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Adriano

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Everything posted by Adriano

  1. Are you talking about douching?
  2. Repco or auto one sell universal accel cables, so you only need to sort out a bracket, although i would only use the cable until you can get cablecraft to make up a decent one, just draw the dimensions that you want and they will make it. (General auto instruments in lidcombe do cablecraft, about $70 and really good quality)
  3. cummon, this has been discussed about 1,000,000 times here, anything over 12 psi and you are gambling, regardless of age. Anyway you dont really get any more power turning it up above that. Run 10-11 psi and sort out the rest of your system first(exhaust, i/c, management) and then if you want more power, get a highflow.
  4. Its unlikely to be the AFM, more likely to be an intercooler pipe blown off, does it have a front mount?
  5. the greddy copy manifolds have been discussed in the froced inuction forum, the casting quality seems to be poor, and you can get them off ebay for about $200, noone has got dyno proof yet if they work. I think the siemens injectors are all top feed, so unless you get an r34 fuel rail, which fits the greddy copy manifold, they wont fit. Even with the rail, im not sure if the siemens are the same dimensions as the r34 gtt injectors
  6. Beside the passengers left foot
  7. It depends if it is a chipped r32 rb20 or 25 ecu, or a stock or chipped r33 ecu, i cant see it possibly being a stock r33 ecu. In my experience there is no such thing as a freak car, maybe 10 rwkw, but not 50, and ive done 100s of power runs in cars. If it makes that power, it does it for a reason. It appears to have the supporting hardware, now its just the injectors and management, you need to pull the cover off theecu and have a look.
  8. As a rule of thumb, 600hp
  9. Sorry, a bit OT, but how does a map sensor stuff cold start(id really hate to own a $40,000 supra with cold start issues)
  10. GT35r with .63 exhaust, should make it with 18psi, and be responsive, you will need fuel pump, 550cc injectors, probably valve springs and cams if you want to make it at lower boost. Just use an ebay high mount manifold, may need to upgrade exhaust(or run a sreamer pipe)
  11. looks like valve springs, put them in with a set of cams, and camwheels.Buy the parts yourselfand pay a workshop $80p.h. to fit it, camwheels are $175 pair in a group buy, stop getting ripped off.
  12. feeds boost to the wastegate actuator to control boost, without it it will overboost and blow the turbo.
  13. Screw a fitting into the piping
  14. and the post of the day goes to SK (again)
  15. pics or ban
  16. did 40k include buying the car? I dont see how a shop will let you spend 40k on the motor and not put cams in it.
  17. ill let you know 2 morrow, a mate has to pay for it as he pinched mine after crashing his car.
  18. hmmm. i spose if its eithere a custom crankshaft or drysumped mayby. Yes, probably with the same suppotring hardware that is required to rev an rb26 to 10500rpm, so your not really losing many revs.
  19. It depends on the size of the port in the flange, with the wasegate in the turbo housing, all the exhaust gas must pass through the flange, and can cause high ex manifold backpressure, although at these sort of power levels i cant imagine it being a major problem.
  20. Cummon disco, he said freight train, not just the loco, you would have to be lookinbg at a couple of thousand ton
  21. just curious what people consider big revs for an rb26, i cant see many in australia that need to rev to 10k. To want to rev it this hard, you would have to have a turbo which comes on at 6k, who wants that?
  22. Hi, im in sydney, and after an r32 gtr pass side tie rod that goes freon the rack to the rod end if anyone has one?
  23. Yep, using them on a starion, dial up 4ms dwell time, so far making 240rwkw with two coils, so should be fine for at least 360 rwkw on a six. It certainly helps to upgrade the power and earth wires to reduce voltage drop, And adaptronics are great valuewith more features then anything of the same cost.
  24. Any opposing cylinders in the firing order, between the head and the throttle body.
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