urtwhistle

See here's the thing, that tune was done by a very very reputable tuner here in the west and not me. The car has barely been driven since the motor went in. And seriously comments like the below message are completely useless. When I asked for a POV I was hinting towards a constructive POV. "STOP.Read the second post.....do as he says I'm done " The car IS going to a tuner, just not the same 1 as the 1st tune. But like any normal person I wanted to put some km's on the clock and make sure it wasn't going dump all of it's oil on their floor. The car has not been taken over 4500rpm since the rebuild for obvious reasons. and in theory the tune should not have been too far off between the new and old motor as there has only been a minor change in builds. DALE to answer your questions. Consider the rate of throttle change as you go WOT - might be the accel enrich values giving it a load of fuel that can't burn and causes momentary misfire. Also attention to the simple things - new engine, new spark plugs and suitably gapped. Clean coil packs that are known good units. The spark plugs are good old NGK copper's and had about 1000k's on them whilst in the old motor and gapped at abou 1- 0.9mm, coils were cleaned whilst the motor was apart. I swapped the coils out for a spare set whilst on the old motor and they were fine at that point. The head was left completely untouched between the 2 motors. I will pull the plugs out and replace them for a new set since there so cheap. Something I'd consider fairly important - do you know what the CR is? Neo heads are reputedly running smaller chambers, so the combination of head, pistons (what spec?), and decked block may have implications for what you should target with this engine. Mahle 8.5:1 pistons, I beleive the compression would be close to 9:1 with the decked block and the neo head. The compression is where I think part of the issue is but not completely. The base timing was set correctly to what I was reading logging in FCEDIT but will double check just incase. if it is wrong then I will fix it and log the car again. If not then I will remove 2/3 degree's like mentioned. What about VTC setting, was that set wrong from the start? I would have throught that it should have been 4700 not 7400 Quote It appears to be leaner in the cruise and part throttle sections of the map and rich as all hell in the higher load sections. The cruise area of a map is actually quite small, and really only needs target AFR of 14.9-15.0 It looks way too lean in way too many cells for my liking. In the 2000rpm range it's almost ridiculously lean. Looks like you should be progressively putting a good deal more fuel into the sections as it's coming into boost. At load point 8 I'd be targeting 13.2 - 13.5 AFR, and at point 10 more like 12.8-13.0. Then quickly down into 12.2 by point 15, and 11.8-12.0 anywhere below that. Sit down and have a good look at your target AFR in the various load and engine speed ranges. Do you have access to the fuel map correction spreadsheet/calculator? Too little fuel will cause as many issues as too much, but just different ones. Don't be afraid to have a go, but you may need to get a better handle on what is required. This is also some thing that I was concerned about. I thought it was massivly too lean from what I would have expected. What calculator are you refering to? I was going to write a simple spread sheet, but if some 1 has already written 1. I would love you to point me in tthe direction of it. My last question which might be obvious to other's Why would I be getting blank cells on my load log. or should I just ignore that part.

Hi guys, I'm having some issues with my new Rb30 that I have just rebuilt. When ever I hit 4000rpm and pull WOT it starts missing, whether I go WOT from 2000rpm or slowly ease it upto 4000 and breifly go WOT it still misses. Please see the attached Power FC .DAT file, a data log, and screen shots of map watch. 10.zip The attached tune was from my first rb30 before it did a big end which made 370rwhp. The specs are NEO head, standard cams, GT3576 turbo. The only things that I can think of that have changed is that it now has higher compression from having 20thou taken off the deck height, therefore 0 deck height. Timing could be slightly out. I noticed that the tune had the VTC setting was set at 7400. I have changed that to 4700. (maybe I should set it back to 7400 until its retuned) It appears to be leaner in the cruise and part throttle sections of the map and rich as all hell in the higher load sections. 1 odd thing I would like to point out is that on the screen shot of the load map trace. it has some cells that are highlighted but no values. Any help would be greatly appreciated. regards Chris

Personally if I was to build mine again. I would buy 1 from R.I.P.S in New Zealand. It appear more expensive to start with but it really is actually quite reasonable. And there quality and results speak for them selves.

