skylinecouple

The only reason Greddy or others make those pipes is due to fitting up to stock or almost stock turbo combinations. Still no excuse though, The quicker the hot air expands into a larger pipe the better off you will be. I have spent considerable time confirming the differences between a 3" pipe and 3.5" pipe and there is definately power and more importantly quicker boost to be had in a larger pipe. I will also tell you I am running a Garrett 3071 .82 housing which is considered the equivalent of the HKS turbo you have. If it were me I would replace the whole front pipe with 3.5" and know it won't be held back. I have seen other results where the cat back was changed to 3.5 from 3" and power increased. The whole idea of exhaust gas cooling after the cat is rediculous from a heat perspective. True, the exhaust manifold can glow red with heat while the exhaust doesn't while under load but the fact is, the exhaust is on it's way to glowing if the revs and load on the engine are kept up. And just because the exhaust itself isn't glowing doesn't mean it isn't bloody hot. That's how the cat works, by holding the various poisonous gasses a little longer and burning the shit out of them till there is less of it going into the atmosphere. Get into the big Ford turbo forums and see the warning on exhaust size after 260rwkws. It must be 3.5" or better. Get this right, you will still do well with a 3" but best efficientcy is at 3.5". In the States especially there are so many bigger power cars having to go to 3.5" exhausts. P.S: your dump pipe is crap, no, I mean it is really crap. Like whoa, that is sooooo........CRAP.

These should also fit R32 but not sure. Italian black leather with red stitching. Easy 20min to fit. Make your interior like new again. I am in Campbelltown, call 0412662337. Or $9.00 to post. $40.00 per set of 1 x Gear boot & 1 x handbrake cover.

one set sold. One left.

I had to put new plugs in so thought I'd get a couple of extra sets for someone else. These are brand new and I have checked the gap which is .8mm because as most of you know it is not recommended to change the gap on Platinum or Iridium plugs. $15.00 each, $90 for set of 6, plus it should be around $9.00 for postage. Only 2 sets of six but I can get more if interest is there. PM or call me on 0412662337. In Campbelltown.

I sold the last ones I had pretty quickly and thought I'd get a couple more. Have one set of Black Gear boot and Handbrake cover with red stitching. Sold as kit and easy 20min install. Makes your interior look new. And for something a little different, a Carbon look Console cover with red stitching. Very high quality in both items. Gear boot and Handbrake cover = $40 Console cover = $50 Postage anywhere at buyers expence but will usually be around $9.00. PM or call me 0412662337 or SMS.

I have another order coming through as so many people want them. If your keen just let me know. $40 plus postage. Stitching can be red or blue. Can do Nismo insignia as well but they are $70. Regards, Gary.

Second set sold pending payment.

No worries Mark, sorry I didn't have more time for you but I am supposed to be working. Amazing what a difference new covers make isn't it ? Feels like a new car. One set sold and one set left.

I bought these from England and was going to use one set for myself and sell the other to a friend. He has just decided to strip the car and rebuild it so won't need these for a while. Description: Black Italian leather gear boot and handbrake cover. Red stitching. Perfect match for series 2 steering wheel. Gearboot clips into place as per original and handbrake cover already has wire frame to clip into place. Around 20min work for even the most unskilled. $40.00 per set.I bought the same ones around five years earlier with the Nismo emboidery and still perfect. Call me or post,PM. 0412662337

If there are no prices I'll assume the gearboxes are too expensive. In other words, what's the price ? Just having a joke but the rules clearly state there must be prices with the parts. I guess because it saves ten thousand posts clogging up the system asking the same questions over and over again. I need a gearbox as mine has done 280,000k's. The bearing noise is getting annoying. You have two, can I have a price please ?

Concidering the price difference, would I buy a new GTR R35 or build something to your standard ? I'll build a car like yours any day. Congratulations. Very rarely do I make comment on other peoples cars as it is so subjective to taste. You sir have done well. I am not going to tell you what to change or even suggest, but my own taste would lean towards a tougher set of very light weight deep dish wheels. But that's just me. I don't like chrome. Normally I would not go for grey or charcoal but the Supra shape needs that sophistication as it looks more Porsche like.

My toes are slim and athletic from years of wiggling and drooling.

Come on !! You're kidding me. There are so many possibilities for a joke here I just don't know where to start. So I'll try to be serious and just say that perhaps a you should sit on your lounge at home and take your shoes off. See that thing at the end of your leg ? That's a foot. Now, see the little sausage type thingy jiggys coming off your foot ? They're toes. OK, try if you can to wiggle your toes. Good, good. Do that every night for a week and when you have full control of the nerves from your brain to your toes just take a full day off and rest. Ok, here we go, the big day. I want you to see if you can control the movement of your right foot. Woe, woe, easy now, it may be a little out of control at first since you have never tied to control it before. Try some small rotations at first then after a month or so build up to some up down movements. I find hanging your tongue out of your mouth may help stabilise the whole area though drooling can be a problem. Give this maybe twelve months and only then will the nerves between your brain and foot be fully functional. You may now grab the keys to your new Hyundai Getz and try to drive like a member of the human race.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, learn the art of tuning your own car. Get a wideband for $350 from the States and go for it. Read, learn adjust then read some more and so on. You'll pick it up. Sure, get a good tuner to do the basics on setup but fine tune yourself. The results will amaze you. Power Fc wins in the home tuner sector but I am just looking at the Vipec or something similar with self tuning mode and better control over the whole process.

