sl33py

ishh: The auto electrician I dealt with when picking up the car was some mongrel obviously in a big rush (for *#& knows what reason, it wasn't lunch or the end of the day), and he barely spoke a word of english, hence me walking away without a clear answer simply cos I couldn't understand him and noone else was around. JaR: Who said anything about a jap battery? From memory I don't think it is jap. And I said I jump out of the car real quick... obviously I'm NOT sitting in the car park with the shit running and the engine off. Thanks so much for the genuine non-sarcastic help...

Recently had a short circuit (sub box connections loosened>touched>blew a head unit connections making it go pop badly on powerup). Anyway, that's fixed, but the auto-elec said my battery might be gone cos while working on it with the key in the accessory postion and engine off, it died after about 10-15 minutes. They said it should last a coupla hours at least if the stereo isn't on. Annoyingly, they didn't say "you need a new battery" or "we should check the rest of the system for grounding" etc... u know what I mean? Couldn't give me a straight answer So now I'm worried cos I'm about to get my stereo upgraded and if the car's struggling to hold charge 10 minutes then I want to fix that first. I already jump out of the car and lock it real quick out of paranoia So I'm gonna check the battery manufacture date. How can I tell how long it is into it's life? I read some batteries last 2 years, some 4. If the battery isn't long in the tooth, I'm gonna check what the nominal amp being drawn from the battery is while I'm parked. I read it's supposed 50mA (plus whatever the boot light draws if on). Is that correct? Roughly same for all cars? Mine's a '96 R33 GTST. Also, the auto-elec said I need a "sealed" battery. That's what's in there at the moment. Somewhere else said that's a load of hooey. What does everyone else have? The battery in there at the moment looks a lot smaller than the seat/frame it's sitting in. I think there's meant to be a larger battery there... After checking there's no crazy draw on the system while off (and fixing that if there is), if I need a new battery, what's the biggest/longest lasting one that will fit in an R33 2 dour? BTW, the audio system isn't anything crazy, so don't think I need a second battery etc. It's a 700W rms 4 channel amp, off a JVC head unit with focal splits and a 10" sub.

JVC! Forget Alpine unless you want to have an accident while adjusting the stereo (and I'm talking about even when the car is stationary!) I just bought an 800 bucks Alpine head unit (9853) and even has their highly toughted little bar which u can slide your finger across, but it sucks totally. In all but the most expensive Alpine units, the "graphic" EQ isn't. When I read that, I expect a row of bars with at least a left/right and up/down button to adjust them visually. On the Alpine, its just a boost/cut amount, Q number, and frequency. Now, before ppl go saying "u don't know what ur doing!" I DO. But I don't want to set it up that way. My old JVC was much more intuitice and displayed a LOT more info at once, for half the price. And the aerial is ALWAYS up, even if your source is the CD/MP3, which pi$$es me off no end. And their second from top of the line unit has 2 volt preouts!!! WTF and their top of the line has only 4V!!! In my car, I can hear the white noise in the background when I'm cranked up to only 3/4 volume, and I did the proper method to set my amp's gains using the head unit's volume. Disgusting for a second from top of the line product! And when I set all the frequencies to -0 on the EQ and then dialled in +6 on the lowest frequency, I can hear it dialling OUT the higher frequencies in a vain attempt to level out the sound for you! I don't want that! I want the EQ frequency settings to be completely independant! Otherwise you have to raise the volume again to get the treble/whatever where u wanted it, cos the unit changed everything around you! GRRRRRRR Eclipse seem to have impressed specs on their units (eg 8V preouts), but I asked the owner of the local audio shop to show me how to change the angle on it and he couldn't figure it out. That's an instant disqualification for me! It also just looked clumsy and too small to read in general. JVC's could be operated by a baby, but are high quality. The only reason I had to buy the alpine unit was cos i had a short which killed my old jvc unit *sniff* With alpines and eclipse units, you can't see all the main menu options at once, which in my opinion is a joke. On JVC you can see pretty much everything and once, and those u can't, are the obscure set-once and forget options. Anyway, I've just gone and bought the JVC KD-SHX855 for 668 @ JB. Apparently they are releasing a new range of head units (they can be checked out at www.jvc.com they all look awesome, but will be more expensive on initial release. The one I bought was 1000rrp when released and now 750rrp. It has every single thing I want in a head unit. 5V preouts, 9 band graphic EQ, AND parametric EQ for those who want it. Time correction for all speakers, will read SD cards, adjustable face angle, a few "la di la" things to make the music sound better (the usual junk noone uses except for the heck of it), but best of all, SOOO easy to use. So if u consider these the most important goals of your head unit (like me): - EASY TO USE INTERFACE! - High pre out voltages - Detailed EQ section with user presets - Auto ariel up/down - Reliability (I dropped my JVC faceplate once or twice, battlescars, but still worked perfectly!) - High degree of control over things like time delay between speakers. Then for god's (and anyone else's) sake, buy a JVC unit, or at least play with a unit in the shop to make sure u can do the important stuff before splashing out. I had to buy the alpine cos I was at work while they had my car open to fix other things and found the old unit was stuffed, so I couldnt try it. I woulda been better off getting them to put in a 200 buck job and swap later, instead of paying the 800, I've yet to pay off! That's right, I've bought my next head unit, before the old ones even paid off. That's how much I hate the thing. (end rant lol). Whatever you buy, just be sure to test it out first!

