sl33py

Splitfires for $550 delivered as of 20/12/05 = www.perfectrun.com.au Mine are in Redfern on the 19th after being dispatched in Japan on the 17th!

The rattle from the air vent area is actually the air vent. I have it too in my R33 (from the driver side vent and sometimes from the middle too as well). The little A/C vents that you can change the angle of are guided by a small, loosely held plastic bar at the back of the vent "box" which moves the angled 'slats'. I think to stop the rattle, it could mess up the vent working properly. But you could try. Alternatively, just block up the A/C vent and not hear anything at all from all the sweat clogging up ur ears All car's make road noise. Even Ferraris, Lambos and BMW's the same age as our cars (and some younger!) will rattle. Obviously some can be fixed/dampened (ripped my old Civic apart trying), but some can't be found because they are caused by interaction between the trim and the chassis or whatever and you won't see the cause when u open her up cos u can't reproduce the sound. Many a time I had my bro monkeying around in the Civic pinpointing noises while I drove over a bumpy stretch of road And often to no avail. BTW, Honda's are the WORST for rattles. Go ride in a 10 year old honda then get back in ur R33 and u'll stop complaining

Mine are in the glovebox! jk... Just wondering how other ppl's have theirs. I'm getting my brake pedal adjusted so its further in cos it's too close and I'm smacking my foot into the side of it (no matter how I adjust the seat etc). Pedals are like this atm (front of the car is facing left and roughly lifesize): A.....|............ \/ right foot hits here every time! B................................| C................................| Changing to: A.....| B...................| C................................| I think they were already messed with for the pedal covers that I ripped out when I bought the car. Quiet scary when you go to brake and hook your foot up UNDER the brake pedal which I've done once or twice!

Not sure.. I *think* it's the engine originally in the Trueno. The engine it's replaced with in D is from the AE111 and that's the one that revs to 11k. Either way, my bro is clueless about the whole thing, just like Takumi hahahahaha

Well if my old rotors were shot... even stock rotors would stop me quicker

Had a good time too! Glad to get 150kw on my Gtst with only exhaust And to show my brother why I was happy when he got the corolla with the 20 valve 4AGE engine (75kw). Funny he just shrugged his shoulders when ppl asked him about the car, cos he doesn't know/care Got 290 thou on the clock too... they build em well!

Saw a white R32 with black rims going down Mort Street in Civic. Saw from my work window I think he stopped for maccas too. And while out at Ed's today, saw an awesome looking R33 GTR with paint that looked black from afar but was actually very deep purple up close... Ed was about to put in a RB26DETT which I saw at various stages at Ed's while making a few trips out there over the past few weeks. Swap ya for mine

I was wrong. Did the test where u look at the engine in the dark with the cover off so you can see the coilpacks. Mine are FAAAAAARRRRKED! lol I'm arcing from packs very badly 1, 3, 6 (about once or twice a second from each!) and after that I stopped looking cos I was so happy to see an obvious reason/fault. I'm ordering Splitfires from a site for very cheap (sub 600). Once I've received them, I'll post the site here, as I don't want them inundated with orders before mine ship (esp at XMas time) MAN I can't wait to rip those pieces of #(*# out of the car. Even my mechanic and the dealer said they were ok. Taking the cover off and watching the packs dark test works!!! "DUU it!" as they say in Starsky and Hutch. Note: I couldn't see the arc from the front, only from the side and when sticking my head in so I could see right down into the depths of the coilpack area. I assume I saw arcing cos not all the packs were flashing regularly, and only some of them were doing the flash I saw.

Yep, got it in one stealth Can't wait to get her back (should be today). Hopefully a flush will be OK. Dad said in one car he had, a flush just blew holes in the radiator and needing replacing altogether! I'm wondering one thing though: should the rb25det be able to take 5 or 6 hits to redline in a row? e.g. get in 2nd gear, do about 20kph then floor it til redline. Slow down. Repeat. I was doing that to test high RPM misfire when I noticed the overheating. Now obviously that's not "normal" use for the car, but I don't imagine it's too different from anyone who heads off to Wakefield or Oran park for a day. Now what I wanna know is, should the car be able to do that ocassionally or is it a really dumb thing to do? Cos.. it IS a performance engine, but this overheat has got me wondering, and kinda deterring me from really testing out any misfire at higher RPM or taking it up that high in the first place! Obviously the power increase tails off around 6400 (don't know the exact rpm)... A mate was telling me that anyone who races their car mods the cooling system (FMIC etc). But if turbo engines need that stuff for what I'm talking about - just a 20-30 minute hoon or to stay up above 5K for any decent time, I'd be very surprised (altho I'm new to turbo so maybe, but just seems weird). What do u reckon? Cos at some stage I'm gonna get Splitfires and will want to repeat that high rpm test again. NB: It was a hot day when I did it, but don't think it was any hotter than the ambient temps u'd find on a race track. Probably a stupid question and out of context since the car was overheating no matter how I drove it, but I think it's related.