If we could have an idea of the power it was making when the turbo let go it may help. If it really came on hard then perhaps the way boost is measured may be wrong. Can you be sure it didn't let go at 20lbs of boost ? not to mention the lack of tuning as I could well imagine the exhaust heat in a lean engine at 20lbs.

I just put 2 x Falken Azenis 615 semi's on the front. I know a lot of people have said they aren't true semi's and to be honest that's why I put them on. I wanted to take a leap forward from a standard road tyre but not to something that would last a week. Let me tell you these things are simply awesome. I previously had Toyo Proxy 4's which though not a true performance tyre leaves Federal 595 for dead. However the Falkens are just so good. They are quiet enough and warm up just like any street tyre, they are better than the Proxies in the wet that's for sure. Dry weather grip is so good I need a track day to find their limit. Not to mention the side wall stiffness is a 50% increase and therefore the response in steering is much, much quicker.

Well, after installing my Jim Berry clutch I figured I'd better jump on the bandwagon. Guys, if you ever do one decent mod to your car, get the Full Monty. Drives so much like stock I almost wanted to rip it out cause I thought it was defective. I don't ever recall my standard clutch being that light. Oh, ok, it takes up as quick as the Exedy cushioned button I had in it but after the initial run in period it is just perfect. Money well spent. At first I was dissapointed when I put the money into Jim's account and half an hour later I get a phone call from someone to say he has a twin plate for me. But as I said, I am so glad fate made things work out the way they did. Take my word for it, spend the money, get a Full Monty.

Can I ask, if you have to take the car to be tuned every time a mod is done and it costs x amount of dollars to do so, why not spend the money on a wide band oxygen sensor and laptop with the appropriate software and learn to do it yourself ? It is part of the whole experience of ownership. You are obviously on a long voyage of discovery here so believe in yourself and do it. If you had the car for a few years and maybe this was the last year of owning it I'd say go ahead and pay someone. This does not seem like the case though so I just hope you don't find yourself in a couple of years wishing you had started to learn the tuning process starting today. My experience ? Nobody will tune your car as well as you can given enough time. It is your pride and joy, imagine every cell tuned to perfection and it didn't cost you any more than a hired dyno.

My God but I miss the forums sometimes. This reminds me of my youth when I used to have a 56 Chev and a big block. There would be 20 of us standng around in the Shell garage at two in the morning arguing over anything from cams to carbs or does Mickey Thompson really exist. "ALL" the factors mentioned have an impact on tuning, cold, hot, or dense air. Cold, hot or dense fuel. What pistons or cams or ignition system one uses. Every engine is different and should be tuned as such. As the engine is broken in or accumulates the K's it will need a change in it's tune, it' OK, your both right.

mmmmmm..............burnt Skyline in the mornin', go to muffler shop, pay $20 and stop your car from burning to the ground. One cut, trim the pipe to an angle then reweld.

I have the 3071 with .82 housing and can honestly say it spools like my old GCG hi-flow. I would strongly suggest you learn to tune the ignition side of the PFC before you give up on the turbo you have. I can not stress enough how even the best tuners will not do a truly thorough job in the low load areas. Especially coming on to boost and conseqently your response in this area will suffer badly. It has taken me some time to perfect my tune and I have done a much better job than any top tuner even the ones I recommend to others. Your tuner will have no doubt tuned the fueling to a safe level so just work on the ignition. If then your fed up with trying to make it work by all means the 3071 or 3076 are the perfect choice. If I did it again it would be the 3076 just for the top end. I believe with the 3076 the difference in lag would be very little.

Stock standard R33 turbo for sale. Genuine 32,000k's. $250.

Exactly what I want very soon for my 3071 .82 garrett setup. Looks good and neat install. If you are experiencing unusual knock that can't be explained try changing to new coils.

So have a B-B-Que and show them what an Australia day is all about.

Everybody is right as this is the basics of turbo understanding. If this is a standard R33 then boost will increase a little if exhaust is changed yet other cars might not gain anything. How many times have we had a problem with rich and retard due to exhaust and intercooler being changed to a far more efficient type. An EBC will control that boost but that boost will still come on earlier due to less restriction. Lets face it, most manufactures use exhausts to limit boost or to pass EPA laws.