aDrew_C

Done! Was very happy with how the whole process went. Tony couldn't have made it any easier for me. The turbo arrived on time and in perfect as new condition. I wouldn't hesitate buying from him again just because he's in the US, I've had far worse transactions with people who live within 100km of me.

Not while you're still using an AFM.

Most people are way too conservative with offset. 33's can definitely fit +20 9.5" rims at the rear and +20 8.5-9 at the front with guard work and it will look a huge deal better than +35 and above offsets. Just don't run bulgy oversized tyres. 265-275 for 10", 255-265 for 9.5", 235-245 for 9", 235-225 for 8.5", 225-215 for 8". Any lower width and the rims are no good for a turbo skyline.

Hey mate have you got a standard 33 airfilter box?

I'm going HKS GT 2835 Pro S on an RB25 as well and for cams have been told to keep the lift as low as possible if response is a concern. I think I'll stick with the 256 degree 8.5mm lift tomeis from nengun, good price too. HKS are 8.8mm lift and a bit more expensive.

I'm looking at getting this done soon. Basically for response without buying cams you've got; bigger exhaust valves + valve springs, light clean up of the head, exhaust adj cam wheel and increase the compression.

The head is gone right? How about the intake side, are you selling that?

No need if he has a R200 longnose, rebuild the thing and tighten it up. They're great diffs, 2-way mechanical, just very lose from factory.

I bought SSR Konigs, lot's of different styles, some have the bolts on their own seperate polished flat bit like those OZ imitations above, whereas mine are through the spokes as they taper in. There's also a newer style without the stepped lip, not as old school and look a bit out of place imo. Would look great on a 32, not easy to find this style though, mine are 18x8.5 +17 and 18x9.5 +19, perfect for a 31 and would fit a 32 with pumped guards. Seems hard to find the ones with the stepped lip though.

Thanks mate I'm thinking about getting my 34 neo turbo highflowed soon, for $800 the price sure sounds like what I'm after

If you drive your car on the road do not go with solid bushes. Get some noltec or any good urethane bushes.

http://www.r31house.co.jp/season2/stock.ph...t=det&no=37 Yay or nay? What about with a standardish RB20?

I can't remeber exactly what my GTS-T bov looked like exactly, but the GTR one is definitely larger and more flat on top rather than the upside down dinner plateish thing the GTS-t has, also has a bigger outlet iirc. Anyway it's not just a GTST bov with a stronger spring, looks quite different.

Wow, they need to learn how to crop images... Kinda wondering what the "altered spring rates" means, better not be "softer to suit australian conditions", aka we have shit roads, blah.

pm'd

Wait, Hiro Nakamura was the Chief Creative? No wonder the cars so ahead of the curve....

Dual rear sway bars is a good cheap upgrade for drift if you can pick up a sway bar at the wreckers... 31 turbos can go for as low as $2500 I guess.... seen some really nice ones for 5k. Model doesn't matter much, the S3 looks "newer" and has the sexy hotplate rear lights but other than the auto trans not much changed between models, and obviously you'd want manual.

If you're lucky enough to find one get a R34 neo turbo, comes with the VG30 sized larger rear housing but a nylon compressor wheel meant I didn't notice any lag compared to my S1. I made 4kw more at 10psi compared to 12psi on the S1 R33 turbo. They go for $400-450.

Huh? AWD gets more power to the ground but is heavier upfront and overall. RWD is less traction but lighter, cheaper and good for all forms of motorsport. If you didn't already know that then you don't know what you're getting into trying to do a drivetrain conversion, a GTR halfcut will not give you everything you need.

It's a very hard job mate, not to mention all the other GTR extras that you won't have. RWD is your best bet really, you can just cut and weld up the 26 box, it's no different to the 25 box besides the extra stuff fr awd.

Buy some 8.5-9.5" fronts with +22-25 offset and rears 9.5-10.5 +22-25. Take away 5-10 on the offset for the lower widths I mentioned if you really want them to stick out from the guards. Good to see the new skylines favouring low offset again. Dish ftw.

They'll still rev fine to 7k... they're similar to a 2j in that regard.. both are held back by harmonics at this point and making them rev harder is big $$ Anyway, RB30 ftw. They're not just for big power, I know a lot of big power people with 26's making over 800hp, not fun cars to drive. 30 bottom end is practical torque. It doesn't cost stuff all more than building a 25, if you actually want more torque and don't strongly consider it you're obviously not facing reality and have some sort of dirty image whenever someone says RB30 stuck in your head.

I've got 235/40 on my front 18x8.5's and 255's on my 18x9.5's. It works really well for me, only a slight undersize on both, which is not considered stretch. I'd recommend 265/35's for you, or you could go 275/35's if you don't have guard issues.

What's the best/cheapest place to buy, so far nengun, can't find many places though. I thought a trader on here might sell them but no luck... Thanks

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nordschleife_fastest_lap_times GTR-Vspec time so far is at 7:25