LTHLRB

im not really one to recommend disc machining unless the customer requests it. do you have slotted rotors? machining usually costs around 30 - 40 bucks plus removal of discs to be sent away. machining is the cheap way out of it, if the discs are warped id personally throw on a new set, if you're not running high quality slotted/drilled discs then a pair of front discs wont be costly at all. plus its brand new!

to keep 300kw on the ground without melting your tyres is to use softer compound 255 wide tyres or semi slicks. Minimal amounts of camber because you want the full face of the tyre on the road and softer damper settings as you want the ass end to squat and put weight onto the rear tyres. Anything less with a 300kw responsive setup you'll be the frymaster of the streets

go the solid subframe bushes. also replace every other bush in sight in the rear end with polyurethane bushes. whiteline swaybar/links and bush kit also. Run rose jointed suspension arms (gk tech have a variety) and also a hicas lock bar

have you had a look at your fuel filter? its a long shot but it may be blocked. also did you have your foot on the accelerator when cranking to give it a little more juice on crank? how do the spark plug tips look?

bc and nitto strokers seem to be the fashion these days and are reasonably priced and alot of guys sell them. but the term "budget" and "stroker kit" dont seem very fitting in the same sentence together. Personally id go either the bc or nitto kits. spool make some good stuff also, but its what you find best suited to you. what power are you aiming for and what is the car being used for?

it isnt actually knocking or "pinging". its because your engine is at such a high rev range and when it does the limiter cut your knock sensor will pick it up as "knock" it will always display high than usual knock readings when on the rev limiter.. its when you pick up high levels of knock when you're climbing the rev range you should be worried.

most new age ecu's are more than capable. most of them have the same or similar features and tunability. like XKLABA said it comes down to the dude writing your maps on the ecu. it comes down to your budget. E85 is just a fuel you can tune most ecu's to, so a not so modern ecu (like power fc) is capable of being tuned on E85 without any problems. but it all comes down to who is tuning it and what he/she prefers to use (any good tuner can tune just about anything and not be umming and ahhhing over a different ecu) and what your budget is.

still got the dvds?

calm down pal

the stock GTR intake manifold is plenty for a street setup

It is a GTR with a nitto RB32 stroker, a 26 head, a TH400 3spd auto and its insanely fast. Thats what it is

thats just the suspension doing its thang. they wheels will move depending on what the rear end is doing. hicas kind of cancels out the drift. its ment to keep the car in line, not sideways

I'd never go to the track with a stock ecu on a RB25DET thats been boosted. I melted a couple pistons on the street with my old RB25 running 12psi. Put in an unopened engine with an ecu and a good tune been making 300+kw for around 6 years and ringed the absolute neck of the RB and it hasnt even had a missfire. A vehicles tune is a make or break sort of thing.

sounds good. I need something to hold up and not fade within a couple of hard laps. Ill be using them with the PMU discs

Oooohhh if I get my brake pads and stuff in and fitted before the event then i'm IN. Membership sent in Edit: Who's used the Project MU Club racer carbon/ceramic pads?

This is why I will be applying for my sau vic membership this week ash. Iv been itching to get amongst it all now that I no longer drift. Fun times ahead! Whens the next round ash?

I've never done circuit racing before and i got roped into doing this 6hr thing with a few blokes i know. Iv drifted the car heaps of times with zero cooling issues. Gotta hit up a winton fun day to get a taste of this circuit racing people speak of. Excited to say the least

You can run an adjustable exhaust cam gear with stock cams, which will give you an improvement in mid range power. But as a mechanic id never fit cams without putting in heavy duty valve springs. It pretty much goes hand in hand. You want cams, you must fit valve springs. Yes the HKS cams are drop in meaning they'll be ok to use with your stock valvetrain/head (excluding valve springs) The stock springs wont cope with the duration/lift of the HKS cams.

I wouldn't recommend running any sort of aftermarket or higher lift cam on stock springs. Contact Jesse Streeter - [email protected] - i got my hks cams from there.

Is anybody off SAU doing the Phillip Island 6hr race in august?

Basically. Get the cooling spot on, Oil control and reliability spot on, Suspension and steering spot on then when you can confidently drive it in the red all day long (7,000rpm) and pull big entrys.. then you put more power into it. Your coight will pucker when you're 3rd pinned about to initiate your entry at winton before the last s bends. Thats without much power.

How long has he been drifting for?

Forged pistons, RB26 or just balance and shot peen stock rods, Nissan or ACL bearings, Metal head gasket, N1 oil pump with Billet gears if you dont want to go a good oil pump, Head drain/return, IF he's building a dedicated drift car id go a larger baffled sump ASR or Hi Energy. What power figures is he after also how reliable does he want the setup to be?

link to video. i want to inspect this movement

Alot of sau goers are deca/motorkhana guys and circuit racing guys. But you'll find a few guys here n there that drift. Matsuri should be awesome. Id love to build a matsuri spec car and ring its neck all weekend