SirRacer

Why buy an exorbitantly priced RIPS engine when you can build you thats easily as good locally and for probably much cheaper? Spoolup can sell you half the parts here. Its all in this thread. I looked into the PFC for ages also and its probably much easier to change the computer. A link G3 computer with wasted spark is a great setup at half the power fc price, simply as you wont find a 32power fc computer, and modifying a 33 one is lots of unknowns

thats strange, the block is the same size as the rest of the rb's, just a little taller any idiot should be able to either lower mounts, or otherwise why dont you just cut the insides out of the bonnet. my rb30 with a 25de head with stock plenum shuts in a cefiro on the stock bonnet

the workshop who tunes the rips engines runs them in on the dyno before doing full power runs. no 1000 kms here!

Im not very good with crank horsepower as it doesnt mean shit to me, but personally i wouldnt bother opening up the engine so your going to save a bit of costs there. If it does go bang rebuild it with forged bits. Personally i dont think you will have any issues with it. They run 9.1 comp ratio which is nice and high, so in my opinion run a gt3076 (.82) with upgraded injectors, pump etc and a good computer without an afm A friend here is running 270kws at 14psi on a stock as a rock rb25 so its very doable. Start off with running that turbo on the standard exhaust housing and i think that should get near your power goals without being that expensive.

its in all of the previous pages dude, you just need to do a search. ive gone .82 which seems to be a good mix, however ill be upgrading soon as im going to go for maximum power so ill post up some before and after dyno results

Sorry mate, was doing a search on some information i was after and didnt realise how old it was. The engine is in a cefiro so there is a little bit more room, but yeah it was relatively easy. The hardest part was getting some of the loom clips unattached. We have done quite a number now so they are getting easy. Say a shop is charging 95 per hour, its effectively taking 10 hours to remove the thing when someone whos very average with a spanner set (i work in a bank) is doing it in way less.

I dont see how you guys are factoring 1000-1500 for pulling out the engine. Its simply rediculous. The last one i did in a garage (no hoist) and a shitty hire crane we had the engine ready to be removed in under an hour. It took another 15 mins to get the thing out as it was a little bit of a mission angle wise. Im getting my block and head rebuilt next week so will be able to add in some other prices but i think some of the comments here are pretty rediculous. Just because its an expensive job doesnt mean its any good. Parts so far anyway (most were on a discount admittedly) Bearings (acl race) + head rebuild kit incl tensioners 627.00 Cambelt 50.00 Crank collar 120.00 Water pump (rb30) 27.00 Restrictor 15.00 Bearings (pistons are near new) 247.00 I cant see how even if i get forged pistons & rods (2500 ono) and a Jun pump (600) its going to cost another 7k to rebuild the engine?

ACL DONT MAKE THEM

im with duncan on this one, however the bellhousings are easy to change so its hard to tell. im running a 33 box with 32gtr bellhousing. the z32 boxes apparently have the same gearbox so dont be worried either way. i dont know re teh z31

my 20e trans lasted about 8 months before it started slipping behind an na rb30e. that was doing lots of burnouts so it would normally have lasted longer

Hey Shaun, As ive mentioned in PM RIPS the NZ RB tuner (thats all he does really) has told me to route the return to the front of the engine and take the water from the piece on the block near #5 cylinder. What you have done is basically just route the water return in a little earlier. I wouldnt think that would have made a massive difference however as the rb20/25's run their water returns there stock (i didnt know that until the other day). Quite a few people have this wrong so its not a bad mistake at all. The post by discopotato above is bang on!

there are loom diagrams on here somewhere and there are only a few minor differences between the 2 looms, so i think with a little bit of tweaking you could run your stock loom

Hey there, Just wondering whether anyone here has the information for the torque settings when rebuilding an rb25de (r32 series). I have the engine manual but it only gives information on rebuilding the block and not the head (unless i just have completely missed it. If anyone has them for an rb30 block that would also be appreciated. Thanks Byron

Acl have told me on numerous occasions they dont make acl race pistons to run a reasonable comp ratio for an rb30

A guy here in nz www.japaneseperformance.co.nz run over 400rwkws on one. It ran 10.6 at a reasonable mile an hour so even with a generous dyno it would be 360rwkws + 1/4 Mile time is on performancecar.co.nz

what model acl race pistons as most of them work out with horrible compressions without serious block or piston work. i spent ages researching that and ended up running a set of stockers with new nissan rings.

I get what your saying and ideally plumbing the return into the radiator would be a good idea, however for the majority of us running stock radiators this isnt really an options. For me it comes down to a case of below the plenum or around the back of the head. The way routing the line around the back of the head is more asthetically pleasing however the more logical way would be to run it around the front, where access is easy should anything need checking. If or when i do go to an aftermarket radiator i will contemplate a fitting going into the top as i can then tidy things up somewhat, and avoid having a line running around the front of the engine.

i think they are the same from memory

s13 ca auto one fits there is heaps of information on how to make a plate up for it on www.d1nz.org.nz cheers

Classic length on a skyline regardless of 4dr or 2dr is the same and i think the cefiros and laurels are quite similar also so thats positive. Ive got both a skyline and cefiro driveshaft downstairs so will compare them and post up for everyones reference. Cheers

Hey Joel, I think i read under the cefiros section that its simply just a chop and weld job, with no additional length cut off? Thanks Byron

After speaking to a guy who makes radiators for a living, i can confirm that the bottom of the radiator (as per discopotatos comments) is in fact the colder piece of the two, and the top is the hot side. So in theory the thermostat is regulating cold water into the engine so plumbing the hot turbo water in there is a big no no. Ive heard people taking their feeds from the back of the engine. In theory this is wrong as the cold water is pumped into the bottom of the block (where the feed taps from) and then passes through the head and then is returned through below the plenum. The hose in question runs from the back of the head. Plumbing it (outlet) into the water hoses at the back of the engine or into the water outlet on the plenum will effectively do the same thing, however plumbing it into the plenum is going to be better because the hose is in view and easy to access should anything go wrong, and also we arent recirculating more hot water into the engine. Ive attached 2 pictures of how RIPS in NZ does things and also the standard rb20det. It took me a while to get hold of this as i had no access to a stock turbo car, nor had my engine with me. I hope it answers a few questions about water lines on an rb**det

Thanks Shaun for your pictures today via pm. A well known RB NZ tuner has emailed me back today (i sent the email a while back) and informed me that he plumbs the turbo outlet into the front of the engine. Just makes for a completely different perspective on things. I had a look through the GTR manual last night and couldnt find anything really in there. 300 odd pages of it though doesnt make for the most interesting reading.

Heres an email from Rob at Rips in NZ www.ripsltd.com who builds the occasional Rb30 Hi, I pick up water from the back of the block on the turbo side and return the water from the turbo to the front of the plenim, see pix. Regards Rob Is the thermostat housing where the water goes out of once its finished in the engine, or is this the point where it is taken from? Have attached picture for everyones info

Im normally half intelligent but im mixing things up here. Have replied in bold