you've got one 6 months before everyone else?

Sorry but you speak of a very small minority when it comes to that (I myself being part of that minority) but most people with 200K+ cars don't "go ahead and void their warranties'... Driving a car like its supposed to be driven is one thing - you see a lot of exotic owners do that. How many Ferraris or Lambos do you see around where the owner has deliberately gone and voided the warranty?

Yeah you say that now... but you'd be feeling pretty stupid if you did spend $200K and something broke

Sorry, but anyone with half a brain (or a means of using the internet) will know that "a touch under $200K" is fairy-land for this car Oh so you say, "but it's JDM"... HA, $200K for a car with no official warranty LOL

Larry - you need to specify what type of industry you are in. Recruitment agencies specialize in different fields - if you work in any of the professional industries, you need a specialist firm as they usually get all the best roles (due to their existing database of candidates) Cris - unfortunately uni students are at the bottom of the food chain at the moment (at least in my industry anyways). With the bad economy, and so many people being laid off, the few companies that are hiring are able to snap up experienced and quality labour for cheap. That's just reality. However, you never know there's always exceptions to every rule. I've started looking around, despite there being no immediate threat to my employment - just want to see what's out there and ultimately how attractive I am to other employers. Surprisingly I've been offered two roles in less than a week, both matching or bettering my current package - I turned them both down for a few reasons which I won't go into. But yeah, there are jobs out there - just make sure your CV stands out from the crowd. FYI I use 2 personal agents who work for competing agencies - they know this - which makes them work very hard as they want the fee associated with any placement to be theirs.

So nothing mechanical related? Asking so I can have items checked on mine if there is a possibility of it happening. If it's tune related, meh - mine's in as good a nick as can be.

What happened to your 1st RB30 combo? Wasn't it just finished earlier this year?

Parteh in pants now... OH WOOOOO~~~~

Mmm... maybe so, I haven't noticed anything different - grab another SAU R34 and try it out?

Don't worry about it... just file the ends off to make it look pretty again and leave it be, won't affect anything.

Bonnet is on the best that it can be... the RB30 conversion has set the overall height of the engine higher by 40mm and the front of it is fouling on the bonnet support (even with heat shielding off). Without lowering the subframe, cutting the supports, the only way we could achieve a closed bonnet was to space it up. It's a bit unsightly... but then again the car was never built to be 'pretty'. Does a good job at venting away hot air though as there is now a clear route that heat can escape from under there. Maybe later I'll get some custom guard moulds made up to blend up to the top of the bonnet (removing the gap). Will just make the front look mega-beefy.

Was a marvelous day today so decided to go out with a mate n take some happy snaps. Actually have a couple of proper shoots coming up over Dec and Jan, but thought I'd give it a go n see first hand what I can do between now and then to make things a little nicer. Anywho, thoughts? * Photographer - Stan & Mitch * Equipment - SONY DSC H10 * Software - Adobe PS CS3 & FrameFun PS: Excuse the n00bness... wasn't exactly a DSLR - effects n features from the base shots were not that abundant.

Your need a new mechanic... stat!

Don't the 335s use a variable turbo technology - one turbo is actually larger than the other isn't it? That's how they get the response out of it, and don't forget it has a bigger engine than your 25 to begin with so it'll be a lot more torquey to begin with.

One of mine got ripped off when car got broken into in 06... first removed the chunks with Prepsol and then cleaned up using degreaser on a rag; gets rid of all sticky stuff.

Just shuttup n nod bitch

We should do a Sydney wide R34 meet

ORLY? Damn... wish I knew that earlier, we could've hooked up n had babies I'm at Milsons Point now.

First time I've heard about FMICs requiring mesh in order to be legal... are you sure?

Do you live in Mosman Dallas?

Those figures of boost don't sound right... especially when paired to the power outputs; are you sure you haven't maxed out the turbo setup at 16psi?

Cooler Piping: EX - 2.5" IN - 3.0" Makes the front-on view look kinda retarded but it works well after going into a 600x300x100 core - even the "temp-on-the-hands" gauge registers a massive difference. FMIC & Piping surprisingly took very minimal effort, got it all done in a few hours - cost was a lot less than anticipated with the amount of gear required. Dyno Graph: * As mentioned, only got the one showing ~350rwkw. * You'll notice boost comes on really late, the E01 was not properly configured at this stage - we now get 1BAR @ 3,500rpm * The RED lines are from the final tune of the RB25 setup which saw 240rwkw Pending how the lead-up to the festive season goes, I'll try put it on a dyno again