If I was doing it I would go the MS, it's cheaper and by the time it rust's out you will have long since sold the car or upgraded it further.

interesting, let me guess this hyperdrives dyno or ovaboost. forget comparing dyno output's from eastern states dyno's if it is on either of those 2. My old 34 barely made 290hp on hyperdrives yet cars with the same turbo on the east coast were making 350 or some thing silly and my R34 with a RB3025 running a GT3576 made only 370. I have also seen a r33 on hyperdrive's dyno make about the same as yours with a proper GT3071 so it just reads super low compared to other machines. So what I would suggest is throw the dyno sheet in the bin and take it down the 1/4 mile. As long as it pulls like 14 yo school boy you should be happy.

Use a die grinder with either a round or taper burr

screw that lol, My theory was that if it hasn't come off in 15 years of abuse and or a quick sweep than it sure as hell ain coming off with the oil washing past it. although yours looks alot nicer than mine

I spent maybe an hour if that, with a tapered burr. I mainly focused on removing the burr's from where the casting joints had not been removed. Its by no means polished but just a quick sweep across the surface removing the loose crap.

unless you go liquid injection forget about it before you even start. I wish I had waited another year before I did it. Your best bet is to look on the XR6Turbo forums as there are some decent powered 1's floating around.

you did exactly what I did. its amazing the amount of loose casting there is on there

you can also source oil heaters to from hydraulics suppliers like PHC (perth hydraulic centre)

I love outside the box thinking. if no 1 ever had crazy idea's we would still be on horseback. But from what I can think of it would be just too big and over complicated unless it was on some form of stationary motor like a big genset. I think you would be better off running a bigger dump and modding the turbine housing with a CO2 jet plumbed up to it so that it pre spools the turbo. Sort of like how RIP'S has his drag car.

Hey guys I haven't got any experience with dry sumped cars but I do have experience with industrial hydraulics and think your over engineering and overlooking a simple fix. That is IF the oil filter was still in the original position on the block. Please correct me if my understanding is wrong but is your setup like the circuit in the top sketch? If you were to able to run 2 thermostat's you would be able to quickly heat enough oil to circulate and not damage the motor and as the motor keeps heating it would slowly start purging into the sump whilst heating that too. A very simplistic view of it but it might just work. Chris

the only problem with the xr5's is the price to mod them. since they were only delivered to Aus not so many of the focus parts are universal to them. From what I could tell in the 5 mins I looked for my GF's car.

the only problem with the xr5's is the price to mod them. since they were only delivered to Aus not so many of the focus parts are universal to them. From what I could tell in the 5 mins I looked for my GF's car.

or a hypergear GT3576 like mine. very nice on my Rb30

+1 for the XR5. those Volvo 5 cylinders have a wicked bark at full noise. esp when you get some heat into the exhaust they get a wicked burble/crackle on over-run

another +1 for Techedge gear. mine works a treat

cheers for the heads up

Does any 1 actaully know Who will sell Yazaki parts in Australia? I found the part numbers but not a supplyer

Snap-on or Blupoint or even Westrac branded tools IF you are using the tools all day every day and could get away with using them as a tax right off. if not I love the good old medium range Sidchrome gear. 1 thing that I highly suggest is a decent quality impact socket set. in 6 not 12 point. PS if you want some really good gear and don't wanna pay aussy prices or have access to freight coming out of Singapore. I highly recommend Promax USA tools, if people want the addy to the supplier I'll add it later. The impact gear works out atleast half the price of buying in Perth depending on if I airfreight or seafreight them. But might not be worthwhile to most people unless your buying big sockets in like 3/4" to 2 1/2" drive gear like I do for my work.

I have the JJR radiator in my R34 and I have had issues with keep it cool ever ever since it went on. If it gets turned into a track weekend warrior I will be ripping it out and putting a stock 1 into it.

Wow 8th, I thought my old 30 was bad with it's 6.5tho. are you running like a million psi with nitrous and methanol? I would have thought 4tho would be more on the money.

Ahhh fair call Dobz, they might be slightly shorter but there is still probably 2 threads past the nut when its done up.

the problem is that you then have to cut the thread down. Just use SR20 bolts like every 1 else.