Adriano

Shhh dont say that, how funny would it be if he lost his skyline, one less of "them" on this forum

just wondering why you would want to increse fuel pressure over stock, they run rich as from the factory.

The vacuum hose must go to the plenum between the throttle body and #4 inlet runner, there is a port there for it, if that is connected, then the bov is probably stuck, just dismantle it, clean it all up and rub any marks or rough spots with 1000 grit wet and dry sandpaper.

i think that is correct, possibly the late model r32 gtr's all have brembos, but they could all be v specs

Try putting a pod filter on it this should give you the desired result, if not then you will have to fit an adjustable recirculating blow off valve and set it up with some extra preload. Backspin is what YOU want to hear, and this is the way to achieve it.

Does a fpr that does not increase with boost exist?Ive only heard of this on new mazda's which only have one fuel line, but i dont know about the turbod ones.

1:1 isn't rising rate, malpassi rising rate are 1.7:1 or 2:1, although they do make an adjustable 1:1 fpr, hope this helps.

I have a 12 psi brand new actuator which came with an otomoto turbo, i fitted an rb25 actuator, to reduce the boost for the application, im after $100 posted

Im also doing this, hoping for 475Rwkw, not to dissuade you, but if your not mechanically minded, it will be a very expensive exercise to pay someone to do the complete conversion.

Thats an internal wastegate, this means that the "flap" that controlls the boost pressure is in the turbo exhaust housing, its just that your dump pipe has a separate pipe for these gasses, why would you wast to run an external gate, it is possible, although the whole job would be fairly expensive(probably $1200) and gain you no power, and maybe a defect too if you have it venting to the air.

It is not the wrong bov, you may need to reduce the preload, does it never blow off?

No, unless the old pump was shagged and making it run lean.

You shouldn't as long as it wasn't tuned compensating for a leaking or badly adjusted bov.Now you can enjoy the better idle, general running and fuel economy. PS i assume you were running an air flow meter.

Thet a nice gain in midrange

There is the chance that you will lose, a prelude 2.2 vtec in a lightened civic with some careful mods would run some good numbers.

guys, dont forget there are plenty of "all motor" n/a civics doing 10s in the states, i would guess that is quicker than 97% of cars on this forum.

Usually the coil wont break down until its on boost, i would try, gapping the plugs to .8 and have a good look at the coils, maybe it just has the wrong plugs.

Was it the same mixturs at both boost levels?, I doubt it is the intercooler and piping, it would have to be pretty bad to lose that sort of power, i would be looking at the ign table, you could do a run on 12psi on the street, datalog the load cells, then do one at 16psi,look at how much timing has been removed to allow for the extra boost, should only be about 4deg, you can measure pressure drop in the intercooler system with a boost gauge, hook it up to the manifold and see how high it goes, then connect it to the compressor housing, should only see 1 psi difference. oh and its a bit rich, 12.2 should be fine for that power level.

"Torque is where its at baby yeah!" One of the smartest things i have heard on sau

Or the fuel pressur regulator, I once built a SR20 datto 1600 show car for a customer, with a tough motor, he took it away, and got the fuel rail and regulator chromed after it left the shop, put it back together and the diaphram in the reg had torn, filling the engine with fuel through the vacuum line, bending two conrods.

I remember years ago in a ff&r* a turbocharged pulsar SSS where the journalist said that he did a standing start 5th gear burnout, which i dont really think is possible, you may need get an r34 gtr 6 speed if you want to beat that. *I do not endorse the reading of FF&R

Or pro Engines(www.proengines.com.au)$165 or $330 fitted, although i have been trying to get one off them for a little while, they are a bit slack at answering emails

Thanks, but im 100% sure early R32 gtr's are push type, at least in the three i have done.

I would guess that if the turbo was being boosted without oil long enough for the engine to run out of oil and seize the camshaft, the turbo will be shagged, and thet may be the least of your problems, for the $150 or so, i would rip the sump off and have a quick look at the bearings

Wouldn't that mean less voltage? If you had an air leak in the intercooler piping, or a venting bov opening, the afm voltage will go high, as will turbo speed.