Saw HCR-32R last night coming from the big roundabout near Gungahlin into Belco and then turned off into Kaleen (I think). I was behind you in the R33. GF says you were sms'ing! tsk tsk tsk

Got a wave from the white R33 on Belco Way this mornin' ~8.35. Gday Nice ride. Forgotten ur name since the dyno tho!

1x white R33 goin down Belconnen Way this morning about 8.30, doing the same thing as me - trying to find his way through the slowpokes! Turned off at the hospital turn off (I think). Think I met u at the recent dyno day, I had a silver R33. Waved, but nothin (that I saw anyway)

Just buy the splitfires. 500 from perfectrun.com.au any other fix is temporary. When I pulled them out of the box my first thought was "woah.. nothing's gonna arc through THAT" You have to pull them out to do the taping or whatever, so might as well pull them out once and be done with it.

Yeah Though, I found out yesterday that I've now lost any kinda signal from my head unit regardless of volume / signal source or amp settings... maybe the "short" they found was the signal wire - nice one guys! Goin back monday...

They said it was a potential short circuit in the dash. Makes sense, fuses don't go for no reason So the A/C memory and the clock are both fixed now. Oh, and in the brief fiddle I had while driving back to work, I no longer have the "clack clack clack" noise when changing the A/C settings. I wonder if maybe the motor that made that noise was looking for a particular voltage/resistance, and if it couldn't find it cos of the short, it just kept trying and stopped after a preset time (the 5-7 seconds everyone seems to hear the noise). Just a thought..

Hrmm. Yeah hoping it's a simple and obvious broken connection like you said cos this morning the auto elec made it pretty clear the only kinda problem solving he can do on the car is pretty low-level since they don't work on skylines very often. *fingers crossed* I half expect it to be a common connection broken as it would make sense to me if the clock and A/C both use the same line to remember their settings. But then, the clock is dead altogether, not just forgetful, so who knows

My clock doesn't work at all (doesn't light up) and my climate control keeps forgetting what it was last set to and starts at 25 every morning. I checked all the fuses under the dash - had two blown but neither fixed it (f**k knows what else has been broken lol, I haven't noticed anything). Anyway, I noticed the A/C fuse is a large one under the hood. I don't spose it's shared by the clock?? I haven't had time to check the fuses under the hood yet, but it wouldn't surprise me... I'm hoping this is the simple answer and that fuse just needs replacing. Otherwise, all my fuses are fine and I have a larger problem Another thing: I've sometimes got the *clack clack clack* noise when the A/C comes on cos of the dodgy actuator/ louvre mechanism slipping. Is there any chance that problem could have caused the fuse to go (if, indeed it's gone)? And hence I need to solve it to stop the fuse from blowing again? Just a thought..

Where would be the best place to get something trivial like the in-dash clock fixed? An auto electrician (if so, which?), or somewhere known for knowing their skylines like Ed etc? (tho i spoke to Ed and i don't think he buggers around with silly stuff like that)..

Ah I haven't been out that way to look yet

I heard Fast and Furious moved? Where are they now? I need the clock in my dash fixed and also the A/C "clack-clack" problem fixed. I'm not worried about being ripped off cos it'll be under warranty (at least, I think I'm safe?! lol), but do they at least do a decent job? or do they joy-ride n stuff like everyone says EVO do? I read somewhere that they were moving to a better premises to be taken more seriously as a workshop...

Saw a nice white Stagea waiting to pull out of the parking lot near the Canberra Theatre in Civic yesterday arvo ~5.30pm, I was driving the silver R33 GTST, exchanged waves.

Saw a silver R33 S2 with biiig rims today turning left off Tillyard Drive.. I was the silver R33 coming the other way

This is the last little thing bugging me with the car.. in 1.5 months, I've already had to replace the front rotors/pads, get the radiator flushed (was 3/4 blocked after 1 month of daily driving and one or two very brief high speed stints), the plastic part across the top of the radiator replaced, water pump replaced, throttle position sensor replaced, coilpacks replaced, sparkplugs replaced. *sigh* I WILL make it right lol Personally I'm amazed a car can run with so many things either slightly or completely stuffed.