HAHAHA Binky, I like it Shame you couldn't get them. Probably some chick got them on a pink barina her dad gave her :|

I'm definitely up for a run, and my brother is too. Pls add these to the list: sl33py 1x R33 GTS-T (that's 'rincewind' (nick change) confirmed) sam 1x corolla

Cause: radiator more than 2/3's blocked and (possibly as a result of the blockage), the water pump leaking slightly. Need the radiator properly flushed and new pump. So now the car's an in-patient overnight but I get it back tomorrow. So there ya go. Over the past few weeks I've been amazed at how this engine is able to perform at 50%-70% of it's capacity (or more!) with knackered parts that I would have though were vital! On one hand it's great.. means you're less likely to be stuck out woopwoop because of one failed component, but on the other hand, I'm wondering what else isn't right and if I'm getting as much power/efficiency out of it as I should be! Oh well, I didn't know what to do with all my paycheck anyway.. *Not*

Search.... Between 12(granny) - 17(stompin') L /100kms for me. Stock cept exhaust.

Stealth: What's corrosion inhibitor and what does it look like? The car was overhearing *before* we flushed the system. We weer flushing it because of the overheat! So the flush isn't the cause. It wasn't dropping out chunks of stuff.. it was just very brown coolant, which starts off a reddish colour anyway right! So I don't expect it was toooo bad. Thanks for the input all. Hopefully my mechanic will find the cause tomorrow. MAN it sucks babying it and having everyone overtake u.

It's going in tomorrow! Can't do anything til then

Yeah man the box said RDA on em.. and my redstuffs are working out well so far, barely a peep and I'm able to pull up faster

haha yeah Snowman knows the deal, not that it matters now

Yeah, of course I realise it's bad for it to be running at all with this 5hit goin on. But I gotta drive it 25kms to get it to the mechanic anyway.. I'm just babying it. It'll only be driven from work to home once more (12 minute trip each way), then straight to the mechanic Wednesday morning. I can keep it at just over half if I keep the A/C off and don't boost at all. Plus, it didn't happen at all this morning (since cooler ambient temp I guess), and I only noticed it starting to creep up just before I got home this arvo. Hopefully it'll be fine for just one more day.. just trying to find where the thermostat is in the engine now....

Ah I see @ thermostat! Thanks for explaining that. It did it again just driving home for 15 minutes, humid ACT day, buggerall boost, 60kms and 80kms, A/C on full > 2/3's temp. LAME. I'll suggest the thermostat to my mechanic, as I dunno where the thermostat is to check myself and he needs to fix something else anyway. Hopefully the thermostat can be a generic model and I don't have to wait for ordering away :| Car goes in Wednesday!

My mate who helped me flush the cooling system said the radiator cap looked ok, but I'm sure the mechanic will check that. How do you bleed the cooling system?? We just removed the plug at the bottom, pulled out the overflow reservoir, cleaned the junk of out it, and ran a hose on full pelt into the top of the radiator until the brown liquid turned clear. Then we Put back the bottom plug, filled the readiator with coolant, put the cap on, filled the overflow tank to just below the max line, and that's it. Nuffsaid: I don't understand this: "Try replacing the thermostat, maybe its not opening up at the right temperature" The thermostat is the same thing as the engine temperature gauge isn't it? And if that's the case, what's it opening up?? I thought it just measured the temp.. didn't think it did anything. And yeah.. I'm worried/annoyed about this, cos A) I don't think it'll make it to the coast the way it currently is and B) it DEFINITELY won't see track time in this condition, let alone the dyno day I want to go to this weekend I hope the mechanic finds an obvious and easy to fix cause, otherwise I get the impression it could be expensive.. for example, is a possible cause the engine head leaking? my dad was going on about the gasket and someone else said blown gaskets and this has got me kinda worried, but I dunno if they are just talking out their a$$e$.

Well I think the temp gauge works since it read as bloody hot and the coolant was boiling Think I'm just overheating badly for some reason. What could cause this? I know so far: leak in radiator (don't think so.. no leaks when we flushed it), lack of coolant (have topped it up a few times now.. so it's losing it, but I think that's a by-product of the bad overheating, not a cause)...

Yeah.. well for me normal temp is a bit over half, and just below that warning line when I pushed it a bit. Sux.

Oh, and recently the plugs were changed from NGK PFR5G-11 to NGK BK5ES-11.. this wouldn't be related at all right? They were changed cos the old plugs were crappy and misfiring @ 5-7k rpm. The swap fixed the misfire.

Oh so in answer to checked for leaks, we only saw it running out of the plug hole in the bottom. I dunno how u test it any further than that, other than getting the mechanic to do a pressure test. .. I *knew* I was overheating badly oh well, back to the mechanic.

We just flushed out and replaced the coolant, used Nulon "top up" premixed.. the red stuff. was 21 bucks for 5 litres. While flushing, we only saw it coming out of the hole in the bottom of the radiator (or whatever it is that bottom plug is stopping). It ran really dirty for a while, we took out the overflow reservoir and cleaned it out too and it eventually ran clear. The next day after the flush, the overflow reservoir was basically empty, so I topped it up again and went for a drive, but the when I pulled over, the o/f reservoir level was much higher than the max level, so that makes me think that it's ok for the o/f to be empty after standing overnight, and I shouldn't have put in the extra. But still, I don't think that would cause this (and it was happening the night before I topped it up again anyway).