skylinecouple

0404081116 Luis @ drift garage. Give him a call. Top bloke.

Presses are cheap these days thanks to China. Get yourself one and you will be amazed at what a difference new suspension bushes make to your car. I will never forget the first time I replaced the rears with the Whiteline adjusting bushes and the front castor and camber bushes with same, sooooo much tighter and steered so much better. Then after the pineapple bushes in the squat position another level was reached. My goal now is to do all the bushes in urethane or Nismo rubber.

I am not one of their supporters, personal experience. In and out, exactly.

By having a 7lb spring and putting more turns into it to put more pressure on the waste gate flap, you simply shorten the actual length of the actuator rod. This will only give you a little more tension but will shorten the movement of the rod so that you may not get full waste gate opening. If you use a stronger spring in the first place the waste gate flap won't open 1mm till the spring tension is overcome. Thus you maintain your full rod length. ( Hey, rod length, we could all use some of that right ? ) Oh God, I'm funny. Anyway, enough silliness. Right tool for the right job, 14lb actuator for a 15lb boost level. Now where did I put that 22lb actuator ?

Watching !

Correctamundo. You guys have do what Nismoid just said and start using the right actuator for the boost your running. I can't tell you the problems you will solve and the solid control and spool you will have.

Hey Man good to see the old girl still running. It was because of you I went with the Garrett housing on my 3071. Yes, it's a .82 and I can assure you your problem has nothing to do with the actuator control. Nismoid was close on this one when he said wind in some more preload. I have to ask if you have a 14lb actuator or the 7lb. If it is a 14 then it should be ok. If not then that right there is the problem. Your compressor and therefore your engine is pushing enough boost through the waste gate flap to force it open. Stronger spring is required, simple. I had the same issue till I bought a 14lb actuator. I did that the second time I tuned it with the new setup and fixed it. A boost controller will only bleed air away from the actuator but it is the spring that controls the waste gate itself. Stronger spring, stronger waste gate control. You've got to love external waste gates for this very reason. Why do we continually use boost controllers when a spring will do the job better. All a boost controller dose is fine tune when the boost comes in and helps to stop spikes and such. If your running 15lbs then you need a 14lb actuator. If running 18lbs then get a 17lb actuator. Oh, and the diaphragms in these actuator things can start losing control after a time and thats another reason external is better but like you I like the stealth of an internal waste gate.

So much choice. Well, look at the bright side, 10 years ago things were mighty different. To3 or To4, take your pick. Hey Adrian, what mods have you got so far ? Your not planning on cams or going for a rebuild are you ?

Have to agree here. You would stick with the 555's if 300kws is where your headed but otherwise the 740's if your going for a monster that can't put the power to the ground anyway. 350kws or over is just stupid in a street car so decide now where your headed. Though 740's would come in handy should E85 make a big entrance to fueling in the future. 740's are a little more difficult to tune but if the tuner knows what he's doing should achieve a good result.

Have to agree, that looks a little old school and at 500hp rating isn't worth it. Still prefer the 3076 in anti surge configuration. The problem with these things is if nobody has tried it then what if you strap it on and it gives up the ghost at 250kws. Or ends up a laggy 3040 type turbo. That price looks a little high as suggested to, do yourself a favour and go to the ATP turbo site in the States. Got all my stuff there and is cheap. Then again, buy Australian and if you get it all from the one place maybe a discount is in order. As I said in my PM Adrian, just go with the .82 exhaust option and if you try this turbo, who knows, it may work out. I am not into external waste gates but then again as we've discussed the 63 housing with a 50mm waste gate should give you the best of both worlds. Still prefer the bigger housing though. Brett from GCG I believe.

Exactly the same. Only difference is the length of the tail pipe. Add 4cm to it and you'll be fine. If you don't be prepared to clean your rear bumper of soot and fuel every couple of days.

It's a shame you didn't do some research before you bought it. Haven't seen you on the forums before so I'll assume you didn't know what almost everybody else does, PFC is for manual only. You need to contact Toshi, do a search.