It's meant to be able to hit the firewall w3asel, but it shouldn't NEED to go that far to engage. Mine doesn't. The clutch probably shouldn't be at rest as far back as u describe (assuming u have stock pedal setup, mine's stock). Check the bracket(s) holding the pedals and stuff are still structurally sound, I've read they can weaken over time. If they look ok, maybe someone's changed the pedal position on you before u bought it, if it started out that way. If it's happened over time then maybe bleed ur clutch, am I right guys? So far as I know though, bleeding the clutch only affects the catch point and get rids of sponginess and other problems, doesn't affect the travel of the overall pedal. As stock: the clutch and brake pedals should be about even and the gas about a 1/2 inch closer to the firewall, maybe more. On the R33 I saw this morning, the clutch was slightly behind the brake pedal, but not 3-4cm like ur saying. Anyway, my car's stock as, which is why I'm so annoyed I can't get comfy.

Well I press hard on it so I know the clutch is all the way in before changing gears (and yeah I change geers relatively quickly.. not slowly). It's more of a confirmation thing.. u know? As for when I'm reversing, I'm turned to the left to loko behind me and left arm holding the passenger seat.. so u can see I'd have to reach even further for the clutch during that time. So if I'm further than I like during normal driving, I've got even less control in this situation. Until now, I've had the front of the seat all the way UP and the rear all the way DOWN to create an angle that does screw my right leg up so bad since I'm so close for the clutch. That's what's making me knee the wheel. But if I drop the front, my leg is straighter and the gas/brake feels even closer = more pain. Bah! I figure it's just plain WRONG when I've owned the car nearly two months now and haven't found a position I can just leave the seat in and be comfy.

Yeah I know clutch is fully engaged only 2"-3" from rest position but everyone I've ever talked to about this said the clutch should be pressed all the way no matter what, and I'm just used to it. I'm only 167cm tall, so I'm not overly large or small, I just have trouble putting the clutch in all the way like I'm used to when I'm placed well for the brake and gas pedals. It's just very disconcerting with no anchor point for my weight while heel-toeing, or even just reversing down my drive way.

ben.. you're looking at the fixed vent(s) that cycle air through the cabin regardless of the A/C settings.. I was talking about the 4-direction adjustable A/C vents on the front face of the dash. There is the box that holds the vent. Then there is a bunch of "fins". And holding those fins is (I think it's just one) a piece with the little handle u push/pull which connects to a bar holding the rear of all the fins. It's THAT part rattling against the fins. Greasing/whatever will probably work as mentioned before. Just checking you were looking at the right part(s). Sucks to be annoyed by the little things, eh

For whoever cares... Had the brake pedal set further in. Now it's crap for heel and toe (i.e. I can't do it any more). And now that I sit a little closer it feels like the gas pedal is too close. *sigh* A guy at the mechanic's owns an R33 and his is exactly where mine WAS, surprise, surprise. Sooo I'm gonna have the brake set back to stock and fix what I've realised is the root problem: My clutch pedal goes all the way to the firewall when fully engaged. Now this is probably stock, but it annoys the hell out of me cos I use the clutch pedal to anchor my weight when I'm heel-toeing. In my last car (Civic, also with hydraulic clutch) I had it set so that it only travelled as far as needed to engage, not all the way to the firewall. I can't think of an alternative to adjusting the clutch stopping point for somewhere to putt my weight against during heel-toe, and for the other pedals to feel right at the same time. I know u don't need to push the clutch all the way for it to be fully engaged, but I think it's better if when it's fully in, it's also as far as you can physically push it, otherwise u end up getting lazy and possibly not clutching properly. And for me cos of the anchor point reason. Call me a p1cky f**ker but right now my right leg is caning me from sitting too close to the gas/brake pedals so that I can put the clutch all the way to the floor comfortably. I'm so close that when the clutch is in and I'm braking and I raise my knee slightly (to get my heel over the gas), I'm kneeing the steering wheel

Just bought my 96 GTS-T/ 100% funded by loan, by the time I paid insurance and everything else, I had 14 bucks left from my $2500 limit credit car and like $100 bucks left in all my bank accounts before the next pay day lol Live at home (90/week board though!), don't smoke, don't drink, don't club. I DO drive though Already spent 2100 in fixes/mods though... eep. But then again, I've already paid off 8% of the loan in 3 months. Repayment is 650/month but paying about 1500 a month, so hope to pay it off in 18 months with only ~3K interest. All about sacrifices I guess, esp when you're not on 60K or have any other kinda assets to use. I'm in IT too and ~50k. Anyone whose said there's no money in IT or the market is bad is either looking for jobs in the wrong technology (i.e. something on the way out or decreasing popularity) or is still too low on the food chain to complain! (e.g. me, in the field for only 2 years).

MISFIRE GONE! car idles better, runs slightly smoother overall. Go the splitfires And damn do perfectrun deliver quickly! Even during the Christmas mail-busy season

Mine and my brothers' figures, if someone wants to collate: 96 R33 GTS-T S2 with 3" exhaust from dump = 151kW 91 Corolla Seca SX, stock = 75kW