45ULT

yeah thats the cheaper alternative using a ef falcon sensor and cutting the electrical plug off your old one. hardest part is trying to solder stainless wire..

mines a fiberglass copy designed for a gtr and with a bit of modification fits quite neatly

you'll find that most if not all skylines came out with bosch O2 sensors from factory..

20 for the fan

her name is Lee not Lisa

thanks again everyone it was a good day.. :sorcerer:

thanks everyone for your wishes..

yeah i've done some work for J A auto care jorge is a really good bloke and knows his stuff when i comes to nissans, and also pretty much any import..

i thought yours was non-turbo??? lol thats ok just steer with the rear.. ohhh shiiittt

what you gonna use to steer the skidline with??

here is another new one, sorry wrong account/

I think you're refering to Phil's maroon r33 number plates NIS-33 that is one awesome car, he lives across the road from my mate.

yeah thats true rb20 computers seem to be a lot dumber than rb25 ones. yeah that was with the standard afm.

yep thats what i got told to set it to by the guy who tuned it.

its very possible i got 244kw at the wheels from a rb20 with safcII and bigger turbo. safc only modifies the airflow meter signal going into the ecu. so u can only tune it within the scope of the standard fuel maps. it does not change the ignition timing directly, as u can do with a power fc

its not the higher octane that leans the af's out but more so the 5% ethanol in v power racing. u have to run your car slightly richer when using ethanol but the bonus is u can run alot more timing hence make more power. this has been proven using 2 different fuels both 98ron however one was e10 and the other had no ethonol. the e10 ended up making 30kw more power after a re-tune on the same boost. so if u have the stock computer then definitely run V power racing it'll only make things better. however if u have had the af's changed i'd recomend getting them checked with the V power racing fuel to make sure they're safe.

yeah got a dyno graph i'll scan it and put it up. but it only have power against boost, no af. we actually had to take out fuel over most of the map as the factory computers just dump the fuel in as a safety measure. we tried addiing more fuel at the top but it didn't help which is how we know its the injectors. set ur fuel reg to 40psi as the base pressure. i ended up turning mine down to about 15-16psi on high boost for the street just to be safe

i'd be careful with the headbolts especially, as they have to be a certain type as the torque settings account for the factory bolts stretching when torqued. I personally wouldn't risk it on something so important as the headgasket.

with my t3/t4 turbo i got 327hp with stock injectors and a cheap FPR. Injectors reached 100% just before redline and a/f's went to around 12.7-13:1 can't quite remember.. the turbo has a .63 exhaust and a .5 or .55 front again can't remember. this was with an safcII aswell. And also 18psi

try the Gates belt part number t866 its a multi-use belt so it doesnt have the timing marks but its the right size and is off the shelf at most parts stores

hey i'm after a coil pack loom for a rb25det. needs to be a series 1 and need it rather urgently. thanks

im after a airflow meter plug with part of the wires attached. it can be either an rb20 or 25 series 1 or 2. not a z32 one tho. need it asap. thanks

yeah the main reason for running in an engine is to make sure the new rings bed into the honed cylinder walls properly. so basicly by varying the speed at which the engine runs places different loads on the rings compared to just sitting at one speed with not much load as this will glaze ur cylinders. so if ur really keen take it for a mountain run but still keep the revs to around max 4 grand or so. this loads up the rings nicely as ur constantly on and off the throttle as well as loading and un loading the rings.

hey mate willing to separate the series 1 engine wiring loom? need one asap thanks

bump. anyone got one. need one asap