BezerkR32

its a scavenger set-up, ensures oil is always available for the pump, no surge issues but as you said still leaves the possibility open for oil pump failure.

Thats cool, even though they are speaking japanese you still get the idea what they are saying. Very funny.

if you have a read through Duncans R32 build thread you will see some fuel tank/surge tank discussion that youl find helpfull. but in short if you are running a cell with no internall pumps, you will need a surge tank/lift pump setup. . unless you modify tank to run internall pumps with a sump or baffles. i am trying this in my car. have modified fuel cell to house 2 040 bosch pumps to eliminate the need of a surge tank, but it is untested a this stage.

you and me both, project has been dragging on as of late. speaking of hearing it, i met Gonzo aka Gonzos exhausts last saturday as we were pitted next to him. had a few drinks and listened to some stories as the night became next morning. He and his son crew the Toyota Orion 2JZ powered 6 second monster. They pulled some mufflers out of the truck that would blow your mind. Once the engine goes back in and i know what bends etc i need ill post some pics of these mufflers as they are out of this world.

Rob, have you used the intake on any car you have tuned and if so how did you find it? Sold the go-kart over the week-end so cashed up and ready for suspension package. Will be giving SK another ring during the week to get the ball rolling. also looking at ordering front G4 brake set-up fromJust Jap. looking forward to this stage of the project as it has stalled as of late. its all dollars at the end of the day. another step closer to finishing.

Turosmart BOVs now available to suit new R35 GTR bolt on Dual port valve.

im looking at turning it to around 7000rpm. next engine ill throw rods at for some insurance. not real keen on a blower, it just seems like the easy way out, and besides, if this thing makes 400hp it will be potent enough. otherwise ill have traction issues etc etc. but i can guarantee you it will get a good rev.

had a customer turn up with a complete LS2 in a crate, had manifolds, the lot. Sticker on the crate said 91kg gross including packaging.

i can make you custom speedflow lines for around that price.

I like that. It is becomming a bit of a (everybodys doing that) though. Oh well, mines a 32 so its different. Purchased a few bits and pieces courtesy of some boys on here. Brake master cylinder brace and strut brace. Almost got enough cash to buy front brakes, and if i sell go-kart ill get suspension. still waiting on heads.

yeh, totally different system as ours was total loss, but we found volume of water to be the issue, not so much pressure. the small lines and pump could not flow enough water around the core. our air tems were 15-20deg lower with this system than a air to air. but we didnt push the system for long time periods. it will be interesting to see how it goes after 5 or so laps.

hey guys, do you have any pics of the water to air set-up? we ran the PWR barrel cooler in the drag car for a while. took a bit of stuffing around to get it to work. ended up replacing the plumbing from -8 an fittings to radiator size piping to achieve enough flow to cool properly. we had a 20litre tank in the car which we would pack full of ice water and pump it with a davies craig electric water pump. we were able to keep air temps down to 40deg at the end of the run, but being a total loss system as in having no radiator to cool the water once it had passed through, we had to change the water every pass. the water was luke warm when i would drop it, its amazing how hot the intake charge must be.

90% of your running in is done in the first 15mins after start up. you should have held engine at 2500-3000rpm for 10-15mins. this runs the cams in as well as beds the rings. some load on the dyno will also do it the world of good for 15-20mins, then tune it. not a great believer of running in engines as the first 15 mins are critical. if the rings dont bed in then, they never will. i will be firing my engine and running the cams in while i bleed the cooling system, checking it for leaks, then tuning it.

you blokes are insane, those high speed entries are nuts. looks like you will be back out on the track soon. good luck with it.

Unfortunately the factory nissan guages are poor at the best of times. you can purchase an oil pressure warning light and sender that will come on at 30psi. if this comes on when your up it you have a bit of time to get out of it and reduce damage. by the time your factory guage reads and the 0psi light comes on its too late.

all the bearing sizes are stamped on the front of the crank. there is a chart you get from nissan and you use it with the numbers stamped on the crank to disipher bearing size. after market bearings are all the same size. crank grinding or linishing is a must when using them. micking the crank and then the tunnel is much more accurate than plastiguage also.

theres no dought that you wouldnt wish this on anyone, and yes the matter could have been much more complicated if someone had have been injured. I will definately be installing a scater shield in my car now. i can understand you being well pissed. Give the bloke a chance and hopefully all will work out well. Its the hard way to go about getting an engine freshn up but anyway. Good luck with it. People should also be aware that the covers and diaphrams used are purchased off the shelf items, they are not fabricated. Its impossible to know that there might be a problem with a cover unless one fails. Jim always explains to me on those long phone calls how he searches for the best quality cover with thicker wall thickness etc to try and eliminate these failures. he definately does not use cheap parts in his clutches. im shore if you asked 10 clutch builders if they had a clutch fail, that most would say yes. this is not uncommon.

the man builds thousands of clutches, 3 of them have issues and all of a sudden his clutches are no good. the man runs a business , has insurance for these sort of misshaps, and will sort it out. Suggest you guys tread carefully or you might find yourselves up for defamation.

probably a good idea. trust you mechanic as this is what he does for a living. he, will end up getting a build out of it if you dont do it so either way he is getting work. rather spend the $1000 fitting the sump than a couple of grand re-building engine and still having to buy sump. not hard to replace sump in the car.

that was my concern also.

yes, im also running a 30psi warning switch, just not sure how to overcome the lower oil pressures at idle shutting the car down. maybe just run it to the light and shut the car down manually. dont like the idea of car shutting down by itself. maybe switching into a limp mode. will have to look into it.

I bought these switch clusters from ACA. there are different combinations and colours. they look trick and were reasonably priced. using them for lights and wipers and obviously ignition/start.

Last year was the first time i had been. we sat in the Jones stand, was awesome. You wont regret spending the cash on stand tickets.

pump is mechanical and is driven via a belt off the crank. so unless the engine is solid mounted, you have to mount it on engine. also keeps belt shorter to eliminate it being thrown off which would be bad. some pumps are also gear driven. not sure if air will factor into equation on race car.

harden it until it does not want to stall after a rev. should see valve close before rpm settles back to idle