This may be a pain in the arse but take the bumper off if necessary and check every bloody clamp and feel how far the cooler pipes are in the connectors. Years ago I used to get people who were so called mechanics to install an intercooler and it's amazing how some of them are just useless and couldn't give a shit. After they bolt everything together you should double check every bolt and clamp. If the only thing you have changed is the cooler and you haven't upped the boost it will be the cooler or clamps or connectors. Logic.

Have almost the same setup at 264rwkws. Injectors are the go then increase boost. 18lbs would be the aim and I think your turbo will show what it's capable of. Interestingly, You have a Sard BOV when all indications are that the standard BOV is the best way to go. It has been proven time and time again standard BOV's work well. Is yours leaking ? Is there enough spring pressure ? Put the standard one on for next tune. I replaced all my clamps for the BOV and idle control with proper screw type clamps and noticed an improvement in holding boost. Especially the clamps from BOV to intake return. But if you haven't already bought the injectors get the 740's for future experimentation with E85. mmmmmmmmmmE85.

You wouldn't be the first person to start a business from a small project like this. I always like to see people having a go. Good on you. Let us know the end weight and photos of vent cutout then all painted up.

That's normal. The 2535 is really a small compressor in the grand scheme of things. The 3076 or HKS 3037 is where you start to see boost holding all the way to redline. My 3071 drops in the top end also as the comp gets a little asthmatic.

Absolutely. I buy parts like I buy my clothes, look at the stitching and quality of material and NOT the brand. And I just noticed he dropped the exhaust so that's not it. I would count the tubes and look inside to see how close the tubes are. If it's a bar and plate there is usually a 1cm gap between tubes, this is going to cause a little turbulence inside the cooler and a lack of tubes obviously will also restrict flow. Down side is you won't know what your looking at till you see a few different coolers. A tube and fin will have the tubes closer together and should be able to fit more tubes in the same size cooler. JustJap normally do bar and plate.

Sorry, have the old one, the JustJap one. This proved reliable enough as it is the model with the larger end tanks. Have to lose your driving lights though as is a little wide. Or you could trim them like I did. Luis mobile no. is 0404081116. You can find him in Ingleburn. He is a top bloke and excellent fabricator. The core I have is Hybrid. They would be good for a considerable amount of power. To be honest, I would look at exhaust size or dump, muffler, tune, boost controller or catalytic converter. May still be your cooler but check other things.

Oh, and I still have my old cooler here like new. Would suit anyone looking to upgrade.

Yes, same as HDI. You can see the size difference in the tubes. Very obvious. Even before boost it seemed smoother and crisper. Luis at Drift Garage did his after he drove mine and he said the same thing. Just generally better and obviously more power. I am not the only one though as others have noticed the Chinese cores are only good for 250-260rwkws. not that you couldn't make more power but certainly easier with the HDi or Hybrid. Speak to Luis at Drift Garage and he might be able to get a good deal from them as they are just around the corner.

I have the 3071 with .82 turbine housing by Garrett which is supposed to be very close to the 2835. I also had the JustJap cooler and by luck I came across a brand new Hybrid tube and fin so gave it a try. Got to say I felt the difference straight away. Crisper and more torque everywhere. I didn't dyno it alone as we did the turbo as well but didn't need to dyno to know there was a noticeable difference. I had the JustJap cooler for a few years and couldn't believe the crap that came out of it when it was flushed. Give yours a clean if it's been in a while. I'd still get the Hybrid though.

Weird. Oh wait, if water spins one way when it goes down the drain in the southern hemisphere and the opposite way in the northern hemisphere then it would seem logical CAS sensors would work the same way.

Mine's seven years old and still going strong. Easy to tune.

Actually, I would like to give that a go as I forgot to put the earth wire back on between the body and exhaust manifold once and could tell the car wasn't as smooth and seemed a little slower under 3,000rpm. Also just a little harder to start. So yeah, if anybody out there has back to back comparisons with a full earthing kit I'd like to know.

I put an R34 engine with the same CAS in my R33 and had to get auto elect to change a wire. Trouble is, can't remember exactly which one. I know a friends track car has the same setup as mine and his was done by Croydon Race Developments. Give them a call.